Replace factory caulking without destroying decals

[SteveW2993]

I've had some caulking failure on my 2018 Passport so I'm pulling off the old (looks like silicone) and will replace with RV Proflex.

The problem I'm running into is where the decals are where I'm trying to scrape off the old caulking. I have a couple of plastic scrapers meant for removing silicone. It works, by the problem I run into is with the decals. How do I get the silicone off the decals? I've already damaged one even though I'm going as gingerly as possible. I can't imagine using a solvent on the caulk because I would expect that would also damage the decals.

What do I do here? I have a LOT of caulking that goes over decals... i want to make sure everything is clean and free of old caulk so the proflex gets a good grip...

Tnx

[JRTJH]

If you're asking about "removing the bead of sealant" where it runs over the decal, then remove as much as you can and when you apply the new sealant, it will overlap the space where the old sealant was located and cover the part of the decal where you removed the old sealant.

If, on the other hand, you're asking about "the smeared sealant that's an inch or two past the sealant bead" (where someone used a finger to smear the sealant so it looked even)... Well, I don't know of any way to remove that sealant other than "long, tedious, judicial work with lots of cussing".... Maybe an art gum eraser would help, but probably not much.

[SteveW2993]

Sorry yes, meant the bead. Forgot to attach picture till just now redoing the caulk around electrical port and city water/tank full port. Proflex dries clear so not sure if it will hide the damage.

I can see recailking this thing is going to be an ugly tedious job... maybe we should have saved campering for retirement so I'd have time to maintain it...

[JRTJH]

To remove the bead, I use plastic razor blades. They don't last long, but won't cut FILON, so they work for me. As for the decals and removing the "overly large area where it smeared"... Maybe you can get it off, maybe not.

Nothing sticks to cured silicone, not even more silicone, so your focus (IMHO) should be to get a clean space where the new sealant will adhere. That's under where you're going to apply the new bead. As for what's on the decals, if the new bead is adherent to the location where sealant is required (the hatch edges) then why worry about what's on the decals. Leave it, it won't be any worse than what you currently have and the new sealant will adhere "closer to the hatch edges anyway.....

Here's one link to the type of blades I use: https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Plasti...%2C163&sr=8-10

[SteveW2993]

Thanks for the link. As you can see in the picture in my first post, the decals are up to edges of the hatch covers, which means the existing beads are on the decals. As you said,nothing will stick to silicone, so it would seem I need to get the existing silicone bead off the decal part as well to ensure the new caulking takes. I guess that’s my concern.

To cover up the hole I made in the decal you can see to the right of the hatch cover getting the silicone off for a new bead, I cut that section of the decal with an exacto knife at an angle, so now it kinda just looks like that’s the shape of the decal.

I have a boat load of decals that are under where a new bead needs to be run to replace the old.

[JRTJH]

What I was suggesting, maybe it didn't come across well, is not to worry about the silicone on the decals. Leave that alone, it's not hurting anything. Focus on getting a "clean, silicone area" at the hatch edges and about 1/4" around the hatch. Then lay a 3/8" bead of sealant around the hatch. That new bead will cover the clear area, seal the clean area where there is no remaining silicone and prevent any leaks. Don't focus on the "might not adhere fully" concerns at the edges of the new bead (if they appear) because the "important part, the hatch/FILON space is fully sealed and won't leak.

Esssentially, it's "who cares if the edge of the new sealant might be lifting, 1/8" under it, it's sealed fully and any water can't get past the good sealant that is adhered.

With this "sealant model" the silicone on the decals is not a deterrent to waterproof beads of sealant around the hatch cover.