Winter Living

[edc457]

I have a 2017 Sprinter 316BIK with Arctic package. Can I live in it during the winter while I'm building a new home?

[flybouy]

First will the local code allow you to put a trailer on site as a temporary residence? Many localities will not, others will only if it meets BOCA codes. Next question, will you have electric, water, and sewer available?

The "Arctic Pkg" is a sales pitch. In cold climates in the North East you will need LOTS of propane to feed the furnace. Electric heat will not keep the belly (where the water lines are) warm enough. You will also need a heated water supply hose and tank heaters for the gray and black tanks. Contact a local propane business and have them install a large tank and have them "Autofill" the tank.

I would set up blocks to support the frame by building block piers to support the trailer for months of setting in one place. Skirting around the bottom of the trailer to the ground will help reduce some of the drafts inside. This is what instantly comes to mind, I may have missed something.

[edc457]

Thank you Sir., That is very helpful.

[JRTJH]

Some "hearty pioneers" have weathered extremely cold weather for a while in an RV. Most have either "endured the uncomfortable conditions" or have "experienced frozen plumbing that ended the experiment" and moved from the trailer to an apartment or a friend/relative's basement around the "mid-winter point"...

Can it be done? Yes

Will it be "like living in a small (properly insulated) apartment? Far from it....

Most RV's are currently advertised as built with "arctic package", "Tundra tested", "Polar package" or some other "sales gimmick"....

In reality, the amount of energy required to keep them warm and functional during weather extremes makes them "a global warming nightmare".... in other words, most RV's aren't much warmer than a quality tent when the weather turns "really nasty"....

[wiredgeorge]

Skirting will be your friend. They do make RV skirting but you might figure out how to make your own. Add a few incandescent flood lamps (do they still make these?) and you may be able to ward off frozen pipes.

[notanlines]

Edwaard, your city averages 7 nights per winter when the temp drops below zero. If it drops that low you WILL freeze the heated water line, you will REQUIRE forced air electric heater(s) in the area above the coroplast. What was said above is on the money! It will be a long winter.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Some "hearty pioneers" have weathered extremely cold weather for a while in an RV. Most have either "endured the uncomfortable conditions" or have "experienced frozen plumbing that ended the experiment" and moved from the trailer to an apartment or a friend/relative's basement around the "mid-winter point"...

Can it be done? Yes

Will it be "like living in a small (properly insulated) apartment? Far from it....

Most RV's are currently advertised as built with "arctic package", "Tundra tested", "Polar package" or some other "sales gimmick"....

In reality, the amount of energy required to keep them warm and functional during weather extremes makes them "a global warming nightmare".... in other words, most RV's aren't much warmer than a quality tent when the weather turns "really nasty"....

Originally Posted by notanlines

Edwaard, your city averages 7 nights per winter when the temp drops below zero. If it drops that low you WILL freeze the heated water line, you will REQUIRE forced air electric heater(s) in the area above the coroplast. What was said above is on the money! It will be a long winter.

Love all “expert” responses by those that likely never spent a night below 40 degrees in their rigs.
We full time in the 5er in our signature, have seen snow, freezing rain, wind temperatures to the high teens. No frozen water lines, I do have an electric add on unit to my furnace, that is main source of heat. You can also get a 100# propane tank also. Our 5er came with tank heaters, and I did enclose the belly with some insulation. Skirting will help, but not necessarily needed.

[Scttw]

Good replies ...... The arctic pkg is R28, according my brochure. But I'd suggest putting a space heater in the water room if you don't want water pipes to freeze. This will add extra heat even though there is a open pipe in there. You will definitely need extra heaters to warm everything all through. The 100 pound suggestion above is a great idea. Or 300 is better

[rhagfo]

I also keep remote temperature sensor in the basement on the water pipes, the lowest I have seen on that sensor is 45 degrees. Best to know than guess.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Scttw

Good replies ...... The arctic pkg is R28, according my brochure. But I'd suggest putting a space heater in the water room if you don't want water pipes to freeze. This will add extra heat even though there is a open pipe in there. You will definitely need extra heaters to warm everything all through. The 100 pound suggestion above is a great idea. Or 300 is better

R28? Is that measured under a blanket on the bed? Does it have thermopane windows?

[Scttw]

Originally Posted by flybouy

R28? Is that measured under a blanket on the bed? Does it have thermopane windows?

Not sure about the windows ......

R28 is the roof - R40 is the floors actually ..... here are some details. The only thing I'm not sure about is if all trailers are made the same as the Alpine with the Arctic package .....

