New/Used Trailer and Tires, Axles, Hubs, Bearings, etc

[ATLHammer]

We're pretty new to travel trailer life but I've been doing endless research over the last few months and even more so once we acquired our new/used trailer about a month ago.

It's a 2014 Springdale 19RBBH with extremely limited use that was stored inside for the first four years of its life. We saw this as a good thing but because it was rarely used it seems it's probable that it had very little maintenance done. So, we've been running through everything and getting it ready for more regular use. We've now completed two out of state trips, one to the TN mountains and then down to Florida this past weekend to see my mother (We didn't hang with anyone but her and she's basically in isolation). The ultimate goal is a road trip from here in Atlanta, GA to Portland, OR after the 4th of July holiday. We'll be out there for a currently unforeseen amount of time so I want to make sure we're as safe as we can be on our trip.

I'll preface the next part by saying that while I'm not a mechanic by trade I regularly work on my vehicles and those of my friends when they need help. I love doing it as it's nothing like my corporate position. Now,

1) Tires: The tires are the originals and basically have new tread but are dated 44-13 so they'll be getting replaced before the trip. Trailer King ST205/75/R14 Load C sitting on Dexstar 14x5.5 JJ 2040 LB silver wheels. I've been researching tire brands but any any recommendations are welcomed. We probably don't NEED the best of the best but if it's a relatively mild cost difference I usually go for the better option given the choice.

It seems like most places (Costco, Discount Tire, etc) just want the wheel brought to them and they will install the tires vs bringing in the whole trailer, is this true?

2) Bearings+: I've attached a few pictures that I took while I was up under the rig. I've been referencing this thread and this service manual.

I plan on ordering this set as these seem correct given the chart on page 80 of the manual. 4 sets to be replaced and I need to decide on a grease, maybe Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease because it seems to have good reviews and matches the manual specs for grease.

3) All Others: I imagine that once I get in there and check on / test everything I'll know if I need to replace anything else like the brakes.

I've read quite a bit on everything but I'd still like to ask if anyone has any specifics that they'd look at given the nature of our trailer (new/used, minimal maintenance over 6 years, etc). As always any info is appreciated and if you happen to be in the Marietta, GA area and just love working on trailers (and maybe a few drinks), let me know!

[sourdough]

Tires gotta go. I always use Discount tire and I have to take the tires to them because they have such limited space. I have heard of other locations that have enough room to pull a trailer in but not seen one. Brand? Maxxis, Endurance and Carlisle are favorite brands. I ran Carlisle Radial HD (that is the line to buy in Carlisle) for several years with nary a problem. Just looking at the DT website it goes like this for tires in your size; Endurance $164, Maxxis $97-104 but show no availability and no time frame to get them, Carlisle Radial HD $87. It shows the Carlisle and Endurance could be available in a few days but that is out of the Tallahassee, FL store so yours could be different. I would go with Carlisle or Endurance and be comfortable.

Bearings; remove, inspect then repack or replace. With it just sitting for that long I would replace - but that's just me.

Batteries: Replace.

LP system/regulator; inspect, check connections hoses etc.

Roof; if it hasn't been maintained for 6 years the roof needs attention even if it was stored inside. Leaks may or may not be evident depending on the problem but a detailed inspection of the roof is mandatory.

You've used the trailer on short jaunts but you still need to check the fridge, AC and heater intakes, filters exhausts etc. for buildup of debris, webs etc.

Check the water pump, all connections etc. Seems like every time I buy a trailer one or more connections leaks right where it is almost impossible to see.

[ATLHammer]

Thank You for your thorough reply as always!

Originally Posted by sourdough

Tires gotta go. I always use Discount tire and I have to take the tires to them because they have such limited space. I have heard of other locations that have enough room to pull a trailer in but not seen one. Brand? Maxxis, Endurance and Carlisle are favorite brands. I ran Carlisle Radial HD (that is the line to buy in Carlisle) for several years with nary a problem. Just looking at the DT website it goes like this for tires in your size; Endurance $164, Maxxis $97-104 but show no availability and no time frame to get them, Carlisle Radial HD $87. It shows the Carlisle and Endurance could be available in a few days but that is out of the Tallahassee, FL store so yours could be different. I would go with Carlisle or Endurance and be comfortable.

