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10-29-2017, 04:30 AM
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#61
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caroljg
Hello again,
I am the full timer with the Cougar fifth wheel. We solved the problem of the sparking when reconnecting 40 amp fuses...........as the forum indicated this is normal.
What I cannot figure out is the lack of internal lighting when disconnected from pedestal.
They initially worked when I first bought rig, and up to about 6 months ago.
I tried the lights one day, after a five hour loss of power.....no lights. I checked the battery, and it was depleted...........charged it...........checked with multi-meter, and not holding a charge.........I bought a new battery....interstate......and it is installed correctly. No lights.
Any suggestions?
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2 things come to mind.
1. Is your battery disconnect engaged?
2. Did you take out all of the fuses and visually inspect them?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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11-01-2017, 07:32 PM
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#62
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: New Hope
Posts: 5
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New member here. Same problem as caroljg. No DC power. Inspected all fuzes, battery disconnect is engaged to connect. I don't get power when my 2011 Fusion Toy Hauler is conected to my 2008 Toyota Tundra truck either.
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11-02-2017, 03:29 AM
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#63
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thendric
New member here. Same problem as caroljg. No DC power. Inspected all fuzes, battery disconnect is engaged to connect. I don't get power when my 2011 Fusion Toy Hauler is conected to my 2008 Toyota Tundra truck either.
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Is your battery good? And charged? You need to check output with a multimeter. Or you could take it to a auto parts store to get it load tested.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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11-02-2017, 11:27 AM
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#64
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: New Hope
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbruce
Is your battery good? And charged? You need to check output with a multimeter. Or you could take it to a auto parts store to get it load tested.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
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Yes, brand new sealed, deep cycle battery. I "somehow" cooked the old battery. Overcharged and boiled out the water twice while the camper was plugged in by shoreline. Battery must have been connected? New Battery is fully charged. All is well EXCEPT nothing functions on DC.
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11-02-2017, 11:43 AM
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#65
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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The first thing that comes to mind is that the battery cables are reversed. On most trailers, white is NEG and black is POS. On some current model trailers, black is NEG and red is POS.... It's easy to get confused and if you touch the cables to the battery "backwards", even for an instant, you'll blow the reverse polarity fuses (40 amp) on the converter/power center. That will effectively prevent any 12 volt power to the trailer until the fuses are replaced.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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11-02-2017, 02:41 PM
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#66
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: New Hope
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
The first thing that comes to mind is that the battery cables are reversed. On most trailers, white is NEG and black is POS. On some current model trailers, black is NEG and red is POS.... It's easy to get confused and if you touch the cables to the battery "backwards", even for an instant, you'll blow the reverse polarity fuses (40 amp) on the converter/power center. That will effectively prevent any 12 volt power to the trailer until the fuses are replaced.
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Black and white cables properly affixed. In fact, previous owner wrapped red tape on the end of the pos (black) cable and black tape around the white (neg) cables. The 40 amp fuses are okay.
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11-02-2017, 04:20 PM
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#67
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tampa Bay Florida
Posts: 12
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The first thing that comes to mind is that the battery cables are reversed. On most trailers, white is NEG and black is POS. On some current model trailers, black is NEG and red is POS.... It's easy to get confused and if you touch the cables to the battery "backwards", even for an instant, you'll blow the reverse polarity fuses (40 amp) on the converter/power center. That will effectively prevent any 12 volt power to the trailer until the fuses are replaced.
Caroljg here.............40amps are fine, battery correctly connected. I have tried the battery disconnect in the on and the off position.......no lights.
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11-02-2017, 07:02 PM
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#68
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,692
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The battery cables to the distribution point and beyond can be checked with a VOM. A VOM is like a flashlight and can show you what you wouldn't normally see. They are invaluable IMO. They will tell you where you do and don't have battery. Have you utilized on in the attempt to find the loss of power?
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11-02-2017, 07:09 PM
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#69
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,347
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And a test light. I use the test light more than the VOM. You can go to the hardware store, buy a male plug end. Then just add a wire to the ground terminal. Your test light will have a clip on the end, plug the plug into ANY plug in the trailer, clip on the test light and probe the positive side on ANY circuit.
ALL grounds AC and DC are common.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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11-02-2017, 08:08 PM
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#70
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
And a test light. I use the test light more than the VOM. You can go to the hardware store, buy a male plug end. Then just add a wire to the ground terminal. Your test light will have a clip on the end, plug the plug into ANY plug in the trailer, clip on the test light and probe the positive side on ANY circuit.
ALL grounds AC and DC are common.
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Yep. ^^^ I spent years using the VOM as my method of chasing electrical issues. Had a break down in the middle of nowhere with my son....the first thing he asked was where my test light was.....I had only one and it was 200 miles away. I now carry them in most everything.
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11-03-2017, 02:31 AM
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#71
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,068
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Make sure you try to get power with the disconnect in both positions, off and on, as they may have something reversed there also.
__________________
2015 Ram,3500,Dually,B&W,4.10s,Aisin,Limited,Silver
2018 Raptor,428SP w/full body paint
2012 Harley, Ultra Limited
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11-05-2017, 05:54 PM
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#72
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: New Hope
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinner12002
Make sure you try to get power with the disconnect in both positions, off and on, as they may have something reversed there also.
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Gettin' old. Hadn't thought of this. My next step when I get a chance. Thanks!
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11-16-2017, 12:02 PM
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#73
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: New Hope
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinner12002
Make sure you try to get power with the disconnect in both positions, off and on, as they may have something reversed there also.
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Finally got to it. Power at the disconnect switch. Even replaced the cruddy breaker located on the tongue. No 12 volt to appliances. Off to the local shop to chase it down. Must be converter problem.....
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