Plugging in at home

[flybouy]

Vinnie I don't think anyone thinks that you are a "moron". From your OP it appears to me that you are not proficient in electrical wiring and connections. I have no objections to someone learning and DYIng a project to save money but working with electricity can be deadly.

If you want the factors that convinced me to say get an electrician I'll lay them out for you.

1. From for photo whomever wired that outlet had no clue how to do it and it is very unsafe.
2. I have no idea who wired that outlet so I can't state that the panel or anything else is wired correctly. So it needs someone familiar with how it SHOULD be wired to look at it and take a few readings to ensure that the panel is wired correctly. The feed to that panel also need to be confirmed. Does this "shed out in the north forty" have it's own drop from the utility pole and meter? Is that shed powered from the panel inside the house? If it's from the house then it's a sub panel so what size breaker is feeding the sub panel, how far away from the house and what size wire?
3. You asked for a wiring diagram and "thought" the existing plug was incorrect. That makes me "think" you might be in over your head. There's a lot more to it than just replacing the outlet you have with a different outlet.

If you're angry at me for stating this that's fine. I'd rather you be POd at me than to have just send you a diagram and learn later that you had burned your hands beyond use or worse because you took the diagram and things went wrong.

[Camping family]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

Before I call the electrician, I think I can puzzle this one out with a bit of guidance. There's a decent shed in my back forty with a 50amp plug inside, but I'm fairly sure it's the wrong kind, and certainly not grounded as required for the RV. I think I can just put the correct kind of receptacle on, and with a long enough extension cord (which will be more than 50' if that's not going to create a rift in space-time), I can get the rig plugged in for full parked functionality. Do I just get a plug that matches the shore power configuration, with a matching extension cord(s)?

Ideally, for now, I just want to charge the crappy compact car battery the dealer installed, operate the jacks and slides, and use some tools while we prep it for travel.

Attached pic- front and back of the existing plug, and the breaker box. Circled breakers are dual-30amp- is that the configuration I want to see for a usable shore plugin?

Bonus question: there has to be a better option than that dinky car battery for house power. I saw in another thread somebody mention dual 6v batteries. Is that good without solar, and please show me an example wiring diagram so I can get them installed myself.

Bonus bonus: it's bad to just leave it plugged in for months, right?

Thanks!

I just finished mine. You will need number 6 wire a 50 amp breaker and a rv plug. I purchased a box that came with the 50 amp plug. The plug is marked for where each wire connects to. If you are not confident in doing it yourself hire someone. Wiring it wrong can burn up some of you appliances. If you purchase the material from an electrical shop should be able to get an electrician to hook it up for around 100-150. Good luck stay safe and enjoy your camper.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

You're trolling me, right? Don't know that I could have explained any more clearly that I'm NOT PLANNING TO USE THE PICTURED PLUG FOR ANYTHING, EVER.

Using dogbones to reduce to a regular old residential typical every day plug, and plug into a regular old every day residential outlet, just to charge the battery which is dead as a doornail, is ok, right? I'm not going to create a black hole and suck half of Tennessee into it just to get my slides out once in a while, yeah?

I am not/was not trolling you. I was still unclear on what you planned to wire from where and how you were going to extend that service. My only concern is your safety and eliminating the possibility of damage to your RV. I have seen some crazy homemade wiring that would make your hair curl....literally and figuratively - my dad was one of the best.

Be aware that although the plan is to just keep the batteries charged, when you get all the way out to the trailer it is going to be tempting to turn on stuff; that's when that long cord with small gauge wiring will bite you. Again, not trying to troll or be simplistic; just want you to be careful - I've seen the terminal effects of power play out in front of me.

[Vinnie]

Thank you all!

The shed (which will eventually be removed in favor of a much larger barn) has it's own utility drop and meter. It's just too small and poorly placed for me to get the RV any closer to it than about 65'. I'm considering building a drive-thorough style barn, but that may be too tough considering some tight turns and the amount of trailer axle cheat I'd have to overcome, but that's another problem for another day. I'm totally putting a full-function RV box in there, however, when I build it.

