Need electrical help please…

[Getn off]

Ok, first off, this problem is with my 2020 Cyclone, but posting in here because you guys/gals are so much more helpful than the Heartland forum!

Been out camping for 3 weeks now, 4th location today. Set up camp as usual. About 2 hours after we are now just chillin watching TV while it rains (50A service and all 3 ACs going), then we hear a small noise. Sounded like someone threw a rock at the front of our trailer. About 2 mins later, all A/C goes out and we are “dark.” I immediately suspect shore power so I look outside and see my ems on the power pole reads all normal and no E codes.
Now even more curious, I check all fuses and breakers. All normal. I read my power wall and it says “0” Amp service!
I go into the forward pit to check the electronics bay—backside of the breaker panel et al. Everything looks normal. No smells, or even and water (from the rain). Confused, I slam the slam latch door back closed and bam! All power back to normal.
Late now, so in the am I am planning to check tightness of all connections by removing the wall and such.
Suspected the APS, but that wouldn’t drop by itself without switching to gen would it? And I wasn’t using the gen. Literally nothing changed when it happened…barring an AC maybe kicking back on?
I am not aware of any other automatic breakers that might allow this. Is there?
I am glad its back to normal, but afraid it wont last.

So, in a nutshell, shore power normal. AC drops out for about 7 mins then returns, possibly by itself/possibly by the jarring action of the slam door.
Anyone have any ideas here? I am stumped. Oh, and my VOM is teets up this trip! Also, had several “brown outs” last park (line 1 as low as 105V) where my Progressive EMS dropped the service to protect the rv. Not sure if related.
Thanks a million!
Troy

[chuckster57]

Just a WAG but I’m thinking transfer switch.

[wiredgeorge]

My BIL has a Class that has been parked on our property for about 6 weeks now. They are staying in it till their new house on the other side of the lake is finished. The Class C is new and they had their transfer switch smoke. Neutral wire burned and they had no power in their camper till we figured out this was the case. Basically bypassed the transfer switch and go direct into the breakers now. They will get the transfer switch and several other issues fixed by a dealer once they move into their house.

[Getn off]

But would a faulty transfer switch, switch all by itself without any changes? I just cant see it click off, then back on by itself. And yes, I do understand the definition of “automatically!” Lol
I would assume ATS if I switched the gen on or something.
Everything about this I can find online turned out to be a faulty switch in the roll up power cord unit. Don’t have one of them.
Confused….
Troy

[chuckster57]

I’ve seen some ATS units do weird stuff.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Getn off

Ok, first off, this problem is with my 2020 Cyclone, but posting in here because you guys/gals are so much more helpful than the Heartland forum!

Been out camping for 3 weeks now, 4th location today. Set up camp as usual. About 2 hours after we are now just chillin watching TV while it rains (50A service and all 3 ACs going), then we hear a small noise. Sounded like someone threw a rock at the front of our trailer. About 2 mins later, all A/C goes out and we are “dark.” I immediately suspect shore power so I look outside and see my ems on the power pole reads all normal and no E codes.
Now even more curious, I check all fuses and breakers. All normal. I read my power wall and it says “0” Amp service!
I go into the forward pit to check the electronics bay—backside of the breaker panel et al. Everything looks normal. No smells, or even and water (from the rain). Confused, I slam the slam latch door back closed and bam! All power back to normal.
Late now, so in the am I am planning to check tightness of all connections by removing the wall and such.
Suspected the APS, but that wouldn’t drop by itself without switching to gen would it? And I wasn’t using the gen. Literally nothing changed when it happened…barring an AC maybe kicking back on?
I am not aware of any other automatic breakers that might allow this. Is there?
I am glad its back to normal, but afraid it wont last.

So, in a nutshell, shore power normal. AC drops out for about 7 mins then returns, possibly by itself/possibly by the jarring action of the slam door.
Anyone have any ideas here? I am stumped. Oh, and my VOM is teets up this trip! Also, had several “brown outs” last park (line 1 as low as 105V) where my Progressive EMS dropped the service to protect the rv. Not sure if related.
Thanks a million!
Troy

I wonder if you disconnect the shore power and change it to generator and listen inside for the transfer switch to kick in…see if it’s the same noise you heard…not sure about the transfer switch relay ..whether it’s energized all the time with shore power (not likely) or energizes with generator.
I was thinking of the relay was not pulling in all the way and you slammed the hatch door it could have helped it make contact…I’ve had air conditioning relays get bugs or debris in the contacts and not make a good connection many times before.

That’s a long shot though

I would inspect your shore power cable

[Getn off]

Makes sense except for the fact that it dropped without any intervention. As well as came back without…well possibly a jolt might have done it.
I am having trouble understanding how it would disco all by itself I guess.
I thought of trying to start the gen and see if it transfers ok, but don’t cause I figure, what if it doesn’t…then I’m screwed! Lol
Troy

[JRTJH]

You've got to start troubleshooting somewhere or else you stand the chance of it happening again and slamming the compartment door may not "fix it"...

If you're in the middle of a trip and don't want to risk troubleshooting and causing it to fail, I completely understand the reluctance. On the other hand, once you get it home, troubleshooting would start (IMHO) by starting the generator and checking that the transfer switch functions normally....

Sooner or later, you (or a trusted RV technician) will need to "take that plunge"... If timing is not good right now, delay the risk. If you're home this afternoon and unloading, there's probably no better time to have it fail than when you don't have to rely on it the rest of the week.....

[Getn off]

Agreed. That is why I am planning to wait until I get home this week. I do have 30A so I can troubleshoot with shore and gen power.
Glad it hasn’t shown back up, but it will be a pain to diagnose unless it is an obvious burned connector issue.
Troy

[flybouy]

Certianly sounds like the transfer switch to me. It's basically ablatching relay and they can mechanically bind if dirty or worn or they stick on or not "stay latched" if the contacts are pitted. Typically first "test" when suspecting a relay issue is to lightly tap it with a screwdriver handle. I'm guessing your "screwdriver handle test" was slamming the hatch. Check it out as if the fontacts are pitted it can cause a b8ild up of heat. If the armarure of the relay "hang-up" it can cause the coil to overheat and fail.