Installing a Solar System in a 2018 Cougar Travel Trailer

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by WJQ

In completing my inverter wiring, I removed the Keystone Battery Disconnect switch so I could look at the wall thickness on the front of the storage compartment. I wanted to mount somethin else on that panel. The thickness is about 1.8 of an inch.

However, I also found that the nuts on the disconnect switch are loose. It looks like the nuts were finger tight. The split ring lock washers are not compressed. This manufacturing error could easily cut off power at a very inopportune time and the fault would be hard to find.

While I can easily tighten the nuts, the question comes to mind, why do I need that switch? As many members already know, that switch does not cut off all power from the batteries. There are items that recieve power all of the time even when the trailer is in storage.

So, if it does not cut off all power, is there any reason I can't remove it?

That's an assembly error on Keystone, not a manufacturing error not the manufacturer of the disconnect switch. But to your question,if you have installed another disconnect then it becomes redundant. It can be removed but I'm guessing most leave it there and just don't use it.

[WJQ]

I agree that it was a Keystone assembly error. The "manufacturer error" was a poor choice of words.

For anyone choosing to follow this thread and install an inverter, I found a new challenge yesterday. I needed to remove some of the coroplast from the belly to find out where I could route the AC wiring. The advice I found for removing the "nails" using a crowbar and hammer did not work for me. I got advice from a Camping World service rep to us an "air hammer."

I was ready to go to Harbor Freight ($15) when a friend offered to lend me his. This works! It effectively breaks the nail off in 10 to 15 seconds. I will replace the nails with self tapping metal screws when I replace the coroplast.

In addition to removing the nails, I have had to cut the coroplast in places to get access. These cuts I will seal with Gorrilla tape or similar product.

[chuckster57]

Look for “Scrim tape”. It will adhere much better and last a LOT longer than gorilla tape.

[WJQ]

Thanks.

I found scrim tape at Amazon in 4 inch wide rolls. I could not find 2-inch width which I thought would be sufficient. Do you suggest using the 4-inch wide product?

I don't care about the cost. It just seems like 4-inch may be more difficult to handle.

[WJQ]

The Keystone battery ground wire connection is via a single number 12 self-tapping metal screw with a lock washer to the frame. The frame at this location is a steel tube approximately 2-inch by 6-inch (these dimensions are from memory as I am not at my storage area).

While this ground wire installation works, it seems like it could eventually loosen? I would prefer a bolted connection somewhere. Has anyone addressed this question?

One option I am considering is to drill through the tubular frame channel so I can insert a bolt.

Any other thoughts?

[flybouy]

I've never had the ground screw loosen. I've had plenty of the corrode and break off. I don't think thru bolting it would solve that issue. Simply removing it, cleaning it and reinstalling it would serve better IMO.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I've never had the ground screw loosen. I've had plenty of the corrode and break off. I don't think thru bolting it would solve that issue. Simply removing it, cleaning it and reinstalling it would serve better IMO.

Me either. They use a self tapping screw and a “star” washer that bites into the metal for better contact. I’ve seen them corroded but never loose.

[WJQ]

Thanks, it is nice to get your feedback on the grounding question. Still, I will try to find a better solution. As a minimum, I will look for a stainless steel screw to reduce/eliminate corroion.

It might be worth pointing out that automobile manufactures do not use self-taping screws for there grounding requirement. Proper grounding is a key aspect of electrical engineering.

Clearly, Keystone does not focus on quality solutions -- at least for this RV. As I proceed with this upgrade, I continue to find problems that should not exist. The latest quality issue is a wire bundle that is routed along the side of the frame and rides across the slide hardware with no protection against eventual damage to the wiring insulation.

How many slide in and out cycles before damage occurs? I do not know but neither does Keystone. Fixing this issue at the design and fabrication stage would be trivial.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by WJQ

Thanks, it is nice to get your feedback on the grounding question. Still, I will try to find a better solution. As a minimum, I will look for a stainless steel screw to reduce/eliminate corroion.

It might be worth pointing out that automobile manufactures do not use self-taping screws for there grounding requirement. Proper grounding is a key aspect of electrical engineering.

Clearly, Keystone does not focus on quality solutions -- at least for this RV. As I proceed with this upgrade, I continue to find problems that should not exist. The latest quality issue is a wire bundle that is routed along the side of the frame and rides across the slide hardware with no protection against eventual damage to the wiring insulation.

How many slide in and out cycles before damage occurs? I do not know but neither does Keystone. Fixing this issue at the design and fabrication stage would be trivial.

Comparing a travel trailer to an automobile is apples and oranges. Automotive battery cables corrode all the time. Walk into any auto parts store and you'll find racks of replacement cables for sale.

The auto industry uses pre made wiring looms with secure attachment points not because it's "better engineered" but that it expedites assembly. They have one goal, get it down the line with the minimum amount of man hours involved.

The reality of it is you bought an inexpensive light weight camper and not a million dollar class A motorcoach. It's also not a NASA project that costs millions of dollars/lb. You can "reengineer", "over engineer", and "redesign" to your heart's content if you want it's your time and money but blaming Keystone for not doing it is a broad statement. I'm not defending Keystone or any other manufacturer and I to get disgusted with the quality issues. However, it will never change as long as they fly off the lots and you have to realize that you bought a disposable toy.

[blubuckaroo]

Since we dry camp a lot, we use a coffee press. No electricity needed. The only real time we need an inverter is to watch TV. That’s easily handled with a little 100 watt plug-in inverter. An inverter big enough to run a microwave is nuts. Just turn on your little generator for a few minutes.

[DDuncan51]

Thank you for sharing this detailed information. I'm looking forward to how you end up routing the wiring.

[tanglemoose]

We have solar on our 2017 21rbswe cougar, 150 watts, 600 inverter. Love it, still using original batteries we purchased, 2 six volts. Go power solar set up. Did not install ourselves....

We are looking at 2021 cougar that has pre-wired solar and inverter and two outlets pre-wired....


I saw your post... any thoughts on the 2021... with all pre-wired and all...



Thanks...

[WJQ]

I know nothing about the 2021 wiring. My installation was/is a big job. I am near the end. The major effort is getting the wires where I want them.

Another member - mikec557 - is working on a 2020 with prewiring.

[WJQ]

I am near the end of this solar - inverter project. I now want to install my DC wiring from the inverter to the batteries. I would like to route the #1 AWG wires I am using between the thin paneling and the plastic/fiberglass cap.

I am starting at the location that Keyston placed the cutoff switch. This is about 19 inches from the sidewall and 14 inches from the storage compartment floor.

Keystone has installed 2 #6 AWG wires that are routed up from the top of the frame area for this switch. I have tried poking a stiff wire down but I seem to be hitting something like a piece of wood. From the cutoff switch hole to the bottom of the cap is only about 18 inches. If I can get through this, I am almost done. If anyone can offer advice on getting through, it will be great.

My other wire routing option is to drill a couple of wire size holes through the wood floor and come out under the frame and back up to the batteries. This will add about another foot to the wire with the associated voltage drop.

[roadglide]

Fully automatic from 3000 amp inverter to relay 14 gage wire runs 2 breaker near my refrigerator. Aims control switch inside above the volt meter on the wall.

[WJQ]

I have finished and it all works. However, I made a few modifications along the way. I will edit my priot posts if or when I can figure out how to do edit. If you are starting a similar project and need info soon, send me a message.

[WJQ]

There are a few things I will eventually add to this thread. However, here is some additional vendor info that will be useful to nearly anyone installing a similar system.

I bought a manual cable crimper from Amazon. As was pointed out in another post, trying to figure out the battery cable length from the inverter to the battery bank is a challenge. So, I decided on making my own cables. Here is the link for the crimper and inspite of a few negative reviews, I HAVE FOUND IT WORKS GREAT.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought mine a month ago for crimping 1 AWG cables. It came with a cable cutter which also works great. I will be revising some of the Keystone 6 AWG wiring and it covers that size just fine.

I bought my wire from http://acdcwire.com/ . It is welding cable and great quality at much lower cost than I foound elsewhere. You can also order it by the foot. I calculated my wire length at 5 feet for the red and black wire and then ordered 6 feet of each. I had had about 3 inches of red wire leftover and no black. So much for my calculations. There little things to consider such as installing a cutoff switch and a fuse that takes up more wire due to bends. I also ordered the lugs from ACDC Wire.

I also forgot to consider some additional wire to connect my two 6 volt batteries. It needs to be upgraded from the No. 6 AWG to 1 AWG. I will do this with a short length of size 2 AWG.

I just finished a 5 day camping & fishing trip and all works well. The Aims Inverter works great although my testing was limited to low power as I was sent a 60Amp fuse instead of a 250 amp fuse. I was using a Honda 2000 watt generator in the evenings to charge my trolling motor boat battery. The automatic transfer worked flawlessly when I started and stopped the generator. The TV and the Dish Wally reciever was operating during the changeover and did not notice the power source changerover from batteries to the "shore power" from the Honda generator.

So, if you want more info on this install, you can send me a private email. Once I have a littly more time and learn how to use this blog better, I will add some wiring diagrams and photos.

[roadglide]

Originally Posted by WJQ

There are a few things I will eventually add to this thread. However, here is some additional vendor info that will be useful to nearly anyone installing a similar system.

I bought a manual cable crimper from Amazon. As was pointed out in another post, trying to figure out the battery cable length from the inverter to the battery bank is a challenge. So, I decided on making my own cables. Here is the link for the crimper and inspite of a few negative reviews, I HAVE FOUND IT WORKS GREAT.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought mine a month ago for crimping 1 AWG cables. It came with a cable cutter which also works great. I will be revising some of the Keystone 6 AWG wiring and it covers that size just fine.

I bought my wire from http://acdcwire.com/ . It is welding cable and great quality at much lower cost than I foound elsewhere. You can also order it by the foot. I calculated my wire length at 5 feet for the red and black wire and then ordered 6 feet of each. I had had about 3 inches of red wire leftover and no black. So much for my calculations. There little things to consider such as installing a cutoff switch and a fuse that takes up more wire due to bends. I also ordered the lugs from ACDC Wire.

I also forgot to consider some additional wire to connect my two 6 volt batteries. It needs to be upgraded from the No. 6 AWG to 1 AWG. I will do this with a short length of size 2 AWG.

I just finished a 5 day camping & fishing trip and all works well. The Aims Inverter works great although my testing was limited to low power as I was sent a 60Amp fuse instead of a 250 amp fuse. I was using a Honda 2000 watt generator in the evenings to charge my trolling motor boat battery. The automatic transfer worked flawlessly when I started and stopped the generator. The TV and the Dish Wally reciever was operating during the changeover and did not notice the power source changerover from batteries to the "shore power" from the Honda generator.

So, if you want more info on this install, you can send me a private email. Once I have a littly more time and learn how to use this blog better, I will add some wiring diagrams and photos.

. Did you connect the microwave to your system? I was wondering if the batteries you had on board was enough to make it worth your while?