Remote Control for Landing Gear

[BookPaul74]

Hello:
I used the remote that controls the slides, awning and lights and used to control the front landing gear. Everything else still works but I don’t get a click from the control panel hidden underneath the bathroom vanity. I pulled the cover and checked the fuses, all good. The awning works and the slides work.

The switch on the front works, just the remote doesn’t. The next campsite I’ll drop the fifth wheel so I can get into the front compartment to check wiring. But I figured I would get a click from the relays on the control panel.

[flybouy]

You'll get more/better responses if you share some information like the year and model of your trailer. Most folks add that and their tow vehicle info on their signature so it's always there when you ask a question.

[BookPaul74]

Originally Posted by flybouy

You'll get more/better responses if you share some information like the year and model of your trailer. Most folks add that and their tow vehicle info on their signature so it's always there when you ask a question.

I put it in my signature but don’t know how to get it to show.

2014 Keystone Cougar 337FLS
Has remote but doesn’t have the leveling system. 😕

[JRTJH]

If you could take a photo of your remote receiver (the part permanently installed in your passthrough or battery compartment), depending on the type, it may be a defective/broken remote receiver. There's a "work-around" to bypass the safety cut-out, but it really depends on which model you have. A photo would clear that up.

[BookPaul74]

Here you go.
Just a thought but the wires look long enough to remove it from the wall so it’s easier to work on.

[BookPaul74]

JRTJH. The quote didn’t go with it.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by BookPaul74

Here you go.
Just a thought but the wires look long enough to remove it from the wall so it’s easier to work on.

That looks like the installer there did a great job for his first day at electrical work!

[JRTJH]

Mine is a different model remote receiver, but similar in function.

First a little "theory of operation":

The remote receiver only operates when the "safety lockout" is functional. The purpose of the "safety lockout" is to prevent component damage from multiple system input sources... What that means in "plain English" is this:

There are two sources to activate each of the remote control inputs. One is the remote transmitter (hand held unit) and the other is the wall switches/buttons on the control panel in the trailer and a third is (for some components) a switch mounted close to the component (like the front landing gear)....

In "theory" if you're extending a slide with the remote hand held unit and someone pushes the "retract switch" on the control panel, you could "burn up the slide motor control" by asking it to extend AND retract at the same time.

The same goes for the front landing gear, the awning and even the lights (to an extent)....

So, the remote receiver (in your photo) has a "safety interlock" that only allows for one input at a time. The way it does that is to deactivate power to the manual side inputs when the remote hand held unit is active.

Now, with that, what's happened to your remote receiver (I think) is that the safety interlock has stopped functioning. If that's true (and I think it is) you have two choices.

First choice is to replace the remote receiver. You can often find one on EBay or other sources for around $250. Buying one from Lippert (the distributor of the system) is closer to $500-750.... That will "preserve the safety interlock system.

The other choice is to rewire the remote receiver to bypass the safety interlock so that "ALL INPUT SOURCES" are active at the same time.... If you are not prone to having several people opening/closing things at the same time, it's usually OK to eliminate the safety device. On the other hand, if you have several "always in a hurry type people doing things without checking" then it may be best to not even consider bypassing the safety interlock.....

Now, here is a photo of my remote receiver. Note the two input sources (4 wires) that I'm pointing to in the photo. Moving one set of those wires so that all four use the same +/- terminal will effectively bypass the remote safety interlock and allow all input sources (remote hand held unit AND any manual switches) to function at the same time.....

The issue is that if you elect to bypass the system's features, you do increase the risk of damaging your system IF two sources of input are used at the same time....

So, it's essentially up to you to determine whether to bypass the safety interlock. If you do, it's as simple as moving two wires. That will restore all manual switch functions and restore the remote handheld function, but without the safety interlock feature.....

On your system, I believe the wires you'd need to move are the sets next to the fuses. They are the "black/white" pair and the "red/red-white" pair.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by BookPaul74

Here you go.
Just a thought but the wires look long enough to remove it from the wall so it’s easier to work on.

I've often wondered? Do those guys get paid by the foot for wiring, by the self tapping screw, by the brad for trim & by the tube for caulk on the roof?

[BookPaul74]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Mine is a different model remote receiver, but similar in function.

First a little "theory of operation":

The remote receiver only operates when the "safety lockout" is functional. The purpose of the "safety lockout" is to prevent component damage from multiple system input sources... What that means in "plain English" is this:

There are two sources to activate each of the remote control inputs. One is the remote transmitter (hand held unit) and the other is the wall switches/buttons on the control panel in the trailer and a third is (for some components) a switch mounted close to the component (like the front landing gear)....

In "theory" if you're extending a slide with the remote hand held unit and someone pushes the "retract switch" on the control panel, you could "burn up the slide motor control" by asking it to extend AND retract at the same time.

The same goes for the front landing gear, the awning and even the lights (to an extent)....

So, the remote receiver (in your photo) has a "safety interlock" that only allows for one input at a time. The way it does that is to deactivate power to the manual side inputs when the remote hand held unit is active.

Now, with that, what's happened to your remote receiver (I think) is that the safety interlock has stopped functioning. If that's true (and I think it is) you have two choices.

First choice is to replace the remote receiver. You can often find one on EBay or other sources for around $250. Buying one from Lippert (the distributor of the system) is closer to $500-750.... That will "preserve the safety interlock system.

The other choice is to rewire the remote receiver to bypass the safety interlock so that "ALL INPUT SOURCES" are active at the same time.... If you are not prone to having several people opening/closing things at the same time, it's usually OK to eliminate the safety device. On the other hand, if you have several "always in a hurry type people doing things without checking" then it may be best to not even consider bypassing the safety interlock.....

Now, here is a photo of my remote receiver. Note the two input sources (4 wires) that I'm pointing to in the photo. Moving one set of those wires so that all four use the same +/- terminal will effectively bypass the remote safety interlock and allow all input sources (remote hand held unit AND any manual switches) to function at the same time.....

The issue is that if you elect to bypass the system's features, you do increase the risk of damaging your system IF two sources of input are used at the same time....

So, it's essentially up to you to determine whether to bypass the safety interlock. If you do, it's as simple as moving two wires. That will restore all manual switch functions and restore the remote handheld function, but without the safety interlock feature.....

On your system, I believe the wires you'd need to move are the sets next to the fuses. They are the "black/white" pair and the "red/red-white" pair.

Thanks for the information. I’m the ONLY person that runs any of the controls, if friends are with me they know not to touch anything if they want to keep their fingers. 😁

I have some friends that I’ll meet in mid-January at Quartzsite. They have a newer Solitude or Reflection with the self leveling system but not the remote for the slides and landing gear. I just wanted to show off a bit.

I’ll look into that the next time I decided to crawl underneath the bathroom sink. It would be handy to use if I ever mounted a backup camera on the toolbox in the bed so I can see the hitch.

[BookPaul74]

Originally Posted by flybouy

That looks like the installer there did a great job for his first day at electrical work!

I’ll take that over the guy that does the wires where they just reach. It’s easier to shorten them than to make them longer. 😁

I want to have a talk with the guy that made the cover for this. It’s a piece of paneling that they held in place and put a screw in each end. Good luck finding the holes, laying underneath the sink cabinet, on your side.

They did the same thing in the storage compartment to cover the plumbing and wires. I made a wedge by splitting a 4” piece of 2x4 with a 45 degree cut. Anchored it to the wall and then the piece of paneling. Goes back the same every time.

[BookPaul74]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

I've often wondered? Do those guys get paid by the foot for wiring, by the self tapping screw, by the brad for trim & by the tube for caulk on the roof?

I wish I would have taken a photo when I opened up the wall below the controls for everything. It’s in the hall with the bathroom on the opposite side. We were trying to run the wires down from the roof for the solar panels. We could see the wires and plumbing coming up under the kitchen cabinets and had found the controller underneath the bathroom sink. But could get the wires through Keystone holes they had used.

My friend helping freaked out when I started pulling trim and then the paneling lose from the studs. I have an air stapler and brad gun.

Most RVers have never looked behind the curtain in how these things are put together.

[flybouy]

Most RVers have never looked behind the curtain in how these things are put together."

It's enough to drive an OCD "neat freak" crazy!

[BookPaul74]

It's enough to drive an OCD "neat freak" crazy!

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[BookPaul74]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Most RVers have never looked behind the curtain in how these things are put together."

It's enough to drive an OCD "neat freak" crazy!

So true that’s why I’m my own repair shop.

[DanW]

If all fuses are good try swapping the landing gear relay for a known good relay. Just an easy check

[BookPaul74]

Originally Posted by DanW

If all fuses are good try swapping the landing gear relay for a known good relay. Just an easy check

I don’t think they are plugged in, I’m thinking solider in. I could switch wires around, I think it’s the yellow wire.

[BookPaul74]

So I’ve been researching the control board and on rvupgradesstore.com I found this and hope it helps with figuring out why the landing gear stopped working with the remote. I’m going to wait until I return home in April before digging into the too far. Don’t want to screw up what’s still working.

[BookPaul74]

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Electronics/Rmt_Control/Lippert/Lippert_Digital_Wireless_Remote_Control_Instructio ns_LIP_0146_revB.pdf