LP Refer mode/battery disconnect

docwade87 · 09-03-2019, 05:45 PM

I’ve been reading a bit throughout the forum, but can’t find exactly what I’m looking for...although I’m sure it’s out there and I probably haven’t read the right thread.

When stored in driveway, I keep it disconnected so that I don’t drain battery. The 2017 28 RLS X LITE cougar that I have has absolutely no power to anything except the lift when the disconnect is off. I know other campers/RVs lights and other things work even when disconnected. Not even my CO detector works when disconnect switch is off. When is the proper time to disconnect battery disconnect switch? Through reading I have realized that I need it on to make sure battery stays charged when towing, plugged in at campsite and if I plug in rig to house electrical (having electrician install a proper hookup for me soon.)

I have noticed that my fridge won’t cool when just on propane....do I need to have the battery disconnect on as well? I have put ice packs in fridge and freezer to get it a jump start and it doesn’t hold.

When it is plugged in, the fridge works like a charm.

Thanks for your help.

**JRTJH** · 09-03-2019, 06:05 PM

Yes, you must have 12 volt DC power to the refrigerator for any of the functions to operate. While the "burner heat" is provided by propane or by 120 VAC, the refrigerator control circuits are all 12 VDC. So, to even get the refrigerator to turn on, either the battery must be providing power to the 12 volt trailer system or the trailer must be plugged into shore power and the converter used to provide 12 VDC power.

docwade87 · 09-03-2019, 06:31 PM

Understood. My suspicions were correct. Thank you. It is now plugged into shore power at the house and the disconnect is on.

I will be leaving it offsite for two days where it won’t be plugged up while we go stay somewhere we can’t bring the camper during our upcoming trip. Will the battery last long enough to keep the refer running and our food cold? It is a brand new battery.

**JRTJH** · 09-03-2019, 06:40 PM

That depends on the size of the battery and the other loads within the trailer. You have a CO monitor, a LPG monitor, a TV amplifier, a thermostat, a LED backlight/memory circuit in the stereo in addition to the refrigerator.

If your battery is a GP27 or GP31 deep cycle battery you "should be" OK for a couple of days, provided everything else is turned off and the battery is fully charged. If you park the trailer, use the battery to unhitch from the tow vehicle, extend the slides, spend the night using a few lights, etc, then your battery is likely to be "nearly dead" before you ever leave for that couple of days. On the other hand, if you're in a campground with shore power, you can leave it connected to the campground power supply, just remember to turn off the water heater and disconnect (or turn off) the campground water supply to your city water connection. ALWAYS roll up your awning and make sure the trailer is secure before leaving for any extended time.

docwade87 · 09-03-2019, 06:46 PM

Ok. I’ll check size of battery. It will be hooked up while we stay at campground for one night prior to leaving it. Owner wanted us to pull it off site (assuming he won’t charge me) when we won’t be there until pick up two mornings later and we are back on the road and using it the rest of the trip. Everything will surely be secured as best as possible. I am OCD about securing my stuff all the time.

My TV amplifier in the bedroom I can turn off and on. Is there another one that I can’t get to I’m assuming?

**JRTJH** · 09-03-2019, 07:03 PM

No, there's only one TV amplifier, the one with the little green light on the Winegard amplifier plate.

docwade87 · 09-04-2019, 04:49 AM

Ok. That’s on my bedroom TV plug. I can turn that off when not in use luckily. That’s one thing down that wind be draining the battery.

docwade87 · 09-04-2019, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

That depends on the size of the battery and the other loads within the trailer. You have a CO monitor, a LPG monitor, a TV amplifier, a thermostat, a LED backlight/memory circuit in the stereo in addition to the refrigerator.

If your battery is a GP27 or GP31 deep cycle battery you "should be" OK for a couple of days, provided everything else is turned off and the battery is fully charged. If you park the trailer, use the battery to unhitch from the tow vehicle, extend the slides, spend the night using a few lights, etc, then your battery is likely to be "nearly dead" before you ever leave for that couple of days. On the other hand, if you're in a campground with shore power, you can leave it connected to the campground power supply, just remember to turn off the water heater and disconnect (or turn off) the campground water supply to your city water connection. ALWAYS roll up your awning and make sure the trailer is secure before leaving for any extended time.

