Getting an inverver

[Poppy]

in the past couple of weeks I’ve been thinking about getting an inverter.
I don’t intended to use it for solar, but for my compressor and maybe my outdoor kitchen refrigerator. The more I look at them, the more confused I get.
I thought a 200 watt inverter would be enough, then the salesman started talking about sine wave inverter. HUH!
Someone else told me I needed to look at amps, not watts. ?????
Okay, the compressor mount says 3.0 amps, the manual says 2.8, the inverter says 3.1. I don’t know about the fridge, amps or watts.
Someone else says 200 watts isn’t big enough.
Where do I stop.
Can someone explain this in plain English for a simple minded man?

[chuckster57]

Watts is amps multiplied by volts.

https://www.thecalculatorsite.com/co...s.php#content1

Add up the total amps and then using the conversion table you can determine watts needed. 200W isn’t that much, but I don’t know what your little fridge draws. It should have that information on a tag. Your compressor will draw 3 amps when running, it might draw more when starting up.

The link I provided should give you a good starting point.

[notanlines]

Poppy, your 3.1 amp 120 volt compressor will draw 372 watts (on paper). In the real world, this will require a bare minimum of a 500 watt inverter. Anything less and the inverter will simply automatically cycle off as soon as the compressor starts. As Chuckster just posted, this thing will draw more amps on startup.
The sine wave inverter is recommended if using electronic equipment, not compressors or refrigerators.
Personally, I'd be headed towards a 750. Go big or stay home, along those lines.

[Poppy]

That’s the kind of information I was looking for. Thanks guys! I knew I could count on you.
I’m not sure if I’d use it for the fridge. My first thought was just the compressor. Then a friend said he used his for the fridge.
He only uses a 12 volt compressor for the tires, but I use a larger one to blow the water from the lines to winterize, and there’s no electricity supplied to the storage.
I haven’t seen any info on the fridge, so I don’t know it’s requirement

[NH_Bulldog]

My outdoor kitchen refrigerator says it draws .8 amps at 115v AC. That equates to 92 watts (or 100 watts rounding up). A pure sine wave inverter is best for sensitive electronics like a television or anything with a circuit board, but is not needed for something like an outdoor kitchen refrigerator or a compressor. If battery reserve capacity is a concern It is important not to go too big on the inverter so that you are not having extra unused energy sitting around. DC power is much more efficient than AC so converting DC to excess AC is a waste.

[Essvar]

To run those items you'll also need a Pure SineWave inverter, a modified sine wave will not work because of the surge load. That's the other thing to consider when running compressors and refridgerators, the surge load can be 3x the running load.



If your inverter doesn't have an extra few seconds of surge load capacity you'll be resetting it every time the fridge kicks on. (I know because I tried a 750 Watt Modified Sine with my outdoor minifridge)


Check out DonRowe they are awesome to deal with and have any and all inverters, if you have questions just give them a call (a real person from Oregon will answer the phone)



https://www.donrowe.com/Default.asp

[Javi]

My Avalanche came with a WF-5110R True Sine Wave Inverter to run my Samsung refrigerator.. it is a 1000 Watt

•Pure Sine Wave Output (THD less than 3%)
•1000 Watt Continuous Output Power
•2000 Watt Surge Capability to Handle Compressor/Motor Startup
•12 Amp Resettable Circuit Breaker on AC Output
•Greater than 86% Efficiency at Full Load
•Automatically Resettable Reverse Polarity Protection
•Load Controlled Cooling Fan Enhances Efficiency
•Remote Switch and 20 Foot Cable are Included as Standard Equipment
•Remote Switch Allows Manual On/Off Control and Displays Operation Mode
•Direct AC Pass-Through When Shore or Generator Power Present
•LED Indicators on Front Panel Show System Status
•Front Panel Digital Display Shows System Parameters
•Internal Transfer Switch Can Switch Up to a 20 Amp AC Load
•Less than 50 Millisecond Transfer Time on WF-5110R Startup/Shutdown
•Protected Against Overload, Short Circuit, Reverse Battery Polarity, Over/Under Input Voltage, and Over Temperature
•Listings Include UL 458 and FCC Class B
•2-Year Limited Warranty

[Poppy]

Originally Posted by Essvar

To run those items you'll also need a Pure SineWave inverter, a modified sine wave will not work because of the surge load. That's the other thing to consider when running compressors and refridgerators, the surge load can be 3x the running load.



If your inverter doesn't have an extra few seconds of surge load capacity you'll be resetting it every time the fridge kicks on. (I know because I tried a 750 Watt Modified Sine with my outdoor minifridge)


Check out DonRowe they are awesome to deal with and have any and all inverters, if you have questions just give them a call (a real person from Oregon will answer the phone)




https://www.donrowe.com/Default.asp

Since a big majority ac motors require more juice at startup than at run time, I would have thought most inverters would have a little surge time. If that’s the case, would I still need pure sine wave or would modified be good enough?
I’m not planning to use it on electronics.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Poppy

Since a big majority ac motors require more juice at startup than at run time, I would have thought most inverters would have a little surge time. If that’s the case, would I still need pure sine wave or would modified be good enough?
I’m not planning to use it on electronics.

If the cost difference isn’t that much, I would opt for the pure sine wave. Better have a feature and not need it.

[Essvar]

Originally Posted by Poppy

Since a big majority ac motors require more juice at startup than at run time, I would have thought most inverters would have a little surge time. If that’s the case, would I still need pure sine wave or would modified be good enough?
I’m not planning to use it on electronics.

With what you are wanting to run I’d recommend a 1000w pure sine with a 2 second surge. I can promise you a modified will not work. The spec on Javi’s inverter is solid for what you need. I did find one with the same specs at DonRowe for $250
https://www.donrowe.com/wagan-3804-pure-line-1000w-12v-inverter-p/wag1000pl.htm

[German Shepherd Guy]

Also be aware that you will need to up your battery storage if you have no way to replenish at the storage unit. (You mentioned there was no electric) Refrigerators and compressors will pull a lot of stored electric from the batteries. So make sure when you park it at the storage lot your batteries are topped off. Might want to consider true deep cycle batteries if what you are using are the "RV/Boat" type batteries.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by German Shepherd Guy

Also be aware that you will need to up your battery storage if you have no way to replenish at the storage unit. (You mentioned there was no electric) Refrigerators and compressors will pull a lot of stored electric from the batteries. So make sure when you park it at the storage lot your batteries are topped off. Might want to consider true deep cycle batteries if what you are using are the "RV/Boat" type batteries.

Plus a generator &/or solar to keep the batteries topped off or you may find yourself with dead batteries, no slide motors, no landing gears, no hot water, no lights, nothing 12 volt.
I agree the typical marine cranking type batteries most RV dealers provide won't hold up too long to continuous discharges.

[Poppy]

I picked up a new 1500 watt power inverter with 3000 peak from HF. I don’t have it hooked up, yet. I didn’t want to mount it permanently, so I’m still working on that. It’ll probably be Monday before I get it done.
I did look at a used one like it, and considered getting it. It worked with a dremel rotary tool, but when he plugged in a dremel cutter (with a circular saw type blade) it sounded the alarm. That tool was rated 6 amps and the wiring looked to be speaker size.
When I got home, I found out that inverter calls for 2 awg wiring. I figured that was probably the reason for failure.
Anyway, I’m considering going back for it and returning the new one.
BTW, my plans are now only to use it for the compressor to help with tire pressure and to blow out the water lines for winter.
After that, I’ll pull the battery, hook to a float charger and store in my heated garage.