[hankaye]

Howdy;

A fella on here several years ago wrote an interesting posting about how he did his
RV for baby-sitting windswept oil fields where the temps dive into the -'s on a regular
basis. My self, I lived a few winters in Central Utah with temps in the -30's and a few -40's. geo went full bore with his set-up, me not as in depth. Here's a link to geo's way.
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=19807
Now is the time to get it done.

Best of luck with your venture and happy home building.

hank

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Scttw

Not sure about the windows ......

R28 is the roof - R40 is the floors actually ..... here are some details. The only thing I'm not sure about is if all trailers are made the same as the Alpine with the Arctic package .....

Walls are R10 so it really doesn't matter what the ceiling or floor is. I do notice the ceiling and floor ratings have an asterisk but no footnote explaining why. My advice stands, have lots of propane and some extra blankets ready. It's a camper not a house and EVERY surface is exposed to the wind. That ceiling space doesn't have hundreds of cubic feet of space between the ceiling and roof.

[wiredgeorge]

Wonder if anyone knowledgeable has test the insulation claims that Keystone makes? R28 in the ceiling? R40 in the floor? Wow, that is better than can be done in many homes with 2x6 framing. The ratings given where cumulative with all the things noted such as the carpet, padding and the 6 layer "bedrock" floor system? How much insulation is really there... just feel they tout these things the same way the "1/2 ton towable" hype is thrown around.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Wonder if anyone knowledgeable has test the insulation claims that Keystone makes? R28 in the ceiling? R40 in the floor? Wow, that is better than can be done in many homes with 2x6 framing. The ratings given where cumulative with all the things noted such as the carpet, padding and the 6 layer "bedrock" floor system? How much insulation is really there... just feel they tout these things the same way the "1/2 ton towable" hype is thrown around.

That floor rating must include the wool socks and winter boots you need to wear. I don't think they count the doors and windows as part of the walls either. Even a double pane trailer window can't come close to R28 and the 1" thick door certainly doesn't unless they are using some doors and windows designed for the space station. Of course I say these things in jest but these sort of claims are laughable. Like the 1/2 ton towable they are intended to sell a product at the expense of the uninitiated or inexperienced public.

[jasin1]

I would imagine if you shot the trailer with a thermal camera in the winter it would look like a glowing meteor…heat escaping from every wall,window ,door and outlet lol

[daveinaz]

If you have the arctic package with heat in the belly where the pipes and tanks are, yes,y you can. Our Montana has the polar package and I recently stayed in Texas during its cold snap where the power was out. Ran the furnace off propane and battery. It’s doable but since I didn’t know how long the power was going to be off, I set the thermostat to only 45-50 during that time.

Before the power went out, I used electric heaters as long as the temperature was above 30. But like has been said, when it gets below freezing you have to run the furnace to keep the underbelly heated where the pipes and tanks are.


I think it’s doable, but not comfortable.

[TammyStacy]

Can anyone on here give any advice to a first time RV owner planning to live at least 1 year in the camper. We have some colder weather and I am trying to find the best option to keep my in coming water from freezing. Should we buy a water hose and a heat tape or just a heated water hose? What brand has worked well for you>

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by TammyStacy

Can anyone on here give any advice to a first time RV owner planning to live at least 1 year in the camper. We have some colder weather and I am trying to find the best option to keep my in coming water from freezing. Should we buy a water hose and a heat tape or just a heated water hose? What brand has worked well for you>

In addition to the heated hose, you'll also need to provide heat/insulation to the faucet, upright water pipe (down to the freeze level in the ground) and to the actual connection on the side of the trailer.

Some "heated hoses" only provide heat to the actual vinyl part of the hose and leave the connections at each end "unprotected". Some other types do provide a means to heat the ends, including the faucet and the trailer connector.

Some people elect to use, as an example, a 25' standard RV hose and a 35' thermostat controlled heat tape. They run the heat tape next to the hose and enclose the entire thing in "pipe wrap". That leaves enough heat tape outside the insulation to wrap the faucet and protect the trailer connector.

There are several types of pipe insulation available. Some is foam tubing that forms around the hose, some is "pipe wrap" that comes in foam or fiberglass. There are also some people who use "closed cell pool noodles" but I'm not sure they would last all winter once they start to deteriorate.

Keep in mind that no matter which method of protecting a heat tape you might choose, if you lose electrical power, it's only a matter of an hour or so before the hose freezes, so if you lose power, turn the water off and drain the hose "early in the power failure"...

[travelin texans]

Good advice from John!
I'd also recommend keeping some water in the fresh water tank for those times the power goes out.
Also if your in very cold temps contact your local LP distributor & have a larger tank brought out with a contract to keep it filled as the furnaces on RVs are huge LP hogs if they run frequently.