Rear tail lights... - Page 2

mtbkrdan · 03-29-2012, 05:06 PM

I did not get the WLED xHP5. They were a bit pricier than I could afford right now so I searched the net and found similar LED bulbs. The incandescent measures 7/8" and the LEDs I got measure 1 1/16". Unfortunately the vendor I purchased these from didn't have the dimensions to check the size. The 2 LEDs I currently have installed are resting against the lens. The first one I installed last night was in as far as I dared and when I put on the lens the light bent up slightly so thus my concern. I checked the 2 lens today and they didn't feel like they were about to pop off but I will always be thinking about it probably.

(2 Pair) T10 152 194 147 Auto Led Bulbs Universal Amber

http://www.amazon.com/Pair-Auto-Bulb...071267&sr=8-22

webslave · 03-30-2012, 07:31 AM

Yep, as you found out, you have to be very careful from whom you get your LEDs and always make sure of the dimensions. There is variance in what each company "deems" a replacement for a given bulb. The bulbs from Superbrite are less than 1" in length and have plenty of room under the lens and are, based on your previous post, probably much brighter than the bulbs you found for less $$. Some of the variance in brightnest, particularly in the bulbs you ordered, is that those bulbs are "white". You will get less light from a white light behind a colored lens as you will from a light that the color matches the lens, i.e., always put an amber bulb behind an amber lens and a red bulb behind a red lens, etc. It has to do with wave length filtering. An amber lens will filter out all the wavelengths of the light behind it except for amber...if you use a white light, a large portion of the light produced is filtered out by the amber lens. Simplistic explanation, but, if you want the more "in depth" physics behind it, there are numerous sites that will explain it more "physics terminology". I've always had good luck with Superbrite as regards reliability, sizing information and brightness. Their customer service is top notch also. When I ordered the bulbs for my clearance lights, I ordered one extra of each amber and red LED. Turns out that one of the new ones had one bad SMD on it...it would light intermittantly, but, not constantly, so I used a "spare" to finish the changeover. Called the company and they shipped out a replacement that day and didn't want the bad one back; took me at my word. Can't ask for better.

LEDs are now a "big" thing with a lot of folks, and there is an awful lot of junk being produced to lure folks in. With LEDs, you do, quite often, get what you pay for...

mtbkrdan · 03-30-2012, 02:04 PM

I understand physics and did use an amber LED under the amber lens. Like you said, you get what you pay for. I'm in the process of returning these marker LEDs and will just have to wait until I can afford to replace 14 clearance markers. Actually, it might only be 13 because I discovered a clearance marker assembly mounted to the frame in the area where the steps fold into to. There is a bulb in the assembly but I don't know if it's just for the reflector of if the assembly is wired and should function. Thanks again for everybody's insight and advice.

webslave · 03-30-2012, 02:30 PM

I know that's a bummer for you

Same lesson I learned years ago when I first started experimenting with LEDs. I know I can buy cheaper than Superbrite, but, on the other hand, I've never had a problem with their products; I just bite the bullet and pay... Should only be 13 lights - 6 amber and 7 red.

The one under your steps is a "night light" to illuminate your steps...if it is like mine it should come on when the porch light is on... If you are a boondocker and use your porch lights while off the grid, then an LED conversion would be worthwhile (along with your porch light), but, I don't boondock so I leave those incandescents alone.

The only reason I convert the other exterior lights (running and tail) to LED is to be seen and to function properly with my adapter for lighting the running lights and tail lights for hazard avoidance. With those converted, I can be seen (particularly the tail lights) and they can run in "hazard mode" off the coach battery for weeks without drawing the battery down dangerously, a couple of hours or even a couple of days on and the battery hardly notices them. I'm actually the opposite of a lot of folks that convert their interior lights to LEDs to save juice (not needed for staying in a CG with hookups), save on the heat incandescents give off ( I don't have so many lights on that it makes a difference, see the next comment), make the lights brighter (I'm the opposite, the darn lights are too bright now, I don't want them any brighter; I actually downgrade the lights to lower wattage (dimmer) bulbs or pull one out of a double fixture).

dea3851 · 03-30-2012, 04:18 PM

just some information, picked up marker lights for a friend of mind at harbor freight store, 2'' submersible round marker light kit stock # 98070 5.99 ea. looked good on his equipment trailer, they had yellow and red.

f6bits · 03-31-2012, 06:07 AM

How do you clean the silicone bead off the trailer? I’m tempted to get the Harbor Freight tail lights, which are smaller.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...hts-94137.html

SteveC7010 · 03-31-2012, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdayman

How do you clean the silicone bead off the trailer?

I don't think the existing caulk is a silicone based product. Regardless, caulk of most any kind will come right off the fiberglass skin pretty easily, usually just using your fingers.

If you use putty tape behind the new lights, be sure to use the butyl version.

Same for caulk... If you choose to caulk around the lights, use a butyl caulk.