My battery is a DP27 deep cycle....

**JRTJH** · 09-04-2019, 08:12 AM

IF (a best guess) the GP27 battery is in good condition, IF the battery is fully charged and IF there are no other significant drains on the battery, you SHOULD be able to operate the refrigerator for 48 hours without a problem.

That said, there are 3 "IF's" and a "SHOULD" in that statement.

You might want to try it in your yard for the next couple of days to see if it will work now... If it will, then it "should" be OK a couple weeks from now at the campground under similar conditions....

GOOD LUCK and let us know how it goes.....

docwade87 · 09-04-2019, 11:40 AM

Sounds good! The battery is brand new. Should be fully charged by now. Don’t have time to time trial it as we leave tomorrow. May choose to bring cold stuff with us or may chance it. Will let you know for sure. Thanks for your help!

**JRTJH** · 09-04-2019, 01:12 PM

Good Luck, keep us posted and enjoy your trip !!!!!

docwade87 · 09-08-2019, 06:00 PM

Trip was going well. Campground owner only charged us $15/night for complete hookup, and we were able to leave it on side and plugged up; therefore no issues with battery/power. Obviously we only initially were staying one night and then picking it up two days later. We got an unfortunate call that my father in-law passed unexpectedly Saturday morning. We went back to camper that evening, stayed the night and then headed home this morning.

On a side not and after reading some more, I think I’ve pushed the limits of my TV...especially in the mountains (got the big eye and excited when purchasing trailer and was looking at numbers uneducated). It did ok but definitely had to work harder. I use my manual transmission mode to help it out when towing and use the tow/haul feature. Have a decent hitch with sway bars. Aside from mountainous steep, switchback roads, the truck seems to handle very well with strength. I know I should post in another thread section but it was on my mind so I added it to here.

LHaven · 09-08-2019, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Yes, you must have 12 volt DC power to the refrigerator for any of the functions to operate. While the "burner heat" is provided by propane or by 120 VAC, the refrigerator control circuits are all 12 VDC. So, to even get the refrigerator to turn on, either the battery must be providing power to the 12 volt trailer system or the trailer must be plugged into shore power and the converter used to provide 12 VDC power.

Yeah, did we learn this the hard way.

On the return of a cross-country trip, we developed transmission problems in Deming. Dealer said it would take four days to fix, but we had to get back home to accommodate a rental guest. We left our trailer in a storage spot in a local park, making sure everything was inactive except the fridge, and drove a rental car home. We knew we had plenty of propane, but never realized the fridge required power as well.

The repair took twelve days instead of four. When we got back to our rig, the battery was long dead and the stench was eye-searing. We drove it home, then out to the end of our airstrip and threw the contents of the fridge and freezer out into the desert. Not even the coyotes would touch it. The vultures had a fiesta.

It took us months of careful washing, odor absorbers, crushed newspaper, and the like, to make the fridge habitable again.

**JRTJH** · 09-08-2019, 07:38 PM

LHaven,

Next time that happens (hopefully it never will) put a couple charcoal briquettes on a paper plate, cover the charcoal with about a half cup of fresh (never used or brewed) ground coffee and put it in the refrigerator after cleaning it well. In about 24 hours, all the "stench" should be gone....

LHaven · 09-08-2019, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

LHaven,

Next time that happens (hopefully it never will) put a couple charcoal briquettes on a paper plate, cover the charcoal with about a half cup of fresh (never used or brewed) ground coffee and put it in the refrigerator after cleaning it well. In about 24 hours, all the "stench" should be gone....

DW says she tried that remedy to no avail. Liquid from the thawed food had leaked through plastic overlap joints and gotten outside the freezer and fridge compartments proper but still inside the cabinetwork. It took time and almost a year of desert heat to sanitize our mess.

**JRTJH** · 09-08-2019, 08:47 PM

Yeah, coffee grounds won't work if they can't get in contact with the "stuff making the aroma"... Sort of like, "You can scrub the dog, but if he keeps going back to chase the skunk....." LOL

You may also like: