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Old 08-09-2020, 05:22 PM   #1
chunker
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Raptor garage floor

How thick and what material is used in the newer Raptors for the garage floor? My 2011 had 1" plywood and current online propaganda from Keystone says 1" but I don't see what they say is used, plywood, OSB, particle board, ??? I'm going to mount some e-track on the floor to secure the motorcycle chock and various tool bags etc. I don't want to use incorrect screw length. Where I can see the underside of the floor I may use bolts and use large fender washers on the underside to spread the load. I'll also generously caulk the fittings underside.
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Old 08-11-2020, 05:27 AM   #2
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Well here's the answer. I called keystone CS and the rep sent me a link to what it is. Dynaspan which is a fancy term for oversized OSB made for the RV industry. "Supposedly" water proof/resistant under normal conditions. As far as fasteners the lawyer talk recommendation is NOT to add any modifications to the floor. I didn't confirm what type specifically are used at the factory but in the conversation I referenced my 2011 Raptor and the lag type screws used and she said that is similar to what is currently used. And I recall the lag type coarse thread screws were rather short and didn't penetrate through the floor.

For information, when I found those on the 2011, I replaced many of them with bolts. I drilled through where I could see and safely do so without hitting a crossmember or gas tank, used very large fender washers, and caulked the crap our of everything including filling the drilled hole with silicone caulk before running the bolt through. Then heavily caulked the underside around the bolt before putting the washer and nut on. I felt that made the tie downs more solid. As far as the fasteners I should use for the e-track, I plan to call the Dyna span people to see what is recommended. Where I can see the underside, I may repeat my 2011 procedure, where I can't due to fuel tanks, etc, I'll use what is recommended if they will give one.

Surprising no one on the forum knew the information or responded.
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Old 08-11-2020, 05:04 PM   #3
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I'm just now seeing your post...the floor in our 2018 Raptor 353TS is covered with a non-skid material on top and hidden by fuel tanks and Darco on the bottom. I haven't stripped any of the covering so I can't speak to what is in the middle, but I'd almost guess it is fairly thin OSB or particle board. It sure doesn't seem like it is 1" thick. And it may not be all the same - in mine, it seems like the flooring "outside the frame rails" is not as substantial as the flooring "inside the frame rails".

In the newer trailers, they advertise 5,000# anchors welded to the frame for all the tie downs...while this makes for good selected anchor points, I'd guess what it was really all about was reducing the thickness (weight/cost) of the garage flooring.

Is there any way you can weld your lengths of Etrack together and then anchor them to the factory anchors?

Good luck!
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Old 08-11-2020, 05:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunker View Post
Well here's the answer. I called keystone CS and the rep sent me a link to what it is. Dynaspan which is a fancy term for oversized OSB made for the RV industry. "Supposedly" water proof/resistant under normal conditions. As far as fasteners the lawyer talk recommendation is NOT to add any modifications to the floor. I didn't confirm what type specifically are used at the factory but in the conversation I referenced my 2011 Raptor and the lag type screws used and she said that is similar to what is currently used. And I recall the lag type coarse thread screws were rather short and didn't penetrate through the floor.

For information, when I found those on the 2011, I replaced many of them with bolts. I drilled through where I could see and safely do so without hitting a crossmember or gas tank, used very large fender washers, and caulked the crap our of everything including filling the drilled hole with silicone caulk before running the bolt through. Then heavily caulked the underside around the bolt before putting the washer and nut on. I felt that made the tie downs more solid. As far as the fasteners I should use for the e-track, I plan to call the Dyna span people to see what is recommended. Where I can see the underside, I may repeat my 2011 procedure, where I can't due to fuel tanks, etc, I'll use what is recommended if they will give one.

Surprising no one on the forum knew the information or responded.
I have drilled into my garage floor in different areas. I suspect it is 1 inch thick maybe thicker . I have carpet and the matting. I used 2 inch bolts and had threads left . But when you find out for sure please inform us of your findings.
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Old 08-12-2020, 04:58 AM   #5
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Yesterday afternoon I sent an email to Dyna-bilt, the maker of dynaspan and other RV related wood products such as flooring, roof sheathing, etc. I asked what type fastener is recommended to use in the dynaspan where I couldn't access the underside due to fuel tanks etc. Waiting on that answer and I'll post it here. The Keystone rep yesterday checked and confirmed the floor is 1" thick and dynaspan which id OSB. On mine I opened the storage compartment in the dovetail part of the floor and reaching up past the door frame, the floor feels over 1". I don't have a caliper that could measure it but am going to try and see if one of my wood clamps could reach past the metal door frame and get an approximate measurement. Course that would include any underlayment/coating as well as the floor rubber. BUT being the dovetail and a separate piece from the main garage floor it could be different material.

