Level up noise and issue

[chunker]

As I stated in one of the other posts I'm on a trip alone so limited help locating sources of noises and issues. Rather than list several issues with one posting, I'm making individual posts for them. Multiples tend to get lost in help and some subjects don't get answered.

This involves the levelup system and mainly front hydraulic assemblies. The front jacks are very noisy, loud "rubbing noise, squeal, and that groaning especially with longer extensions to the jacks. Up until this trip I was mostly in level parking areas but had one on the trip where the ground sloped up to the rear which required boards in the front and actually hit the front jacks stroke limits. Fortunately the trailer was level at that point but a rather tall first step. When the jacks were partially extended I sprayed the pistons with silicone spray which didn't make much difference as they extended. The left piston has a couple of chip marks to the piston finish. They are not chrome pistons like my previous motorhome but rather a grey finish. I wonder if all the loud squealing/groaning was the piston surface being damaged. The I departed the site yesterday they did retract fairly quietly and performed the level rather quietly at the new site which was rather level and didn't require significant extension to the jacks.

With my previous motorhome with HWH hydraulic jack, they recommended WD40 for cleaning the pistons and jack seals. What does lippert recommend for these?

[ChuckS]

if it were my six point hyd level up Id be using 4 inch blocks under the pads to lesson the amount of piston extension. you will get a much more stable RV by doing so..

The noise you hear is friction of the dry outer wiper seals located on the very bottom of the hyd cylinders... They are there to remove dust and crap off the pistions to help prevent scarring of the inner cylinder material and seals

Use some motorcycle fork oil ... a light coating just prior to retracting to help condition the seals..Dry silicone spray lube doesnt do a thing for the seals and Lipperts PDF on care of the exposed pistons is out of date...

THis is the newest Lippert PDF on how to care for the hyd level up system

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002422.pdf

[chunker]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

if it were my six point hyd level up Id be using 4 inch blocks under the pads to lesson the amount of piston extension. you will get a much more stable RV by doing so..

The noise you hear is friction of the dry outer wiper seals located on the very bottom of the hyd cylinders... They are there to remove dust and crap off the pistions to help prevent scarring of the inner cylinder material and seals

Use some motorcycle fork oil ... a light coating just prior to retracting to help condition the seals..Dry silicone spray lube doesnt do a thing for the seals and Lipperts PDF on care of the exposed pistons is out of date...

THis is the newest Lippert PDF on how to care for the hyd level up system

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002422.pdf

I'll find some. HWH recommendation for WD40 is because WD40 is a cleaner and solvent with slippery qualities. It works well on their hydraulic levelers. About every 8-10 months I'd get a slow retraction in one and that would take care of it.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by chunker

I'll find some. HWH recommendation for WD40 is because WD40 is a cleaner and solvent with slippery qualities. It works well on their hydraulic levelers. About every 8-10 months I'd get a slow retraction in one and that would take care of it.

Sorry, but IMHO regular WD-40 is for rusted bolts (& not the best for that) & removing tar from your vehicle paint!! Never use on anything rubber, such as jack seals or slide seals!!!!!
WD-40 does however now have a silcone spray that would work on your jacks.
While mine was at the factory for warranty the techs recommended using a silicone spray on the extended jacks, wipe off dust & spray prior to retracting, & to wipe/spray every 30 days if extended for long periods.
To stop them from popping & creaking while extended, retract ALL hydraulic jacks &/or slides (this is a must or overfill will happen causing a mess), remove 1quart of the fluid from the reservoir then replace with the 15w motorcycle fork oil, extend/retract several times to mix oil, check reservoir level & fill to within 1/4-1/2" from the opening, if needing to top off in the future use the fork oil.

[ChuckS]

Having owned two different RVs with 6 point hyd level up you need to use motorcycle fork oil or ATF fluid on a rag and wipe a lite coat of it on the pistons prior to retracting.. This leaves a clean surface with a thin film of fluid to lubricate those oring outer wiper seals...

This keeps them flexible, long life, and makes the retraction much easier on the hyd pump motor due to less surface friction on those pistons...

The same practice has been used for Aircraft for many decades and ther eis a reason.. the piston needs to be clean prior to refueling and when the strut settles up inside its clean and the dust wiper oring gets lubed and cleaned

I used to use WD40 on many things but threw the stuff out about 15 years ago.. The worst dust attractant ever

[chunker]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

Having owned two different RVs with 6 point hyd level up you need to use motorcycle fork oil or ATF fluid on a rag and wipe a lite coat of it on the pistons prior to retracting.. This leaves a clean surface with a thin film of fluid to lubricate those oring outer wiper seals...

This keeps them flexible, long life, and makes the retraction much easier on the hyd pump motor due to less surface friction on those pistons...

The same practice has been used for Aircraft for many decades and ther eis a reason.. the piston needs to be clean prior to refueling and when the strut settles up inside its clean and the dust wiper oring gets lubed and cleaned

I used to use WD40 on many things but threw the stuff out about 15 years ago.. The worst dust attractant ever

HWH has been making hydraulic systems a long time and their products have been in use in many motorhomes a long time. I tend to defer to a manufacturer's recommendation especially if they have a good track record. My only other use for the WD40 is glue removal for stickers. Otherwise I use proper lubricants for the desired lubrication.

I do have blocks under the jacks but where I was even exceeded them. At home on a level concrete surface the jacks, especially the left front made a lot of noise. After spraying with the silicone spray ay my last site the jacks retracted quietly and at the next site where I am, extended quietly. Here though the site is fairly level so not a great extension required.

[ChuckS]

HWH has been making hydraulic systems a long time and their products have been in use in many motorhomes a long time. I tend to defer to a manufacturer's recommendation especially if they have a good track record. My only other use for the WD40 is glue removal for stickers. Otherwise I use proper lubricants for the desired lubrication.

My advise regarding using WD40 on the Lippert level up hydraulic level up pistons is technically and factually correct... WD40 is just going to screw up the outer dust seals on your unit...

Motorcycle fork oil or ATF wiped on prior to retraction and lightly wiped off removes dirt and crap off the exposed cylinder and will properly lubricate the outer dust seal...

WD40 will just cause those seals to crack .... I wish you well

[chunker]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

My advise regarding using WD40 on the Lippert level up hydraulic level up pistons is technically and factually correct... WD40 is just going to screw up the outer dust seals on your unit...

Motorcycle fork oil or ATF wiped on prior to retraction and lightly wiped off removes dirt and crap off the exposed cylinder and will properly lubricate the outer dust seal...

WD40 will just cause those seals to crack .... I wish you well

Thanks which is why I asked about these struts and put in anecdotal comments about HWH and their advice for their products. ATF was also suggested for the HWH but not by HWH. The hydraulic fluid that was used was ATF so that certainly would work.