Parts needed

[TheStatelineATV]

06-7 raptor 3712.
12?gal boiler. Propane electric valve...
I don't know how these parts are called but I'm looking for some rebuild kits if any available.? I'm not in a hurry to buy new boiler, I rather replace some parts to have it working properly ... part on picture is bad need to be replaced, and the metal rod that goes inside with rubber gasket and spring, not sure if need to replaced, but rather put new rubbers while I'm there... enyone has gooduck finding parts/rebuild kits? TIA.

[flybouy]

That looks like the gas valve coil. You're going to need a make and model number to get the part.

[John&Genny]

Originally Posted by TheStatelineATV

06-7 raptor 3712.
12?gal boiler. Propane electric valve...
I don't know how these parts are called but I'm looking for some rebuild kits if any available.? I'm not in a hurry to buy new boiler, I rather replace some parts to have it working properly ... part on picture is bad need to be replaced, and the metal rod that goes inside with rubber gasket and spring, not sure if need to replaced, but rather put new rubbers while I'm there... enyone has gooduck finding parts/rebuild kits? TIA.
Attachment 35051

Although some people here like Chuckster might be able to just look at the part and tell you what you need to know, you are usually much better off if you can provide more information. For example, is the hot water heater a Atwood, Dometic, or ??? If there is a label inside, is their a model number shown? On the picture you show, there is number of either C6127 or 06127. Were there any other numbers imprinted on the part? The more information you can provide, the more likely we can help you.

[notanlines]

See if any of these look likely:
https://www.google.com/search?q=gas+...WegCcwQ4dUDCA4
On edit: To bolster Chuckster's statement below, I would not rebuild anything in a water heater.

[chuckster57]

I would get a whole new gas valve.

[TheStatelineATV]

Suburban manufacturing.co.
More info in picture.

[TheStatelineATV]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I would get a whole new gas valve.

Probably I end up getting new valve, but I wonder if there is a website for RV parts that I could order from...

[chuckster57]

Amazon has them for about $50.00

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I would get a whole new gas valve.

I agree 100% the only time I’d consider replacing the coil is if it was a momentary short that happened while I was working on it and I knew that was the only problem.
Gas valves are cheap and it’s not something that you want to try and save pennys on.
Things that can go boom are not where I try and save a buck.
Are you sure the gas valve is not just stuck and the coil is fine? (Don’t try and unstuck it ) you could end up with a gas valve that does not fully close and “passes gas” into the burner box

Either way it needs to be replaced.
I am a licensed gas fitter in natural and lp gases as well

[JRTJH]

I agree with all that have suggested replacing the entire gas valve assembly. Taking apart a "sealed LP/NG valve to rebuild it sets up a significant risk of having a leaking gas valve inside an RV that is often used far from any fire department response in a trailer that usually has people sleeping directly over the water heater.

THIS IS NOT A PLACE TO TRY TO SAVE A FEW DOLLARS !!!!!

Replace the entire gas valve assembly !!!!!

[jim1]

Hi, I had an issue with the water heater not firing up on propane. You could hear the solenoids clicking but apparently weren't opening. I replaced the gas valve and everything is working great (knock on wood). And since I can't leave things alone I tore the old valve apart and cleaned the plungers on the solenoids and tested them, re-installed it on the water heater worked, like brand new. But because it is a gas valve that could cause a fire or lots of damage I removed it and put the new one back on. I know, but I really had nothing better to do other than find out why and how it ticks. But for sure put a new valve on it's the safest and only way to go.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by jim1

Hi, I had an issue with the water heater not firing up on propane. You could hear the solenoids clicking but apparently weren't opening. I replaced the gas valve and everything is working great (knock on wood). And since I can't leave things alone I tore the old valve apart and cleaned the plungers on the solenoids and tested them, re-installed it on the water heater worked, like brand new. But because it is a gas valve that could cause a fire or lots of damage I removed it and put the new one back on. I know, but I really had nothing better to do other than find out why and how it ticks. But for sure put a new valve on it's the safest and only way to go.

I'm a "tinkerer" too. It's hard to resist not "trying to outsmart or outfix the manufacturer"... I can't begin to count the number of "old 8 transistor radios", TV's, Stereos, hand mixers, blenders, toasters, even Timex watches (when they were the kind that "keeps on ticking" that I took apart, "fixed" and tried to put back together. Sometimes they worked perfectly, sometimes I had a couple of "extra parts" and sometimes I got them apart, "fixed" and put them back together and they worked for a couple of minutes or so, then "BOOM" either the smoke escaped or the Timex stopped ticking.....

On an item with "severe consequences if it fails" like you, I want to fix it, but the 'better part of valor' tells me that even if it works, it may not be the best choice to rely on it in a "life/death" situation.

[TheStatelineATV]

Thanks . Ordered complete new valve.
Now next part needed [or not?] is fridge main board [or something else?]... Sizors/players on picture aint my magic... bought it this way....front panel , led code 5blinks every 3sec.? Bypass 110V work. Propane doesn't work... any clues where to start? TIA.