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Old 11-12-2020, 09:24 AM   #1
STJ
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Leveling issues

I mounted this leveler normally see on 5th wheel campers to the jack it bike rack mount on the tongue of my Keystone Outback 301UBH.
I am haveing problems with camper not being level after I unhook it.
Ian wondering if the weight distribution system is causing the tongue to twist when the truck isn’t level.
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:44 AM   #2
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Several probabilities come to mind:

1. That trailer is an "ultra-lite" class (lightweight frame members)
2. It has a BAL Powder coated NXG frame, which is a "bolt together, stamped steel frame. It's not known for "rigidity" but rather its "claim to fame" is being "as light as possible while providing reasonable rigidity"...
3. On most trailers with a single slide, if the trailer is leveled with the slide retracted, once the slide is extended, the trailer will "lean to the heavy side". On "ultra-light trailers" that "lean" is even more pronounced.

Looking at the specs for your trailer, it's nearly 35' long, weighs in (empty) at around 7100 pounds, so even though it's "heavy", it's built with "lighter than usual components" so the factory can add things like 50" TV's, two bathrooms and other things that the "buying public will find irresistible".

So, if you're leveling your trailer with the slide in, then it's "heavy on the slide side" when you extend it, you might consider "compensating for the slide" by "leveling it slightly "slide side high" so when you do extend the slide, the trailer is closer to level.... I do that with my Cougar XLite as a matter of setup.
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Old 11-12-2020, 12:42 PM   #3
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Good advice. So I still think I have a problem weight distribution bars twisting the front of the trailer slightly when the truck is not on the same level as the trailer. So I think the thing to do is get the trailer level like I want with the slide out. Then pull the slide in and then set the bubble to zero. If I still have problems not being level after The truck is disconnected maybe I will try moving the level system to the body of the camper
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Old 11-12-2020, 02:27 PM   #4
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Does it feel un-level or is it just the bubble telling you its not level?
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Old 11-12-2020, 03:33 PM   #5
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The trailer is not level, the Doors on the transverse cabinets and the transverse pocket doors close them selves. Double checked with a 2 foot level on the main floor and countertops.
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Old 11-12-2020, 04:08 PM   #6
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I would refrain from leveling at the very end of the hitch like that, especially on the jack. I believe that frame twist from the weight distribution could indeed be a factor, as well as movement of the jack when it is lowered and takes a load. If you need to use that bubble level, mount it to the front wall of the trailer instead.

I use a LevelMate Pro which is mounted high inside the entertainment center running side to side at the foot of the front queen bed. I like it because I know the driver’s side of the trailer drops up to a 1/2” once the slide goes out. So when I am leveling, I always unhook with that side a little high to account for the settling. It might be overkill for some, but I like knowing I am as level as I reasonably can be.
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:26 PM   #7
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Levelmate looks like a very good investment
Thanks
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Old 11-12-2020, 06:45 PM   #8
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With that NORCO frame, twisting is going to be an issue. If you believe the WD bars may be "torquing the A frame" then release them as you're backing into a campsite. That would eliminate any torque from the WD system. Even with that done, you're still going to have some significant "lean" from extending the slides. We have a 30' fifth wheel with two slides on the roadside. If I set the trailer level, then extend the slides, I get about a 1" drop at the trailer sidewall. So, I just park the trailer about 1" high on the roadside, disconnect and extend the slides, that puts the trailer "very close every time". Then I set the stabilizers and can push either side up just a tad if needed. Usually, it's not a problem.

As said, your A frame is likely to be twisting between the ball and the first crossmember under the front of the trailer. Anything mounted to the A frame wilL 'measure the twist" and moving your bubble level to the trailer nose cap would eliminate that twist.
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Old 11-13-2020, 06:33 PM   #9
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Levelmate looks like a very good investment
Thanks
I can second and third the LevelMate. I love it. One of the best investments we made. Able to get nearly perfect, quickly. But I don't have the slide issues to deal with so up on the Andersons and done.
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Old 11-13-2020, 07:38 PM   #10
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wait? are you trying to level it while its still connected to the truck? that alone would cause issues, sorry if im not reading this correctly
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Old 11-14-2020, 05:33 AM   #11
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wait? are you trying to level it while its still connected to the truck? that alone would cause issues, sorry if im not reading this correctly
For those of us without an auto leveling system, we need to have the trailer level side to side while still attached to the truck. Then we disconnect and use the tongue jack to level front to back. Then we stabilize at the four corners.
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Old 11-14-2020, 06:35 AM   #12
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^^ What he said. Without an "auto leveling system" there is no other way to level side to side. The stabilizer jacks are for stabalizing not jacking the frame to get it level.
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Old 11-14-2020, 07:09 AM   #13
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Couple things I would do different. First, put the level on the trailer front cap, not the A-frame.

