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Old 02-22-2019, 04:39 PM   #21
sourdough
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Originally Posted by daveinaz View Post
That's what I'm going to do -- cut the coroplast into smaller sections, then use 3m spray glue to attach the factory "insulation"/shiny bubble wrap to the top side of the coroplast, then put it back up in more manageable sections. Then I'll put gorilla tape on the seams and spray foam where any pipes come out the bottom.

Dave, when you cut that coroplast you might use one of these products to seal the seams;

https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Shiel...gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Belly-...s%2C159&sr=8-1

I have read that the gorilla tape will let go and peel over time. Chuckster has said, if I recall, that "scrim" tape is what they use to seal the seams on the coroplast. I have bought the flex mend because it appears to be the same thing as scrim tape but scrim tape is pretty expensive. I have not used the flex mend yet; I have taken a piece off and just "tested" it and it seems like it ought to be pretty good. Just some options.
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Old 02-22-2019, 05:17 PM   #22
KeithInUpstateNY
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Looks like a nice neat job steveo57.
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:41 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Dave, when you cut that coroplast you might use one of these products to seal the seams;

https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Shiel...gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Belly-...s%2C159&sr=8-1

I have read that the gorilla tape will let go and peel over time. Chuckster has said, if I recall, that "scrim" tape is what they use to seal the seams on the coroplast. I have bought the flex mend because it appears to be the same thing as scrim tape but scrim tape is pretty expensive. I have not used the flex mend yet; I have taken a piece off and just "tested" it and it seems like it ought to be pretty good. Just some options.
Let us know how that flex mend works -- it certainly look like a more economical option over the Scrim tape.
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Old 02-26-2019, 04:20 PM   #24
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Let us know how that flex mend works -- it certainly look like a more economical option over the Scrim tape.

"Hopefully" I won't have any need for the tape in the foreseeable future. I bought it, along with lots of other stuff, for a "what if" situation. I believe it can also be used on the Darco fabric under my slides so it figure it might come in handy one day.
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Old 02-26-2019, 04:39 PM   #25
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"Hopefully" I won't have any need for the tape in the foreseeable future. I bought it, along with lots of other stuff, for a "what if" situation. I believe it can also be used on the Darco fabric under my slides so it figure it might come in handy one day.
I used some Gorilla Tape on the Darco under the slide. The first time "in" the tape got all snarled up on the plastic bottom support and created quite a mess. I am still looking for something to repair some small screw holes in the darco.
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:03 PM   #26
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I used some Gorilla Tape on the Darco under the slide. The first time "in" the tape got all snarled up on the plastic bottom support and created quite a mess. I am still looking for something to repair some small screw holes in the darco.

Frank, I'm not sure what the true answer is. My trailer had 3 patches of what I assume is/was scrim tape under one of the slides on the Darco. No apparent reasons for it but they did start to turn up just a tiny bit on the edges = looked like one of the tapes I posted. Thankfully they were in the middle of the slide (somewhat bowed up) and didn't have a lot of wear from the wear bar. Fixed that with the poly? strips I placed under the slides.
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:29 PM   #27
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I look at the underbelly and it makes me cringe. Lots of little just gaps etc. I’m going to drop it and foam/insulate where needed. Then use double sided foam tape like you would used on a truck canopy to seal it up better

I have a basement model, and I want to hard foam the inside of it as well. In between the aluminum sub frame, front compartment as well.

It might be overkill. The front and basement do not have any floor insulation, and the doors are thin to outside.
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Old 02-28-2019, 09:19 AM   #28
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Here's an option, skirting. Expensive probably but a LOT less crawling around under the RV. If I was full time I would look into that further. Especially if I planned to spend more time in colder areas. Of course that could have included most of the southern states this year .

I did the aluminum foil bubble wrap stuff on my Bullet. Real pain, and not sure how well it worked but made me feel like I did something. Also allowed me to reroute some of the heater ducting. Couldn't believe the "workmanship" used by the builders.