For now, I'm gonna forget I ever saw that janky old dryer plug and see if there's any 20A outlets in there, and get a 20A extension cord as was recommended. I'll hunt down some useful golf cart batteries and run what I need to run off DC only. Shouldn't need to run AC or water at all any time soon, and if I need my plug-in tools, they can use their own extension cord.

[Vinnie]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Vinnie, your "I'm not going to create a black hole and suck half of Tennessee into it"hopefully isn't true. Having lived here for more than 50 years I can furnish you an entire list of places to start. Can you start with the Shelby County Clerks Office and head to the tax assessor?

Sadly, not close enough- I'd have to reach it all the way from the part of Williamson County that's still "holler." Gotta get back out your way at some point; one of our favorite spots we overnighted was Tom Sawyer just on the other side of the river. Sat out on the banks and watched the tugs (and the ghetto birds) all night.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

Sadly, not close enough- I'd have to reach it all the way from the part of Williamson County that's still "holler." Gotta get back out your way at some point; one of our favorite spots we overnighted was Tom Sawyer just on the other side of the river. Sat out on the banks and watched the tugs (and the ghetto birds) all night.

We stayed at Tom Sawyer a few years ago. After crossing over the levey and down the rough gravel road I wondered what I had gotten into. But rounding the bend into the CG we were in the "up river" side of the CG and really liked the site.

[Vinnie]

Yeah those roads were kinda sketchy, and going past that fuel storage facility makes you wonder for a second

[sonofcy]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

Before I call the electrician, I think I can puzzle this one out with a bit of guidance. There's a decent shed in my back forty with a 50amp plug inside, but I'm fairly sure it's the wrong kind, and certainly not grounded as required for the RV. I think I can just put the correct kind of receptacle on, and with a long enough extension cord (which will be more than 50' if that's not going to create a rift in space-time), I can get the rig plugged in for full parked functionality. Do I just get a plug that matches the shore power configuration, with a matching extension cord(s)?

Ideally, for now, I just want to charge the crappy compact car battery the dealer installed, operate the jacks and slides, and use some tools while we prep it for travel.

Attached pic- front and back of the existing plug, and the breaker box. Circled breakers are dual-30amp- is that the configuration I want to see for a usable shore plugin?

Bonus question: there has to be a better option than that dinky car battery for house power. I saw in another thread somebody mention dual 6v batteries. Is that good without solar, and please show me an example wiring diagram so I can get them installed myself.

Bonus bonus: it's bad to just leave it plugged in for months, right?

Thanks!

That isn't what you want. Not real sure what the 4 breakers are doing but the wires are really small. Get an electrician and 50' 50A RV extension cord.
I am a retired electrician by the way.

[rjniles]

That is a NEMA 6-50 receptacle but it is wired wrong. It is supposed to be a wired as straight 240 volt grounded receptacle but someone has wired a neutral to the ground pin.

A 50 amp RV requires a NEMA 14-50 receptacle (same as an electric kitchen stove). The wire size is too small for 50 amps, I suspect it is #10 since they used a 30 amp breaker.

[Mikelff]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

Before I call the electrician, I think I can puzzle this one out with a bit of guidance. There's a decent shed in my back forty with a 50amp plug inside, but I'm fairly sure it's the wrong kind, and certainly not grounded as required for the RV. I think I can just put the correct kind of receptacle on, and with a long enough extension cord (which will be more than 50' if that's not going to create a rift in space-time), I can get the rig plugged in for full parked functionality. Do I just get a plug that matches the shore power configuration, with a matching extension cord(s)?

Ideally, for now, I just want to charge the crappy compact car battery the dealer installed, operate the jacks and slides, and use some tools while we prep it for travel.

Attached pic- front and back of the existing plug, and the breaker box. Circled breakers are dual-30amp- is that the configuration I want to see for a usable shore plugin?

