Please Help, Water Line Issues

Nomadicchefs · 05-01-2018, 03:11 AM

After a day at our new site, the lines under the kitchen sink are leaking at the faucet connections. When running water elsewhere, the leak will stop for several hours before returning full force. When I flush the toilet, it squeals in the kitchen lines. I do have a pressure regulator on the hose, but I can't think of any reason why these leaks have started all of a sudden. We've been fulltiming for 8 months now and have had no issues with the water lines. Is it possible the cinch clamps are just worn out? Or am I having pressure issues? There are no leaks anywhere else.

gearhead · 05-01-2018, 03:17 AM

Might try getting one of the brass, adjustable regulators that has a pressure gauge on it. You could see how much pressure you actually have.

Nomadicchefs · 05-01-2018, 05:39 PM

None of those are available in the area we are in. I got 2 brass camco regulators and put one at the city water connect and one right before my water filter. No leaks for a while, then it started again. Much slower but still leaking. I'm going to bite the bullet and call the mobile rv repair.

ChuckS · 05-01-2018, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomadicchefs

None of those are available in the area we are in. I got 2 brass camco regulators and put one at the city water connect and one right before my water filter. No leaks for a while, then it started again. Much slower but still leaking. I'm going to bite the bullet and call the mobile rv repair.

If the leaks are way up at the top of the faucet and it’s a standard RV style faucet the copper lines for hot and cold where they merge into the faucet fixture are prone to fail and leak. They are pressed in lines

We had one start leaking and had to disconnect below and cap lines till I could get to a Home Depot and buy a regular house fixture.

Nomadicchefs · 05-02-2018, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckS

If the leaks are way up at the top of the faucet and it’s a standard RV style faucet the copper lines for hot and cold where they merge into the faucet fixture are prone to fail and leak. They are pressed in lines

We had one start leaking and had to disconnect below and cap lines till I could get to a Home Depot and buy a regular house fixture.

Ours are plastic connections and plastic faucet bottoms.

ChuckS · 05-02-2018, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomadicchefs

Ours are plastic connections and plastic faucet bottoms.

Looking at your setup if it’s not leaking at the PEX crimps then I’d turn off water and bleed pressure by opening faucets

Then I’d remove each line up top and wrap a few turns of Teflon tape around each faucet threaded fitting and reinstall lines and turn water in and check for leaks

Nomadicchefs · 05-02-2018, 03:25 PM

I'll try that, thanks.

LabRat · 05-02-2018, 03:50 PM

I think it has to do with water pressure and possibly coupled with a loose fitting. The main clue is that the problem goes away when you use water which reduces the pressure. The regulator you are using maybe allowing the pressure in the lines to slowly creep up when there is now water usage. It is had to tell without a pressure gauge.

Nomadicchefs · 05-02-2018, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LabRat

I think it has to do with water pressure and possibly coupled with a loose fitting. The main clue is that the problem goes away when you use water which reduces the pressure. The regulator you are using maybe allowing the pressure in the lines to slowly creep up when there is now water usage. It is had to tell without a pressure gauge.

We had one and it broke, now all we have are the standard 40/50 psi regulator from camco. All the small spots here only offer the standard, no gauge or adjustable regulators anywhere. I have 2 on the line now. I will try the wrap and see how that works.

**sourdough** · 05-02-2018, 06:23 PM

If you are running the Camco little pressure regulators I doubt that you have a problem with them letting too much pressure in. The ones I used (several) made sure my pressure was way low. Without a gauge though you don't know.

**JRTJH** · 05-02-2018, 06:27 PM

Have you considered, as a temporary measure, to just use the onboard water pump rather than the city water connection? Just refill the fresh water tank as needed and eliminate the potential for leaks and water damage from them. Then, as you get time, troubleshoot until you find the fix, buy a better regulator and/or whatever the fix may be. In the mean time, with the onboard water pump, no leaks and no potential damage to the RV.

ChuckS · 05-03-2018, 04:13 PM

Also another suggestion... when you leave the RV get in the habit of turning off the city water and/or pump is using that ...

If you get into this routine you will never come back to a flooded RV

Billiejoebob · 05-04-2018, 01:42 AM

My 2007!Hideaway has no water pressure. Checked source & bought new hose, still no pressure. Suggestions

ctbruce · 05-04-2018, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billiejoebob

My 2007!Hideaway has no water pressure. Checked source & bought new hose, still no pressure. Suggestions

Did it before? Is this a new to you trailer or have you had it a while?

Nomadicchefs · 05-04-2018, 06:24 AM

We drove a ways and got an adjustable gauge. The pressure is at 40psi. The camper went an entire night and day with no leaks at the kitchen faucets, then after my husband took a shower, they began leaking again. I took them apart and put thread tape on them and am testing it now. I'd rather do it myself than pay $75 for the tech to come to the rv, plus labor over $100/hr.

**chuckster57** · 05-04-2018, 06:36 AM

If you take the pex line off you will see cone washers in the fitting. Often times they are the reason for your leak. They are about 20 cents and easy to replace. I don’t use Teflon tape, but have changed out too many washers to count.

Nomadicchefs · 05-04-2018, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If you take the pex line off you will see cone washers in the fitting. Often times they are the reason for your leak. They are about 20 cents and easy to replace. I don’t use Teflon tape, but have changed out too many washers to count.

If this test fails, my next move will be the washers. I didn't notice them when I had the line apart, but I'll check if I have to take them apart again. Thanks

art1046 · 05-15-2018, 04:47 PM

You can get a pressure gauge for standard hose and install after the RV pressure gauge to check psi entering RV.

rdhouston · 05-16-2018, 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckS

Also another suggestion... when you leave the RV get in the habit of turning off the city water and/or pump is using that ...

If you get into this routine you will never come back to a flooded RV

I always do this and gas too.

**flybouy** · 05-16-2018, 06:28 AM

You may consider a gauge like this... https://www.amazon.com/LDR-020-9645-...pressure+gauge
I use a hose "Y" connection with a gauge like this on one fitting. The red pointer sets to zero and when the water is turned on it will stay at the highest reading. I have found cg's where water pressure drops off during usage then on week days and during the night the pressure will increase dramatically. This often occurs where the cg has a well and the pump has insufficient flow to meet the demand. The cg will crank up the pressure to attempt to compensate. I have looked at this guage in the a.m. and found the pressure as much as doubled during the night.
When you connect your regulator you should adjust it by reducing the pressure (typically counter clockwise on the adjustment screw) until the pressure begins to drop, the crank it the opposite direction until the pressure stabilizes. If you continue to adjust it farther you will not a true regulation as the adjustment would be for a higher pressure than is currently available and it will increase if the line pressure increases.
Hope this makes sense and helps.

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