The leak and damage I had in my 2011 Raptor was in that dovetail section and when I took out the door and side panels I think that section was plywood. I cut out the bad to a crossmember and used 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood laminated and glued together for my repair.
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Old 08-12-2020, 05:07 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by LewisB View Post
I'm just now seeing your post...the floor in our 2018 Raptor 353TS is covered with a non-skid material on top and hidden by fuel tanks and Darco on the bottom. I haven't stripped any of the covering so I can't speak to what is in the middle, but I'd almost guess it is fairly thin OSB or particle board. It sure doesn't seem like it is 1" thick. And it may not be all the same - in mine, it seems like the flooring "outside the frame rails" is not as substantial as the flooring "inside the frame rails".

In the newer trailers, they advertise 5,000# anchors welded to the frame for all the tie downs...while this makes for good selected anchor points, I'd guess what it was really all about was reducing the thickness (weight/cost) of the garage flooring.

Is there any way you can weld your lengths of Etrack together and then anchor them to the factory anchors?

Good luck!
That would be overkill for what I need. The etrack is going to be used to secure my toolboxes, compressor and such. I may put a couple of the short 2 section etrack pieces to hold the ratchet straps for the bike if the floor tie-downs are not in a proper location. In the front area I can drop the coroplast to access the underside and run bolts through. For the rear straps I'll have to use existing tie downs. According to what I've read so far the floor section is supposed to be 1 piece so it "should" be the same thickness for the whole garage. Has anyone here done a factory tour and remember what it looked like when the floor sections were installed on the frame?
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Old 08-12-2020, 09:57 AM   #7
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When I was doing repair work on the trusses In the garage. The floor was bolted on the sides and floated On top of the steel floor truss.
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Old 08-12-2020, 10:09 AM   #8
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Have you thought about using J bolts. Drilling a hole into the E tracks securing the u bolt to the tiedown slots and bolt it to the e track .
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Old 08-12-2020, 01:06 PM   #9
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Dynaspan appears to be market-speak for 24' long sheets of OSB. I think I would prefer 1" pressure treated plywood for water resistance.



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Old 08-13-2020, 04:26 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by roadglide View Post
Have you thought about using J bolts. Drilling a hole into the E tracks securing the u bolt to the tiedown slots and bolt it to the e track .
Thanks I'm considering all options right now. A bit of update about material, I got an email from Dynabilt, the maker of dynaspan and other RV wood products, and they do NOT supply materials to Keystone RV. He gave a name of a possible 2 suppliers and said he couldn't help with my question about fasteners. I provided that info back to Keystone and they asked for my VIN again. No response yet but it was later in the afternoon yesterday. Appears that Keystone corporate CS doesn't even know who supplies materials. NOT very helpful.

I'm going to wash the RV this morning before it gets hot and the rain moves in and after that I'll put it back in the pole barn on the concrete and spend some time under the trailer on my creeper. I'll also lower the coroplast in the forward garage section so I can get a clear view of that section of the underside.
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Old 08-13-2020, 04:32 AM   #11
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Dynaspan appears to be market-speak for 24' long sheets of OSB. I think I would prefer 1" pressure treated plywood for water resistance.



