Suburban Water Heater: which way is which on by-pass valve?

[DennisT]

Last Fall I removed the panel under range to access water heater. There is a 90-degree valve there for, apparently, by pass. I moved it through it's travel, pulled out the anode rod from heater tank, (from the outside of TT), and then filled water system with anti-freeze after draining water tank. Everything seemed good; no leaks this Spring. We had family health problems until now, so we're getting late start to travel and will only have this Fall to go places.

A few weeks ago I de-winterized. Replaced the WH anode from the outside, and I, "think," I switched the by-pass valve back. Today, having previously run a lot of water through the system this summer to flush anti-freeze, I noticed the short, interconnecting tubing between WH lines was still slightly pink. I threw that valve again, run hot water tap, and line turned to clear again.

But now I don't know which way the valve is set. There are NO markings on it for by-pass or regular. How can I tell if it is normally set????? I need to kick on the propane and test the water heater before we leave in September, but certainly don't want to do that if I've restricted water flow through the heater tank!!

Documentation furnished with TT is NO help at all for that valve.

Anyone have diagrams, etc.???

Please advise,
Thank you,
Dennis

[poncho62]

I take it your taps have a handle on them that tums 90 degrees.......On these, when the handle is in the same direction as the pipe, it is open, when it is 90 degrees from the pipe it is closed.

[DennisT]

Thank you. However, I realize that as standard, I guess I mis-phrased my remarks. In looking again, the valve is at the bottom of an, "H," tubing configuration, with the, "H," laying on it's side. With the valve handle pointing up, it suggests flow moves through the center or bridging section of the, "H." I'm guessing that may be by-pass. But there is no corresponding valve at the top end of the, "H," to prevent cold water from running back into the tank on the hot leg. If there were, it would make sense to me.

Right now I've got the valve switched to, "up," which diverts cold water from the cold inlet, up toward and into the, "hot," leg. But with no valve on the hot leg, it would seem to me the cold water would merely run back into the HW tank via the hot side.

I've really gotten myself confused. I need to figure this out and make up a directions tag to place on the WH.

Still .. ???

Dennis

[poncho62]

Mine has 3 valves, one at the top, one at the bottom and one in that pipe in between....cant see how it would work otherwise either

[Festus2]

You can tell if you have water in the HW tank by slightly backing off the drain plug/anode on the tank's exterior. Just back it off enough so that water starts to come out. If water starts to seep out, then the tank probably contains water and it would be safe to fire up the propane and/or the electricity. If you keep backing it off and no water comes out, then you know that your tank is most likely empty and your shut off valve needs to be turned 90 degrees to allow water to flow into the tank.

This will work if you have already filled your water lines with your pump or by the city water connection and water is coming out the faucets.

[DennisT]

Poncho62, from what I've begun to learn, you have a decent by-pass system. I don't have that, (wish I did).

Festus2, that's a good idea. I thought about it earlier, but was trying to figure another way so I didn't have to break the Teflon seal on the anode.

However, I stumbled across what was a seemingly unrelated post that mentioned some simple by-pass systems use a check valve instead of a second ball valve. In looking once again at where my HOT water plastic pipe enters the tank, I see a brass fitting. They didn't use brass anywhere else on mine, so why there? I think now it's a check valve that prevents cold water from entering the tank when the one, lone ball valve is switched. I think it's there instead of a second ball valve.

I think I have a, "one ball-valve plus check valve," system.

Now. Any of you have what I have?

I think I'm gaining on this.

Dennis

[DennisT]

OK, guys...found this back in some more searches I did.

"Water Heater:
Ok, I have read the forums and have located the bypass valve for the water heater. I have turned this and then drained the tank by pulling out the anode rod.

Now comes the silly part I just cannot wrap my head around. The bypass stops the water from entering the 'cold' inlet at the bottom of the tank and forces it up to a tee with the top of the tank where the 'hot' usually exits. But what will stop any water from entering the opening at the top of the tank? (at the hot port)
Does the hot port have a check valve built in or something? DEW

Yup, there's a little one-way check valve that keeps the cold water from backfeeding into the tank. Steve


I've read posts about the one-way valve on the hot side binding up and shutting off hot water to the camper. I took the innards out of mine and replaced the "T connector with a manual valve so I isolate my water heater my turning two valve handles. Not a big deal and cheap insurance to know you won't get in the middle of a trip and have no hot water."

I copied these comments over here from another post. Clears things up for me and I hope it helps someone else. Now to decide at a later time if I want to remove the check valve and insert a second ball valve. It, "would," be a good idea.

Thanks to All,
Dennis

[Festus2]

Dennis -

Poncho62 has a 1999 Springdale and since it is an older model it looks as though he has an "older" 3 valve by-pass system. I had a similar set up on our older 5th wheel. Ours, like many of the newer models, now has a single bypass valve that when it is parallel to the line is open and allows water to flow into the tank. When it is vertical to the line, it is in the closed position and stops water from entering.

I'm not familiar with any brass check valve that acts as a bypass. It may be just a brass fitting that goes into the H/W tank. If all you can see is a single valve, I am quite sure this is all you need to be concerned about as long as you have it opened to allow water into the tank before you fire it up.

As far as breaking the Teflon seal is concerned, if you back the plug out you can always re-wrap any bare threads with another turn of the tape.

Have you also considered releasing the HW tank pressure valve to see if any water comes out?

[yaya]

I was reading your post and I have the same problem with my water heater. I brought mine already winterized and I flushed the system out but could never get any hot water. When I put my one valve horizontal with the cold water line, I lose pressure from hot water side and water stops coming out. Do you think that I have a bad check valve on the pipe coming out of the top of the water heater? The valve is vertical right now, I believe that means its bypassed?
Can you give me some tips or advice?

[hankpage]

yaya, When you turn the valve the water will start to go into the tank so until the heater is full (6 gallons) there will be no pressure other than air at the faucets.

[gepaine]

According to my dealer, my 2011 Cougar TT has a check valve in the water heater output line that allows water to only flow out of the tank - not in. That is why only one bypass valve is needed.