Be very careful when installing/reinstalling the underbelly. When removing the coroplast make sure the shorter screws go back in the same place. They are shorter for a reason. I learned that AFTER I screwed into the bottom of my fresh water tank . That's when I learned how to repair plastic......
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Old 02-28-2019, 10:28 AM   #29
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Thanks for all the useful discussion about dropping the coroplast. I have a 2012 Montana 3150RL and there is an intermittent leak in my kitchen gray tank, which is over the 2 axles. When I get home in April I plan to unbolt the coroplast from the frame (and replace the bolts with SS!), get a good look at the tank to determine the leak, and then decide how to repair it. I was wondering how to remove the coroplast to get at the tank because with the axles in the way, spare tire under-mounted through the coroplast, and other various warts, wires, propane pipe, and protrusions, it might be hard to actually get the coroplast completely off in order to do the work.

I would love to get the entire sheet off to expose the tank but it may not be possible. I was hoping to locate the leak in a position that I might be able to reach it. I might have to cut out a flap or a section of the coroplast. I may look into H-extrusions for rejoining the sheets and/or replacement sheets (thanks FrankG), or Gorilla Tape (thanks Ray).

Ray at Love Your RV had a full video and discussion on removing and reattaching the coroplast underbelly:
https://www.loveyourrv.com/reinstall...el-underbelly/

There has also been several useful discussions on repairing leaky tanks and installing extra supports for the tank (thanks Rohrmann).
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=72308
https://www.loveyourrv.com/repairing...h-plasti-mend/
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Old 02-28-2019, 12:37 PM   #30
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Just remember that changing the factory under belly with something else May add a lot of weight for which the trainer was not designed for. Just saying otherwise just buy a n extramarital cold weather trailer.
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Old 02-28-2019, 02:40 PM   #31
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If insulation is the issue I cut hatches in the corroplast and stuffed the underbelly with r38 fiberglass and it made a big differance. I used gorilla tape and a heat gun to seal the hatches back up. Hdpe is durable but it probably will not have the structural stiffness of corroplast.
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:11 PM   #32
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Last winter in our then new 3731FL to verify the effectiveness of the basement heating I put a transmitter for our indoor/outdoor thermometer behind the area where all the plumbing converges. In temps that ran down into the teens the basement maintained 58 to 60 degrees. That's with no added insulation beyond the factory.



In my stick built house I have Hydronic radiant heat in the floors. They used the bubble wrap insulation under the floor joists to keep the heat going up to the rooms. This is the same insulation the factory puts above the coroplast. My experience is it gives the equivient of R13 fiberglass blanket insulation. It's uneffected by water if there is a leak. Remember heat rises so there is not much loss going down thru the coroplast.

here is what they used:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reach-Ba...4125/204476654
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Old 03-01-2019, 11:35 AM   #33
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has anyone ditched the coroplast for something a little stronger/higher quality. It might be my ocd, but coroplast looks like a hammered dog turd every time i look under a trailer. My thought is using 1/8" HDPE. Its is EXTREMELY durable , my thought was to use adhesive and attach 2" closed cell construction foam for better under trailer insulation, then attach with sell tapping screws to the frame, im guessing i will have to add a little bit if cross bracing for the seams to be tied into, on could then simply caulk, or tape the joint lines (perhaps a butyl gasket) To fight moisture under the trailer, my idea was to add a "radon" fan and piping for air movement when needed.



Coroplast does very little to insulate the underbelly. It does seal out wind and moister. I put R30 in my underbelly. I hung ½” emt to support the cheap-o plastic liner. It is very light and strong enough to support the sagging.

I also added electric heat pads to my water tanks and pluming. Make sure you put pads on any long drain runs and near any dump valves that are not mounted directly onto a tank.

I did a thread about camping in Angel Fire NM this Christmas. It got down to -24f one night and we stayed warm. We were one of a few in the park that had running water in our trailer.

Angel Fire RV Resort During Christmas? - Keystone RV Forums

Cheers!
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:56 AM   #34
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We pull our camper out to our hunting property in October and leave it set up until the week before Christmas.
We have access to electricity but nothing else and when we aren't out there I set the thermostat for 45 which is the lowest it will go and we keep a couple of spare propane tanks there, I didn't winterize it until we were getting well below freezing and I was surprised how little propane we used. This was our second year of doing this and I have to say it's awful nice driving out and having a warm place to stay. If you do change the coroplast let us know how it goes as I may be interested in trying it myself.
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Old 03-02-2019, 07:58 PM   #35
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BulletOwner1 suggested skirting. Skirting around the perimeter is what I see lots of up here in Western Canada. Works okay if you are staying in one place. People live year round in RV's when work requires it. Just remember to allow for some air circulation, or moisture will become a problem.
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