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Old 09-11-2020, 03:21 AM   #21
CU Tigers
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Question Anyone know?

Well if I switch wires over slide works flawlessly. Does anyone know if everything was working as normal if I was to unhook power to external switch of the board and put a volt meter on the wires would it show power? Or is power transfered between the 2 sets. I'm wanting to think that it comes from battery side wires since switches originally work if not hooked to shore power. Can anyone confirm?
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Old 09-11-2020, 05:40 AM   #22
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I did put my make and model on profile. Are you talking about somewhere else? I figured with post stating I contacted LCI which is part of Lipperts and pics I thought it would be seen that its the multifunction board. Do I need to add somewhere else?

Robby, at top left of each page in the thin black bar is UserCP; click on it and add your signature. Few will look up your profile when you post a question.
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Old 09-11-2020, 06:00 AM   #23
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I think what you're asking is: Does the remote control/slide switch interface remove power from the idle circuit when the other circuit is active?

The answer is no. There is still voltage present at the switch when the remote is opening/closing the slide. There is a relay "on the remote control receiver" that disables the switch input "AT THE REMOTE RECEIVER" but the voltage still leaves the manual switch and goes to the relay on the remote receiver where it is "dead ended"....

By switching over those two wires on the remote receiver, you're bypassing that "safety relay" and the voltage from the manual switch is "applied directly to the slide motor if you or anyone else should press the manual switch while the remote switch is active... In other words, if you're "extending the slide" using the remote and someone presses the manual switch to 'extend" the slide, the remote receiver will get two "extend inputs".. No damage done. On the other hand, if you're "extending the slide" using the remote and someone presses the manual switch to "RETRACT" the slide, then the remote receiver (and the slide motor) receives both POS and NEG voltage (direct short) on both poles of the slide motor (and the contacts on the remote receiver) which "COULD" short out and destroy the remote receiver and/or the slide motor.

As long as you and everyone else around the trailer knows DO NOT PUSH THE MANUAL SWITCHES FOR ANYTHING while the trailer remote system is in use, you're golden....

I used my Cougar in that status for almost a year before the dealership received the replacement remote receiver from Keystone to change it out under warranty. Honestly, at this point in time, with a 7-8 year old trailer, I would not spend the money to keep replacing the remote receiver ($400-500) just to have that "safety backup"... It's just me and DW, and she knows not to touch anything while we are setting up the trailer or tearing it down to depart. We BOTH talk to each other before even turning on a light or disconnecting a cable or hose during setup/teardown. So, for us, if our remote were to malfunction again, I'd just move the two wires and keep on camping.

It's up to you whether to continue chasing a "backup system malfunction" or to just use the trailer without the backup....
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Old 09-11-2020, 06:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I think what you're asking is: Does the remote control/slide switch interface remove power from the idle circuit when the other circuit is active?

The answer is no. There is still voltage present at the switch when the remote is opening/closing the slide. There is a relay "on the remote control receiver" that disables the switch input "AT THE REMOTE RECEIVER" but the voltage still leaves the manual switch and goes to the relay on the remote receiver where it is "dead ended"....

By switching over those two wires on the remote receiver, you're bypassing that "safety relay" and the voltage from the manual switch is "applied directly to the slide motor if you or anyone else should press the manual switch while the remote switch is active... In other words, if you're "extending the slide" using the remote and someone presses the manual switch to 'extend" the slide, the remote receiver will get two "extend inputs".. No damage done. On the other hand, if you're "extending the slide" using the remote and someone presses the manual switch to "RETRACT" the slide, then the remote receiver (and the slide motor) receives both POS and NEG voltage (direct short) on both poles of the slide motor (and the contacts on the remote receiver) which "COULD" short out and destroy the remote receiver and/or the slide motor.

As long as you and everyone else around the trailer knows DO NOT PUSH THE MANUAL SWITCHES FOR ANYTHING while the trailer remote system is in use, you're golden....

I used my Cougar in that status for almost a year before the dealership received the replacement remote receiver from Keystone to change it out under warranty. Honestly, at this point in time, with a 7-8 year old trailer, I would not spend the money to keep replacing the remote receiver ($400-500) just to have that "safety backup"... It's just me and DW, and she knows not to touch anything while we are setting up the trailer or tearing it down to depart. We BOTH talk to each other before even turning on a light or disconnecting a cable or hose during setup/teardown. So, for us, if our remote were to malfunction again, I'd just move the two wires and keep on camping.

It's up to you whether to continue chasing a "backup system malfunction" or to just use the trailer without the backup....
Thanks for your info John. Thank goodness that the board with a new remote only cost me 120 since board was discontinued and upgraded to blade fuses. Unfortunately I'm thinking the board they sent me is defective or I shorted something out. They are sending me out another board and will be here tomorrow. On volt meter I do get 0.3 volts so some current is there. How is power transfered to rocker switches when not on shore power? Just wondering.
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Old 09-11-2020, 06:23 AM   #25
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On my trailer, the slide switches are wired to the battery with a direct connection (through a 30 amp mini-breaker in the front compartment). The remote receiver is also hard wired to that same mini-breaker. In other words, on my trailer, there is a physical wire that runs from the battery + terminal to the slide switches and another wire from the slide switch to ground... Same with the remote receiver.

The OEM wiring does NOT go through the OEM battery cutoff switch, but I wired a "total system cutoff switch" at the battery negative cable, that completely disconnects the battery from the trailer electrical system.
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Old 09-11-2020, 08:08 AM   #26
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Recommend you provide more information. Add your trailer year/model into your signature to help identify equipment.

