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Old 01-05-2022, 09:01 AM   #1
boxcar
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Broken anode rod

I have a 2018 Keystone Sprinter with a Suburban water heater. I pull the anode yearly to flush and replace. We've been living in the camper for the past six months.

I tried to take out the anode yesterday while winterizing it but the hex head came off with about 1" of head and the anode is stuck in the hole. The portion that came off appears to have threads inside so I suppose the outside threads are really frozen in to the tank.

I pulled the relief valve but will need to go back today with a pump to get the water out - hopefully it hasn't frozen and split the tank. I'm not sure how to proceed to get the remnants of the rod out without ruining the tank.

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-05-2022, 09:22 AM   #2
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If I understand right, the threaded part of the anode rod is still in the hole, but the outside hex part broke off. So you are not able to get any tools on the remaining part to screwed it and get it out?

If this is the case, about the only option you have is to try to extract it with an Easy Out. You drill a small pilot hole in the (bolt with the broken head). Then you start drilling the Easy Out into the pilot hole. All of this is done in reverse direction, so when the Easy Out finally tightens, it grips the broken (bolt) and then you can continue drilling (opposite direction) and it will unscrew the broken (bolt).

In your case, it will do the same thing, except you'll be doing it with the remainder of the anode rod shaft still caught in the threaded hole.

If that does not work, then the only other option I see is to drill multiple, multiple small holes into the remainder shaft and hopefully it will thin out enough, you'll be able to punch out, or pull out or bend up or break the remainder (shaft) in the threaded hole.

Either way, just be careful and don't drill on the threads on the water tank or you'll scar them up and then you'll definitely be replacing the tank.
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Old 01-05-2022, 09:23 AM   #3
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A picture would help understand the "inside threaded" part. The only options I can think of is to start with a liberal use of penetrating fluid on the exposed threads. I've had good results with PB Blaster before. Then try an old fashioned "basin wrench". They look like the head of slip joint pliers attacged to a rod at a right angle.

Next step would be heat applied to the threaded bung that's welded to the tank and try the wrench again. You will need to get the water out of the tank for the heat to work. If that fails drill a hole and try a thread extractor. Most anodes I've seen have the anode rod welded to the outside of the plug. If you have access to a dremel tool grind that weld off and it will make the drilling easier.

If the easy out ( screw extractor) doesn't work then drilling with increasingly larger bits are the last option. Go up in drill size until the pressure is relieved. I have in the past done this to a point where it's necessary to drill out right up to the threads had to use a chisel to drive the drilled portion away from the internal threads.
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Old 01-05-2022, 09:36 AM   #4
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If the thread is left and hex head broken, the thread has galled. That is, there is oxidation that causes the thread to stick. I would drill a hole into the head using a drill bit made for steel (head may be alloy but the harder the drill bit the better). I would use some penetrating oil and let it sit. The drilling may have loosened the thread but then heat while protecting nearby wires from burning and tap an EZ Out in the hole. Tap and tap and tap again as this also breaks the galling. Then after the area has been heated turn the EZ Out counter clockwise and remove the plug. The EZ Out must be pretty tight in the drilled hole lest it just spin and open the hole even more.
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Old 01-05-2022, 10:11 AM   #5
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Well, I thought the threaded portion of the plug remained in the hole but as you may be able to see in the photos the entire threaded portion of the plug that fits into the tank is off. However, it unscrewed the female side of the plug from the male threaded portion of the anode rod. In the first photo you may be able to see the threads inside the plug. There is a broken weld in the plug head on the inside that is broken. I don't quite understand the rest of the construction of the anode that is left inside nor what is holding it in now. Perhaps there are no more threads between the anode rod and tank, but the rod is "frozen" in place?

I appreciate all the suggestions. All my EZ Outs and heavy tools are at the farm six hours away so I probably will just drain as much water as possible, put in some potable antifreeze, and wait until I take the camper to the farm later this year.

Looking at this plug I thought I may try some permanent Loctite on the threads that are left and see if there is enough stiction to break the anode free. I'm not sure about that method.
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Old 01-05-2022, 10:57 AM   #6
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Can you post a pic of thee water heater? I've never seen an anode rod stuck in place as you describe. In your picture you can see the weld where the anode was welded in. DO NOT PUT ANTIFREEZE IN THE WATER HEATER. Antifreeze in the WH can damage it.
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Old 01-05-2022, 12:44 PM   #7
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If it were me.... I'd get an air compressor and set it at 50 PSI... then use it like I was blowing out the lines for winterization... just don't bypass the water heater.. it might well blow the rod out far enough to get a pair of vice grips on it.. wouldn't take much..
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Old 01-05-2022, 03:38 PM   #8
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Smile

Success!

