Raptor 21FB Motorcycle Loaded

Nailz · 10-28-2013, 09:35 AM

Just loaded my Raptor 21FB with my Goldwing.

Learned a lesson on the first try. Not a lesson you want to learn on a 900lb bike. I learned that the transition from the ramp into the trailer is too steep. On the first attempt, when the front wheel entered the trailer, the underbelly of the bike caught on the edge of the ramp door. Bent the belly pan that protects the bikes oil filter from road debris. After working to free the bike, while on it, the bike came loose from being caught and slid backwards down the ramp with the front brake locked. No harm done, other than the bent belly pan which I hammered back flat.

Second attempt. I analyzed the problem and found an inexpensive interim solution. I found a set of plastic automotive ramps at WalMart for $45. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-F3...-Ramp/27966416. I used a piece of 3/4 marine plywood that I had. I used the tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue to its highest point. Then I placed the automotive ramps under the end of the trailer ramp on either side of the center rubber bumper. I then cut the plywood so that it was long enough to go from the end of the automotive ramps up onto the trailer ramp. This kept the plywood fully supported by the automotive ramps from the ground to the trailer ramp. This solution reduced the angle of the transition from the ramp into the trailer and allowed me room to keep my feet down to support the bike as I go up the ramp.

It is a bit of a pain to set all this up but allows me too safely load and unload my bike in the interim. Hope this helps someone else skip the first attempt lesson.

Ratchet Thunderbolt · 10-31-2013, 08:07 AM

Great post and pictures. You came up with a method that safely works, good job.

I am contemplating installing a 110 volt 1000lb warn winch in my hauler. You could sit on your bike with the control for the winch in your hand and pull you and the bike into the garage. I love having my bike in the back and pulling it out for day trips.

flyinguy68 · 10-31-2013, 08:00 PM

Great solution! I don't have any experience with the G-Wing, but a not so nice lesson I learned (FYI). The brakes on my BMW don't work if the engine is off. I now know not to back the bike down the ramp unless it is running

joestaz · 11-02-2013, 04:41 AM

Good post. What I have learned to do when backing the bike out of the RV is to keep the bike in gear and pull the clutch while backing out a little at a time. Of course with the engine not running. Works better then the front brake locking up and sliding down the ramp. Just my way of doing it.

tmm2good · 11-03-2013, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joestaz

Good post. What I have learned to do when backing the bike out of the RV is to keep the bike in gear and pull the clutch while backing out a little at a time. Of course with the engine not running. Works better then the front brake locking up and sliding down the ramp. Just my way of doing it.

This is what I do , except I leave the engine running. I feel it gives me a little more control. Slid the front tire down the ramp a few times locked up. A little scary.

LittleJoe · 11-03-2013, 04:28 PM

You can add 4or 5 feet to the ramp using a full length hinge and flip the added on part over.

See 325SRX door for a better idea.

abneynormal · 11-03-2013, 05:48 PM

we fit our 3912 with a 18 inch piece of plywood and long hinges. now to back mine out I use the clutch. I put it in gear(engine turned off) and ease it down the ramp backwards. it was easier than fabricating a hand brake.

Nailz · 11-04-2013, 05:50 AM

Ratchet

That sounds like a good idea. Be careful what you attach the winch too. After drilling one hole in the floor of my trailer and finding very thin plywood and styrofoam I chose to move the location of my tire chock to a place that I could drill down into the steel frame.

Nailz · 11-04-2013, 05:54 AM

Flyinguy68

Wow, no brakes without the engine running? Do you have ABS? My GW is not the ABS version and the brakes work whether the engine is running or not. If I didn't have brakes on a loading ramp, that would be an eye popping moment!

Nailz · 11-04-2013, 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joestaz

Good post. What I have learned to do when backing the bike out of the RV is to keep the bike in gear and pull the clutch while backing out a little at a time. Of course with the engine not running. Works better then the front brake locking up and sliding down the ramp. Just my way of doing it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmm2good

This is what I do , except I leave the engine running. I feel it gives me a little more control. Slid the front tire down the ramp a few times locked up. A little scary.

Good tips! I tried this when I unloaded the bike and it worked great. Thanks.

Curtis

Nailz · 11-04-2013, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LittleJoe

You can add 4or 5 feet to the ramp using a full length hinge and flip the added on part over.

See 325SRX door for a better idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by abneynormal

we fit our 3912 with a 18 inch piece of plywood and long hinges. now to back mine out I use the clutch. I put it in gear(engine turned off) and ease it down the ramp backwards. it was easier than fabricating a hand brake.