I agree and if you'll look at my response to roadglide dynaspan isn't the product. Dynabilt makes several wood sheathing oversized products for RVs and the dynaspan is the OSB. They have other dynaxxxx names for plywood flooring, roof sheathing, and other products. Perhaps unless I drill a hole for a bolt and look at what the material is, I may not know what it is or the thickness. The Condor chock will be here this weekend and when I decide where it goes I'll do that.
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Old 08-13-2020, 03:37 PM   #12
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floor update

Didn't hear back from keystone, so much for CS!!. I did get it washed and it does shine. Also crawled under with the creeper and dropped the last few feet of the coroplast. In that area the underfloor is clearly visible and unobstructed so any e-track I install can easily be bolted. The 2 gas tanks are about 5" below the floor so I can also easily run bolts in that area as needed. I'm not going to waste my time with lag screws since they won't be as secure as bolts and fender washers. Yes I'll caulk the crap out go the holes and underside.
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Old 08-16-2020, 11:16 AM   #13
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I have a 2007 Rapto 3612 DS Toyhauler. Added extra screws to the existing E track. They were held down by 1" Drywall screws. Seems to be doing the job, I have 2 Polaris 550 Sportsman 4 wheelers ( just fit in ) they tie down very well and I have had no problem E track pulling up. Added more screws as a precaution.
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Old 08-21-2020, 04:47 AM   #14
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I got the Condor chock and mounting plate and installed it/them. The mounting plate required 2 5/16" holes drilled though. I measured and the holes would be on either sided of the fore/aft crossmember under the floor. The floor is 1" thick, a wood product, but not likely plywood. Looking in the drilled holes there doesn't appear to be laminated layers like plywood has. The drill chewed up the wood pretty fine and it's apparent it's also not solid wood. That leaves OSB. I squirted copious amount of black silicone caulk in each hole. I pushed both bolts in, countersunk with Allen head.

Since I had no one to prevent the bolt from spinning when I put the nut on, self locking, I used small needle nose type vice grips to hold the bold as I used a deep well socket to tighten the nut. When I ran out of space at the top of the bolt I put the vice grips at the bottom of the bolt and finished tightening the nut using a ratcheting box end wrench. After bolt bolts/nuts tight, I applied more copious black silicone caulk to the underside every place around the hardware.

My 4 single slot etrack parts arrive today and I'll determine their location and essentially repeat the installs.

In the meantime 2, yes 2, tropical systems will be entering the Gulf of Mexico in a few days perhaps interfering with my trip north.

EDIT ADDING: After installing the Condor chock and loading the motorcycle I have decided to not install any of the e-track sections for the bike tie-downs. I can use the in-floor tie-downs and still open the garage and half-bath doors. My tool bags/boxes fit along the side walls and the in-floor tie-downs work well with the ratchet straps to secure them. I may change my mind in the future but for this trip that's what I'm doing.

Meanwhile I'm sitting in my GF's 5th wheel in NW FL in the rain from the first tropical system, Marcos, but only steady light/moderate rain here. Thursday heading north to hopefully cooler, and drier, climes.
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Old 08-23-2020, 02:32 PM   #15
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Garage Floor

Good ideas by others. In the sloped area of my 2010 Raptor a tie down pulled out. I found rotted OSB there and replaced it with 1" solid oak and sealed it up with black poly and silicone. Water entry at top of tailgate suspected. Door also has soft spots and that's my next project. I mounted my motorcycle chocks to plywood panels sized to space off the garage front wall. Weight of bikes and factory tie down points hold it down. Good results so far.
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Old 08-24-2020, 03:57 AM   #16
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Good ideas by others. In the sloped area of my 2010 Raptor a tie down pulled out. I found rotted OSB there and replaced it with 1" solid oak and sealed it up with black poly and silicone. Water entry at top of tailgate suspected. Door also has soft spots and that's my next project. I mounted my motorcycle chocks to plywood panels sized to space off the garage front wall. Weight of bikes and factory tie down points hold it down. Good results so far.
On my 2011 300MP that's where I found my floor rot. I removed the left in-floor storage compartment, side diamond shield plate and pulled up the rubber floor covering. Cut out the rotted section back to frame members and used 2 sections of 1/2" plywood glued together as the new floor. Also used lots of caulking, rubberized undercoating and heavy plastic film to seal and protect the work. I wasn't sure of the exact source of the leak so I sealed up every seam in the area. On the underside I used a ton of spray undercoating.
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Old 08-24-2020, 05:53 AM   #17
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Raptor Garage Floor

We have a 2014 Raptor 384PK with 14' garage. The material used is OSB and it is one inch thick. The reason I know this is because the passenger side of the garage floor went soft and I had to replace it. I used 1" Marine plywood to replace the garbage that keystone puts in. Prior to installation, I completely saturated the new wood with flex seal and the seams where I cut out the old OSB. This should last a very long time imo. Hope this helps.
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