I went to the RV storage area with some Permatex Steel Weld but I didn't need it. I sprayed some PB Blaster in what remained, screwed the plug back on the male threads on the anode, and used a socket extension to wiggle it back and forth until the anode broke free from the tank. Then I used pliers to pull the entire assembly out in one piece.

I've attached a picture of the anode rod stuck and another with it out of the heater.

I will check the anode once a month if we ever use the camper full time as we have been for the past 6 months. Thanks for the quick responses and great ideas!
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Old 01-05-2022, 03:48 PM   #9
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I bet you have a lot of debris build up in the bottom of that tank. You need to replace the thermostate cover as it looks like it's melted. I would get a tap and run it thru the hole and clean those threads. I do that once a year to keep them clean. A little grease in the tap flutes will catch the metal shavings.
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Old 01-06-2022, 02:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcar View Post
Success!

I went to the RV storage area with some Permatex Steel Weld but I didn't need it. I sprayed some PB Blaster in what remained, screwed the plug back on the male threads on the anode, and used a socket extension to wiggle it back and forth until the anode broke free from the tank. Then I used pliers to pull the entire assembly out in one piece.

I've attached a picture of the anode rod stuck and another with it out of the heater.

I will check the anode once a month if we ever use the camper full time as we have been for the past 6 months. Thanks for the quick responses and great ideas!
Congratulations! Having an anode unscrew from the plug, especially when it’s been doing it’s job and sacrificing itself (and expanding some in the process) isn’t unusual. On my Yanmars in my boat I have 12 zincs per engine. When replacing them I can count on at least 1/3 of them doing what your water heater anode did. Most of the time they let go and come out once you rethread the plug on and work it out. Rarely (but it has happened) I have had to work more on the stubborn zinc to get it out.

Happy New Year,

Joe
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Old 01-06-2022, 09:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
I bet you have a lot of debris build up in the bottom of that tank. You need to replace the thermostate cover as it looks like it's melted. I would get a tap and run it thru the hole and clean those threads. I do that once a year to keep them clean. A little grease in the tap flutes will catch the metal shavings.
Be a nice guy and mention the tap size. Is it NPT?
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Old 01-06-2022, 09:47 PM   #12
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3/4" NPT. don't forget to use teflon tape on the plug threads when you install
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Old 01-16-2022, 09:38 AM   #13
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3/4" NPT. don't forget to use teflon tape on the plug threads when you install
won't that defeat the purpose of the rod when electricity can't flow from the rod to the frame?
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Old 01-16-2022, 09:57 AM   #14
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I thought the same thing. But the friction of the threads will bite through the tape and make a connection. I carefully retapped the hole, cleaned the threads well. 3 wraps of Teflon tape, and snugged it up. The tape fills the gaps and prevents leaks so it doesn't have to be overly tight. Just enough to stop leaks. A small drip or 2 will self seal in a day or 2.
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Old 01-16-2022, 01:31 PM   #15
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The other alternative is a little mineral oil, which is what I use. Lore varies all over the place on teflon tape, as to whether it has actual sealant properties, or is just a lubricant that lets you tighten the joint more effectively yourself, given that the T in NPT stands for "tapered." The further you turn it the tighter it seals.
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Old 01-16-2022, 01:44 PM   #16
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If you read the Suburban manual, it specifically states to use Teflon tape. An ‘electrical’ connection is not needed. The pipe tap size is 3/4” X 14.
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Old 01-16-2022, 02:01 PM   #17
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If you read the Suburban manual, it specifically states to use Teflon tape.
Speaking of "lore all over the place," this is especially humorous... because I got the mineral oil instruction directly from Suburban's own video. But I see now they do say to follow it up with Teflon tape, so I guess I've been doing it wrong.
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:39 PM   #18
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Many if not most new anode rods come with Teflon tape pre-applied.
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:43 PM   #19
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If you're really "concerned" with the lack of electrical connection (metal to metal contact) between the threads of the anode rod and the tank fitting, demonstrate to yourself that there's no concern.... How ?? Just wrap 3 layers of Teflon tape on the anode threads, install it in the tank, then immediately remove it and see if there's any "visible metal" where the threads cut away the Teflon... I'd suspect you'll resolve all your "fears" with a quick glance at how well the tank fitting "cuts it way through the Teflon tape".....
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:53 PM   #20
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Also a simple continuity test with your multi-meter between the water heater and the anode will also put your doubts to rest.
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