This is kinda what I intend to do, but my problem is the angle at the top of the ramp into the trailer. So I need to add to the ramp as you describe, but also need to raise the bottom of the ramp to decrease the transition angle at the top. I was thinking of fabricating, with some assistance, an aluminum ramp with piano hinge and 1" square tube reinforcing frame. I still need to come up with a method of raising the height of the ramp 6-8" that folds into or secures to the newly fabricated ramp extension. Just another fun project

FTWingRiders · 11-04-2013, 06:16 PM

tho purely unintentional in our decision on which toy hauler to get, (weight was my first concern), I'm very thankful my 325SRX has the dual hinged ramp. I also load a gold wing, and being able to reduce the angles help immensely!!
The SRX has 2 removable feet, that are adjustable, which allows me to adjust the angle as needed. My only mod was to cut a 2x6x8 in half for the lower ramp which lets me keep my feet planted. Works great! I also find using the reverse allows me to really control backing the big girl down!

This was my wife and mine first trip with the new rig up to Acadia National Park in Maine this year. The whole rig worked perfect without a hitch!!

Darn, the rig is all tucked away for the season, and looking at the pics REALLY makes me wish for one more trip!!

Nailz · 11-07-2013, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FTWingRiders

tho purely unintentional in our decision on which toy hauler to get, (weight was my first concern), I'm very thankful my 325SRX has the dual hinged ramp. I also load a gold wing, and being able to reduce the angles help immensely!!
The SRX has 2 removable feet, that are adjustable, which allows me to adjust the angle as needed. My only mod was to cut a 2x6x8 in half for the lower ramp which lets me keep my feet planted. Works great! I also find using the reverse allows me to really control backing the big girl down!

This was my wife and mine first trip with the new rig up to Acadia National Park in Maine this year. The whole rig worked perfect without a hitch!!

Darn, the rig is all tucked away for the season, and looking at the pics REALLY makes me wish for one more trip!!

FTWingRiders,

This is very interesting. I have a bunch of questions, hope you don't mind. Did this setup come this way from the factory? What material is the second folding ramp that touches the ground made of? Do you know who manufactures the legs?

Great looking setup!

Essness · 11-07-2013, 03:26 PM

Another thing to consider, I raise the power jack on the front of the trailer. It lowers the back and reduces the angle.

Nailz · 11-07-2013, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Essness

Another thing to consider, I raise the power jack on the front of the trailer. It lowers the back and reduces the angle.

Absolutely, did that too. It does become a pain though. Unhook the trailer before heading to the campsite. Unload the bike. Re-hook the trailer, proceed to campsite. Wash, rinse, repeat on leaving the campground.

It will be much easier when I can remove this step.

Curtis

Essness · 11-07-2013, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nailz

Absolutely, did that too. It does become a pain though. Unhook the trailer before heading to the campsite. Unload the bike. Re-hook the trailer, proceed to campsite. Wash, rinse, repeat on leaving the campground.

It will be much easier when I can remove this step.

Curtis

I leave it hooked. My road cart can only clear about 4 inches.

Adventurider · 11-07-2013, 04:53 PM

Or just keep a set of heavy duty car ramps handy, drive the rear wheels of the truck up them.

FTWingRiders · 11-07-2013, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nailz

FTWingRiders,

This is very interesting. I have a bunch of questions, hope you don't mind. Did this setup come this way from the factory? What material is the second folding ramp that touches the ground made of? Do you know who manufactures the legs?

Great looking setup!

Thanks!! Ask away, tho I don't have a lot of answers. This is how it came from the factory.. minus the 2x6's..LOL!! The SRX has a smaller door and garage, and is really only meant for a single full size bike, or two smaller bikes. I had to do some careful measuring for the condor chock, I only have a few inches all around the gold wing.

The second folding ramp seems to be the same as the main ramp, minus the outer skin. My guess is plywood,(?) but totally wrapped front and back with a heavy duty rubber non-slip surface. The small ramp did flex a bit more with the big wing on there, the main ramp was solid. Maybe the skin and aluminum frame adds some strength. The Camper isn't here right now, its on a storage lot while the barn it's going to call home is being built, but I don't recall a mfg name on them. Maybe someone who's camper is more accessible could make sure. They're mounted to brackets on the folding ramp with pins, and I remove them while traveling.

Forrest

Big Boy w/ Big Toys · 11-07-2013, 08:06 PM

An easy way to bring the angle of your load door down is put your trailer leveling blocks under the rear wheels of your tow vehicle to drive up on or try finding a place where you can drop the front of the truck into a ditch or over a hill. U would be surprised at how much a 6 inch block under the tires can make on ramp angle.

Locowrench · 11-09-2013, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adventurider

Or just keep a set of heavy duty car ramps handy, drive the rear wheels of the truck up them.

That is what I did with my last trailer. Differences were that the trailer had no dove tail and the bike was a 1500 Goldwing which has better ground clearance. I know because I have both now. I had a set of steel ramps that I used at first but one of them gave up. Then I went with a set like the OP bought from Walmart and that problem was solved. I had hoped that with my new trailer I could do it without using ramps. I think with the shocks adjusted all the way up the 1800 should go right in.

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