Your story sort of jumps into the middle of the issue. You start out with "a wire that shorted out and burnt something" but no explanation - if we know what started the issue, it would help. Have you checked THAT wiring (the part that shorted out)? What are the circled components and why are you drawing attention to them?

Not trying to be hard to get along with - trying to help you present your problem in a way that we can better understand. Kiind of step us through the problem from start to present time. Lots of experienced users here who are likely to help once they understand the issue.

Good luck!
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Old 09-11-2020, 08:56 AM   #27
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Recommend you provide more information. Add your trailer year/model into your signature to help identify equipment.

Your story sort of jumps into the middle of the issue. You start out with "a wire that shorted out and burnt something" but no explanation - if we know what started the issue, it would help. Have you checked THAT wiring (the part that shorted out)? What are the circled components and why are you drawing attention to them?

Not trying to be hard to get along with - trying to help you present your problem in a way that we can better understand. Kiind of step us through the problem from start to present time. Lots of experienced users here who are likely to help once they understand the issue.

Good luck!
Sorry thank you for your advice. 2011 Cougar 5th wheel model 276RLS. . Problem started at beach. I had to fix something and lowered the black winterizing underbelly. When I went to tack it back up the wires to the motor had dropped down and I drill through it. Didn't know it until when I tried to retract the slide in to leave and it wouldn't work. Manually retracted it. I could actually smell a burnt electrical smell in front compartment so I knew something has fried. I order another board but still no power. Red circles in pic is the wires I'm getting no power to and the auto reset fuses I replaced also trying to narrow down problem. My guess is something is defective in this new board/receiver. Its like It's stuck in "failsafe" mode. I'm just unsure if power was always running on external switch wires or if something opens and transfers power from battery wires over to power things since things work off battery if no shore power.
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Old 09-11-2020, 09:29 AM   #28
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I'm not familiar with your control/remote system but it sounds like you are getting no output from that system. I assume the two relays shown in the left picture are for slides or awnings and you do not get 12V output from the circled pins. I also assume you have confirmed no output with your VOM?

When you replaced the old board, did you find evidence of the short? Burned wires, etc.? If you could smell it, I would assume this was a dead short on the high current power side of the relay control - you should have found burned wires and insulation, correct? Is it possible there is additional burned wiring downstream of the controller, headed back toward the slide motor?

Are you certain that the slide motor & mechanism is operable? Is it possible your dead short after drilling through the wires then attempting to use them has caused the motor to fail? Can you temporarily apply 12V to the slide motor to get it to move (note, this will be a significant load, so use an appropriate fused power supply)? Once you confirm the slide motor works, then go back and try to jumper power to the output of your control system - again make sure you are using an appropriately fused power supply. If everything downstream of the control board is confirmed as working, then you are correct, it has to be the control board.

You mentioned "failsafe" mode - assume there are some conditions under which the remote will not operate (e.g. plugged in to tow vehicle and potentially driving down the road). Can you confirm that all such failsafe conditions have been cleared? Have you done an electrical reset? Is the battery disconnect on/off?

Could the short circuit have damaged an older battery? Do you have more than one battery? Have you checked their status? (Slides commonly won't work with a dead or dying battery, even with shore power.)

Sorry I can't be more help. Maybe at this point other users who are familiar with your controll system can jump in to the discussion.
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Old 09-11-2020, 09:58 AM   #29
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The red circled wires are the external switch power wires, other set is the battery power wires. I have actually changed batteries and I did jump wire from battery terminal over to switches and everything works as it should, but of course remote doesn't then cause I removed power to it. Wires look like it had grounded to frame where I drilled through it. Section removed and spliced back together. What are you meaning when you say electrical reset? I disconnected battery and other power and waited for roughly 5 minutes, even removing wires from board. All fuses have been checked for continuity and no problems found. I haven't located any other circuit breakers besides the auto reset ones and those where replaced also. I have taken all lights and what ever panels and drawers off/removed and havent located any fuses or circuit breakers
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Old 09-11-2020, 01:35 PM   #30
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It certainly sounds like you have touched all the bases and that the problem is your control board. Hopefully, someone who is familiar with that system will respond.
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Old 09-11-2020, 01:49 PM   #31
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If not I will know if it is tomorrow cause new board will be here. Thank you for you help and advice. Fingers are crossed.
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Old 09-17-2020, 08:10 AM   #32
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Any updates?
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Old 09-17-2020, 08:55 AM   #33
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Wiredgeorge If he doesn't meet your criteria for help let someone else who cares herlp him
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Old 09-17-2020, 09:23 AM   #34
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Wiredgeorge If he doesn't meet your criteria for help let someone else who cares herlp him
George was trying to help him by suggesting that he add more information to his posts. What's not helpful is making unwarranted comments like yours.
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Old 09-17-2020, 12:25 PM   #35
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Check gfi receptacal in bathroom you may have to text and reset
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Old 09-17-2020, 01:59 PM   #36
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Update

After having the company send me another receiver board and exchanging turns out that the 1st board that was sent is defective. Thanks everyone for all the advice and suggestions.
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Old 09-17-2020, 03:15 PM   #37
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Wiredgeorge If he doesn't meet your criteria for help let someone else who cares herlp him

Ferry, He wasn't clear on the make/model of his camper nor what component he was referring to. See you can't be bothered to put your camper / TV info in a signature so when you ask for help.... well expect to play 20 questions. There's those that do try and help folks and can't remember you ever helping anyone with anything so see ya'll on the flip side!
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