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Old 05-04-2015, 05:05 PM   #21
b.d.keathley
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Will the 300w solar panels run an ac?
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Old 05-05-2015, 03:15 AM   #22
dave-g
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never-

1st you would need a inverter capable of 3000+ watts- the ac units will need 2000 watts to run- 3000+ watts to start e ac unit.
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Old 05-05-2015, 04:53 PM   #23
carlosjackal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave-g View Post
nice looking install. I have thought about this mod for a few years- mainly to keep the battery up while the unit is in storage. By I can not seem to get over cutting a hole in the roof, and screwing the panels down.

Funny- when I was 19 I cut a hole in the roof of my brand new pick up truck to install a sun roof. I guess a 52 I'm loosing my _alls.
hi Dave,

you can get the proper plastic brackets which glue on mate. That is what I did according to the suppliers recommendations. No need to put holes in the roof.

Cheers
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:57 AM   #24
AM1958
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I'm trying to work out if I'd need a 100 or 200W set up to be able to leave my fridge running on propane while it is storage... I can't find an authoritative answer to the power consumption of the fridge's controller board. Can anyone clue me in please?
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Old 05-06-2015, 03:12 PM   #25
mikell
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I direct wired my fridge with a switch to the batteries because with the main on you have the propane sensor and CO sensor and a dozen led's running all the time. I leave the main off and just the fridge running a lot of the time
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Old 05-06-2015, 04:09 PM   #26
AM1958
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So, are you saying with all other parasitic "bleeds" off the battery will run the fridge for at least two weeks on it's own?
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Old 05-07-2015, 02:14 AM   #27
dave-g
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I could not find good info- but the control system has a 3 amp fuse- so I would figure a max of 2 amps- volts (12) X amps (2)= watts (24). so if it runs 20 hours a day= 240 watts.
The best thing to do would be to put a amp meter on it and the batter to see what the amp draw is.

Also if staying in the camper- do not disconnect the lp and co sensors. they are safety devices there to save your life.
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