**JRTJH** · 03-31-2012, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdayman

How do you clean the silicone bead off the trailer? I’m tempted to get the Harbor Freight tail lights, which are smaller.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...hts-94137.html

Keystone, along with most other manufacturers are pretty sloppy about how they install lights on the trailers. If you look at the links in this forum, you'll see that the tail lights were installed at the factory with "gaping" holes for the wire to connect to the lights. Before you invest in HF lights that are significantly smaller, I'd take off both the old tail lights to make sure you can cover the "wounds" made by the factory with the new, smaller fixtures. If the new lights won't cover the holes in your trailer, you might be able to put a "plastic cover" over the hole and then mount the new lights to that cover, but I'd suggest you find what you're dealing with before you get the HF lights.

f6bits · 03-31-2012, 10:27 AM

My OEM light installation is really good. Clean hole for the wires, dead center. The holes are exactly the height of the Harbor Freight lights, so they’d be covered by caulking.

I asked about silicone removal because a) Whenever I replace lights, I want to thoroughly clean the surface, and b) there are silicone smears on various parts of the trailer I’ve not been able to rub off.

webslave · 03-31-2012, 02:32 PM

I use plastic razor blades for that sort of thing... I discovered them years ago in one of those catalogs that we normally throw away without looking at and figured, what the heck, they're cheap and I won't be out anything if it is a joke.

Skip ahead a dozen years or so... I have them in all three of my workshops, the kitchen and the 5ver and buy them by the hundred pack. They come in three "strengths" (varying amounts of stiffness) and I've used them on everything from stainless steel to the paint on my '76 El Dorado. They'll peel off dried paint, bugs on the windshield, stickers off a painted surface, that "what the heck is that?" stuff stuck to the side of the trailer...

http://plasticblades.com/products.php?cat=9

To get the last little surface goo off, I use some stuff I found at Griot's Garage. Goof Off, Goo Begone, etc., contains chemicals that are much too strong for a lot of surfaces...in fact Goof Off will disolve certain plastics in a flash (don't ask me how I know). I've never had that problem with the Adhesive Remover from Griot's. Don't exactly know what's in it, but, I use it on virtually everything, again, including the paint on my antique cars to easily get road tar and the like off the rocker panels or grease out of the carpet. I used to use WD40 for the same thing, but, WD40 required a lot more elbow grease and left an "oily" residue that then had to be removed with something else.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/adhesive+remover%2C+8+ounces.do?from=Search

Those are the "go to" things when I have a job like that... I used both products when I put my tail lights on...no damage to the filon, no loss of gloss, no scratches.

Clanton24v · 03-31-2012, 04:29 PM

Excellent links. Thank you

jbsmith · 04-02-2012, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by webslave

I got the Bargman #07 Series LED tail lights installed today. The LED #07 lights are the way to go.

My Bargman #07's showed up this afternoon. My install was exactly the same as webslave described above. All running lights and tail lights are now LED!

Retired_Jim · 04-03-2012, 06:10 AM

Webslave, is it possible your plastic blades site ref. has gone out of business? Tried to order but does not go through.

webslave · 04-03-2012, 07:26 AM

I don't know if they've gone out of business... I don't imagine so, but, I did just try their site and, what I got, was an API error which is more a web page design error...their web page may have been hacked or just hasn't been upgraded to allow for the latest security patches. As I mentioned, I order the replacement blades by the 100's and haven't actually ordered any for some time...

I would try the phone to see if it is just their web site that is the issue...

webslave · 04-12-2012, 11:51 AM

On the plastic blades site... I emailed them that there were API issues with their site. They looked into it and let me know that the problem, at this writing, is fixed. I just "ordered" some more spares and the site's ordering system, indeed, seems to be functioning properly again

Retired_Jim · 04-13-2012, 05:40 PM

Thanks. After not getting through on the website, I was able to call and place an order over the phone. He said there were website problems. Received my order yesterday and have used all three types of blades. Excellent product that does the jobs as advertized. Thanks for the lead. I need the plastic blades to remove old caulk on my trailer's rubber roof seams after heating with a heat gun.

mtbkrdan · 04-13-2012, 05:44 PM

All marker lights are now LED using the super bright and wow what a difference. I finally got in both Bargman #07s. Had to get a replacement twice due to cracked lenses. If anyone is interested I now have an extra driver side 07 light with license plate bracket. I also have 2 of the same kind that have cracked lenses.

gahanunda · 05-14-2012, 07:42 AM

I am interested in installing the Bargman 07 LEDs on myTT. I have read on some post somewhere that you need an electronic flasher in order for them to work. I have a 2011 Toyota T undra 5.7 and at this point dont know if the flasher on it will run LEDs on the trailer.

SteveC7010 · 05-14-2012, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gahanunda

I am interested in installing the Bargman 07 LEDs on myTT. I have read on some post somewhere that you need an electronic flasher in order for them to work. I have a 2011 Toyota T undra 5.7 and at this point dont know if the flasher on it will run LEDs on the trailer.

You should not need an LED style flasher for this. The truck may have problems if you were to swap the truck's regular tail light incandescents for LED's. Some vehicles now are computer driven so that an LED looks like a "bulb out" to it because of low current draw. My Dodge does that.

Not the case with additional lighting on the existing truck circuitry, and same for a trailer. Your new Bargman LED's will work just fine on the trailer.

gahanunda · 05-14-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveC7010

You should not need an LED style flasher for this. The truck may have problems if you were to swap the truck's regular tail light incandescents for LED's. Some vehicles now are computer driven so that an LED looks like a "bulb out" to it because of low current draw. My Dodge does that.

Not the case with additional lighting on the existing truck circuitry, and same for a trailer. Your new Bargman LED's will work just fine on the trailer.

Thanks Steve

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