Good to know about Discount Tire, I'm going to call the closest one here in a few minutes. I was actually looking at the Carlisle Radial HDs as an options but I guess it'll somewhat depend on what they can get in and get on in the next few weeks.

Originally Posted by sourdough

Bearings; remove, inspect then repack or replace. With it just sitting for that long I would replace - but that's just me.

I have no problem replacing them, I'd rather spend the time and $$ to make sure they're good to go.

Originally Posted by sourdough

Batteries: Replace.

We only have one battery but I've already replaced it. I have no idea how old the other one was (no sticker or other indication that I could find) and it didn't seem like it wanted to live any more.

Originally Posted by sourdough

LP system/regulator; inspect, check connections hoses etc.

The rig was set up with 2-20lb tanks but they were older and had clearly been swapped out and re-certified. So, I went ahead and acquired 2 new 30lb Worthington tanks so we knew their history. I also figured that because we're going to be running the new Champion dual fuel generator on propane, having the extra around would be convenient. The regulator seems like it's in solid condition but I have located the same model if we want to replace it but that depends on a somewhat near future plan to setup a quick disconnect for the generator without the need to disconnect the lines from the main regulator each time. I'm referencing a thread on some Air Forums that Champion actually told me to look at but that may be a Portland project.

Originally Posted by sourdough

Roof; if it hasn't been maintained for 6 years the roof needs attention even if it was stored inside. Leaks may or may not be evident depending on the problem but a detailed inspection of the roof is mandatory.

I haven't been up on the roof yet and I'm a little skeptical of its strength. I'm ~250lbs but I'm hoping/assuming it should be fine? I want to install a Maxx Air vent so I guess I need to go up there regardless. I imagine I would just want to look for any sealant that's old and needs to be replaced? From the inside we seems to be good but I know it could be behind the walls and turn into a bigger problem down the road.

Originally Posted by sourdough

You've used the trailer on short jaunts but you still need to check the fridge, AC and heater intakes, filters exhausts etc. for buildup of debris, webs etc.

The A/C freezes us out on the lowest setting! I'm going to look into something that will help us better regulate the temp and speed for our given unit.

We've opened up the A/C from inside and cleaned those filters but part of the maintenance I'm planning on these next few weekends is to inspect and clean the A/C... which means I need to be on the roof. The vents on the side of the trailer definitely needed cleaning when we got it but the fridge seems to work well, it just takes quite a while for it to get cold (overnight type of thing) but I've read that's pretty normal.

Originally Posted by sourdough

Check the water pump, all connections etc. Seems like every time I buy a trailer one or more connections leaks right where it is almost impossible to see.

The first weekend we took it to TN our plan was to de-winterize it and sanitize the fresh water lines and tank. We ended up flushing almost everything including the hot water tank but discovered that the toilet valve had a crack that leaked when it was under pressure (I've read that it's common for that piece after a winterization). So, I ordered a OEM new valve and replaced it.

This past weekend trip to Florida allowed us to flush and sanitize (using the Camco TastePURE Cleaner and Deodorizer) the fresh water system and we took our first showers in the RV! Exciting for us, but I'm sure not for anyone else haha

[sourdough]

"I haven't been up on the roof yet and I'm a little skeptical of its strength. I'm ~250lbs but I'm hoping/assuming it should be fine? I want to install a Maxx Air vent so I guess I need to go up there regardless. I imagine I would just want to look for any sealant that's old and needs to be replaced? From the inside we seems to be good but I know it could be behind the walls and turn into a bigger problem down the road."


If you are going to place a Maxx Air vent then you will need to be up there. Use something to spread your weight across the roof vs just standing/sitting/squatting on it. People use all sorts of things from plywood pieces to stiff foam. Just don't concentrate your weight in one area. You can check out that AC at the same time.

As far as checking the roof you can do that with a ladder of proper height from the side (most of it). Sealing around vents, skylights etc. will need to be done from on top. Look at the sealant (Dicor) along the edges, front and rear seams and around all the openings in the roof. If it has dried and started cracking you may have your work cut out for you removing the old and applying new. Look for ANY crack or pinhole that sort of "disappear" down into the sealant. If you can't see the bottom of it (I usually carry a flashlight) then it needs to be resealed. If it's in good enough shape just clean the existing and apply new right over it liberally - cover it completely. Use self leveling Dicor on the flat surfaces. Your roof may be EPDM or TPO; my 14 was EPDM. Dicor will work on either.