Bonus question: there has to be a better option than that dinky car battery for house power. I saw in another thread somebody mention dual 6v batteries. Is that good without solar, and please show me an example wiring diagram so I can get them installed myself.

Bonus bonus: it's bad to just leave it plugged in for months, right?

Thanks!

Vinnie, if all you want is to keep your new batteries charged (two 6v) all you need is a grounded 15 or 20 amp plug, extension cord, and battery charger with an automatic trickle charge feature. If you have fully charged batteries, it will operate your slides, and jacks, and 12v trailer system just fine. Just use one at a time. If you want a 50 amp line for your trailer You might consider the RV box in this thread near your trailer for a permanent hook up. Good luck!

[dutchmensport]

[QUOTE=Vinnie;421444]...

Ideally, for now, I just want to charge the crappy compact car battery the dealer installed, operate the jacks and slides, and use some tools while we prep it for travel.

... /QUOTE]

Vinnie, if this is really all you want to do at the moment, until you can get your new shed/barn built, they you can plug into a standard 20 amp receptacle with a step up to a 30 amp and then another step up to a 50 amp, plug in and forget it. The trailer will only have 20 amps available, but that will be enough to power the converter which will keep the battery charged. In addition, you'll be able to watch a television, and turn on house lights (that actually run off the battery. You can probably leave your refrigerator turned on, switched over to electric too with no problems if you want to keep stuff in the freezer awhile.

You can run a hundred feet of heavy duty carpenter's electric extension cord (a heavy one) and plug the step-up adapters there and things will still work just fine. You'll have more than adequate power to operate slides and any appliance, as long as you don't exceed the 20 available amps. If you do, you'll just pop the 20 amp breaker at the box. Nothing lost.

If simplicity is what you are looking for, I suggest going this route and then when you rebuild a new shed/barn, have it wired for a 50 amp RV box.

For years and years, we powered our 30 amp travel trailers at home with just one of those el-cheap-o orange 100 foot extension cord. Never had a problem, but we never ran more than a television. Batteries always charged. We did this in 3 different travel trailers. Simple solution for an immediate need.

[Todd727]

Vinnie,

You need a 14-50R receptacle, replace the 30 amp breaker with a 50 and replace the wiring with 8 AWG. Wire it up like the top half of post 11 and you will be set.

[jimborokz]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

Thank you all!

The shed (which will eventually be removed in favor of a much larger barn) has it's own utility drop and meter. It's just too small and poorly placed for me to get the RV any closer to it than about 65'. I'm considering building a drive-thorough style barn, but that may be too tough considering some tight turns and the amount of trailer axle cheat I'd have to overcome, but that's another problem for another day. I'm totally putting a full-function RV box in there, however, when I build it.

For now, I'm gonna forget I ever saw that janky old dryer plug and see if there's any 20A outlets in there, and get a 20A extension cord as was recommended. I'll hunt down some useful golf cart batteries and run what I need to run off DC only. Shouldn't need to run AC or water at all any time soon, and if I need my plug-in tools, they can use their own extension cord.

Looks like you've puzzled it out correctly. Just make sure your extension is at least 12ga wire. I keep ours plugged into a 20A outlet all summer to keep the batteries up and lighting. I even run our heat pump on a/c w/o tripping the breaker as it only draws 14A.
I had some questions when I saw the box had 200A main breaker but you answered them when you said the shed had it's own drop. I'm guessing that plug was for a welder and even though it is 50A it was only on a 30A breaker so was limited to that. Contrary to some of the comments I think you know what you're doing which of course is why you questioned that whole outlet. Certainly the wire ga is too light but of course you will change all that with the new barn.
Know what you mean about RV maneuvering. I'd love to have a pull thru barn but need 40 acres to turn that rig around. Show pictures when you build that barn along with the trailer sitting inside.
good luck with all.
Jim

[Vinnie]

Thanks folks! Gotta find me a reputable and reliable barn builder now.