Second, don't use your carpenter's level inside the trailer on the floor or counter tops. Chances are they are not right either. Use the entry door frame. Place the carpenter's square vertical so you see the level left to right. Turn it 90 degrees and you can get the front to back. The entry door is always the only thing actually "square" to the rest of the trailer. Floors can be bowed, counter tops not straight, and frames can flex and twist. But the entry door is always square to everything. Get the door level left-right and front-to-back and the rest of the trailer will be good.
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Old 11-14-2020, 07:52 AM   #14
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Couple things I would do different. First, put the level on the trailer front cap, not the A-frame.

Second, don't use your carpenter's level inside the trailer on the floor or counter tops. Chances are they are not right either. Use the entry door frame. Place the carpenter's square vertical so you see the level left to right. Turn it 90 degrees and you can get the front to back. The entry door is always the only thing actually "square" to the rest of the trailer. Floors can be bowed, counter tops not straight, and frames can flex and twist. But the entry door is always square to everything. Get the door level left-right and front-to-back and the rest of the trailer will be good.
Then how do you account for all post on this forum & any other asking how to keep their door from catching, dragging or not closing cause it hits somewhere once setup?
I typically check the kitchen counter top, whether it was installed level or not, as that's where we'll be laying stuff & don't want it rolling onto the floor.
Wherever you place your level is up to you, it doesn't have to be zeroed in to exactly level, as long as you're comfortable & the fridge is very close to level.
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Old 11-14-2020, 09:05 AM   #15
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I would highly recommend the Andersen levelers along with the LevelMate Pro so your set up is quick and easy. Spend the time to level the trailer as you want it (with slide out) and set the LevelMate Pro - you only do it once. From then on, pull into the site, turn on the LevelMate Pro, set out the levelers and drive up on them watching your smartphone and it tells you when it is level (when you extend the slide). Unhitch, run the tongue jack up/down until the program tells you it is level and DONE!! Very quick, very easy. Got a new one sitting in the box at the barn since it isn't needed with auto level.
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Old 11-14-2020, 09:39 AM   #16
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I would highly recommend the Andersen levelers along with the LevelMate Pro so your set up is quick and easy. Spend the time to level the trailer as you want it (with slide out) and set the LevelMate Pro - you only do it once. From then on, pull into the site, turn on the LevelMate Pro, set out the levelers and drive up on them watching your smartphone and it tells you when it is level (when you extend the slide). Unhitch, run the tongue jack up/down until the program tells you it is level and DONE!! Very quick, very easy. Got a new one sitting in the box at the barn since it isn't needed with auto level.
That's exactly what I do. I stop about 18" from where I want to end up. Place the andersons under the low side. Then I run up on the andersons until the driver's side is 3/4" high. I have two large slides on the curb side so after running out the slides it will settle about 3/4" down. No more pull up, look at level, back up oops to far, do it again. Works perfect for me.
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Old 11-14-2020, 10:23 AM   #17
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drive the wheels up on blocks to level side to side. Unhook the TV. Use stabilizers for front to back level. Stabilization only. No jacking. The level App on your smartphone works very well. When your good with all that extend the slides. Do not support them.
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Old 11-14-2020, 10:53 AM   #18
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on my WinnieMinnie 26' it had manual everything, but i always disconnected from tv before attempting to level anything, side to side id just drive it into blocks of wood , then wind down my stabilizer jacks... my new trailer retracts the tongue jack automatically which i kinda would rather the extra stability.
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Old 11-19-2020, 09:17 AM   #19
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Mount the level where it is supposed to be. On the trailer itself.
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Old 11-19-2020, 01:23 PM   #20
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3. On most trailers with a single slide, if the trailer is leveled with the slide retracted, once the slide is extended, the trailer will "lean to the heavy side". On "ultra-light trailers" that "lean" is even more pronounced.
My owners manual says to level first, then extend the slide.
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