Give the roof a good inspection as well. Is the roofing material in good shape? Has it been hit, snagged or have any abrasions from things possibly falling on it?

You might also look under the trailer. I don't know if it has a corrugated covering (coroplast) but it probably has Darco fabric in the wheel wells. If so check that stuff out thoroughly. Many a trailer has developed soft floors due to water penetration through it. Make sure any penetrations through the bottom covering have been sealed with expanding foam or some other material.

[ATLHammer]

Excellent, I'll be checking it all out this weekend. Thanks again!

[travelin texans]

Need to pick up, if you haven't already, a surge protector/EMS (either hardwired or portable) in whatever amperage as your RV, an adjustable water pressure regulator (shown below) & to go along with the new tires a TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) with metal valve stems in the wheels.

I realize none of these are DIY maintenance items & will cost you $$$, but in my opinion all are/should be mandatory.
If by chance you need new brakes order the entire brake backing plates assembly, it cost just a couple bucks more than buying all the seperate pieces, but by removing/replacing 4-5 bolts it's done, much less work & mess.

[ATLHammer]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Need to pick up, if you haven't already, a surge protector/EMS (either hardwired or portable) in whatever amperage as your RV, an adjustable water pressure regulator (shown below) & to go along with the new tires a TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) with metal valve stems in the wheels.
Attachment 28167
I realize none of these are DIY maintenance items & will cost you $$$, but in my opinion all are/should be mandatory.

We picked up a Southwire Surge Guard 34931 and the Wireless display (40301) so we're good on the EMS.

A Renator M11-0660R Water Pressure Regulator Valve, Rainwave RW-9FM LCD Digital Water Flow Meter and Camco 40043 TastePure RV/Marine Water Filter are all in-line on our incoming water line. I also hooked them up with quick disconnects so they're easier to manage.

I've looked into several TPMS options but am still deciding on how to play that one. My truck has been without sensors since I got it in 2009 so I'm in the habit of checking pressures pretty regularly. So far we've checked the trailer tires before we've started moving each time an they've held air no problem, even though they are old. I know we could end up with something happening while we're moving but I'm leaning toward no system for now.

I'm going to looking at the brakes when I replace and grease the bearings. If we need them, I'll make it happen.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by ATLHammer

We picked up a Southwire Surge Guard 34931 and the Wireless display (40301) so we're good on the EMS.

A Renator M11-0660R Water Pressure Regulator Valve, Rainwave RW-9FM LCD Digital Water Flow Meter and Camco 40043 TastePure RV/Marine Water Filter are all in-line on our incoming water line. I also hooked them up with quick disconnects so they're easier to manage.

I've looked into several TPMS options but am still deciding on how to play that one. My truck has been without sensors since I got it in 2009 so I'm in the habit of checking pressures pretty regularly. So far we've checked the trailer tires before we've started moving each time an they've held air no problem, even though they are old. I know we could end up with something happening while we're moving but I'm leaning toward no system for now.

I'm going to looking at the brakes when I replace and grease the bearings. If we need them, I'll make it happen.

I would highly recommend a TPMS system. I run a TST 507 with the valve stem caps (get steel stems with those new tires whether you opt for a tpms now or not because you will in the future).

Checking tire pressures is one thing, a tpms and infrared gun are mandatory IMO. When you left a campsite this morning with the proper pressure does nothing to tell you what is going on in those tires as you travel hundreds/thousands of miles per day. Nail, barb, split causing a slow leak; you don't know until the tire goes - a tpms tells you about the loss of pressure. Same goes for the heat buildup that will accompany that; tpms tells you before it gets to the "pop" stage. Once a tire blows and takes the side/bottom out of your trailer causing many thousands of damage.....and you could have prevented it with a tpms.....well, an ounce of prevention is by FAR better than a pound of cure as they say.

[JRTJH]

All ST tires are rated by size/pressure/load capacity and as far as I know, the ratings are standardized. So, any specific size tire/ply raying will be the same regardless of manufacturer...

Your current tires are ST205/75/R14 Load C which are rated at 1760 pounds at 50 PSI.

If I were you, I'd increase the ply rating and install ST205/75/R14 Load D tires.
Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires in LR D are rated at 2040 pounds @ 65PSI. I'd suspect that you have 14" steel wheels and they should be rated for the increased load/pressure. The tires are only a couple dollars more each at Discount Tire and the overall increase in load rating goes from 7040 to 8160. That's a "negligible price (about $20) for the set of 4 for a substantial increase in tire loading safety margin.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by ATLHammer

We're pretty new to travel trailer life but I've been doing endless research over the last few months and even more so once we acquired our new/used trailer about a month ago.

It's a 2014 Springdale 19RBBH with extremely limited use that was stored inside for the first four years of its life. We saw this as a good thing but because it was rarely used it seems it's probable that it had very little maintenance done. So, we've been running through everything and getting it ready for more regular use. We've now completed two out of state trips, one to the TN mountains and then down to Florida this past weekend to see my mother (We didn't hang with anyone but her and she's basically in isolation). The ultimate goal is a road trip from here in Atlanta, GA to Portland, OR after the 4th of July holiday. We'll be out there for a currently unforeseen amount of time so I want to make sure we're as safe as we can be on our trip.

I'll preface the next part by saying that while I'm not a mechanic by trade I regularly work on my vehicles and those of my friends when they need help. I love doing it as it's nothing like my corporate position. Now,

1) Tires: The tires are the originals and basically have new tread but are dated 44-13 so they'll be getting replaced before the trip. Trailer King ST205/75/R14 Load C sitting on Dexstar 14x5.5 JJ 2040 LB silver wheels. I've been researching tire brands but any any recommendations are welcomed. We probably don't NEED the best of the best but if it's a relatively mild cost difference I usually go for the better option given the choice.

It seems like most places (Costco, Discount Tire, etc) just want the wheel brought to them and they will install the tires vs bringing in the whole trailer, is this true?

2) Bearings+: I've attached a few pictures that I took while I was up under the rig. I've been referencing this thread and this service manual.

I plan on ordering this set as these seem correct given the chart on page 80 of the manual. 4 sets to be replaced and I need to decide on a grease, maybe Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease because it seems to have good reviews and matches the manual specs for grease.

3) All Others: I imagine that once I get in there and check on / test everything I'll know if I need to replace anything else like the brakes.

I've read quite a bit on everything but I'd still like to ask if anyone has any specifics that they'd look at given the nature of our trailer (new/used, minimal maintenance over 6 years, etc). As always any info is appreciated and if you happen to be in the Marietta, GA area and just love working on trailers (and maybe a few drinks), let me know!

The only things I would replace is the tires. All of the major brands now build that sized tire with a load range "D".

I see absolutely no reason to changing any of the other items unless they are found defective.

During the 14 years we owned our 38" fiver we never changed axles, wheels, hubs, brakes or wheel bearings and we put more than 200000 miles on that trailer. I'm a mechanic (aviation) by trade and performed all of my own inspections. I removed, cleaned, inspected and repacked the wheel bearings every 10 - 15K miles. I also replaced the shocks every 10K miles. My records show 4 sets of break shoe changes. I rewired the exposed electrical wiring to the break system twice. We broke some shackles and a brother-in-law made me some replacements and a complete spare set. We had a factory upgraded Carrier 15K A/C. When Carrier quit making RV models we were worried. It was still in good operating condition when we sold the trailer.

Because we were high mileage users we changed our tires every three years. Today some of the newer brands will not degrade that fast and you could consider 5 years from them, 7 years if all steel construction. However, none of the 14" are steel cased and only a very few of the 15".l

[ATLHammer]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I would highly recommend a TPMS system. I run a TST 507 with the valve stem caps (get steel stems with those new tires whether you opt for a tpms now or not because you will in the future).

Checking tire pressures is one thing, a tpms and infrared gun are mandatory IMO. When you left a campsite this morning with the proper pressure does nothing to tell you what is going on in those tires as you travel hundreds/thousands of miles per day. Nail, barb, split causing a slow leak; you don't know until the tire goes - a tpms tells you about the loss of pressure. Same goes for the heat buildup that will accompany that; tpms tells you before it gets to the "pop" stage. Once a tire blows and takes the side/bottom out of your trailer causing many thousands of damage.....and you could have prevented it with a tpms.....well, an ounce of prevention is by FAR better than a pound of cure as they say.

I'll ask DT to throw on steel stems, I'm headed there now after getting the wheels off.

Originally Posted by JRTJH

All ST tires are rated by size/pressure/load capacity and as far as I know, the ratings are standardized. So, any specific size tire/ply raying will be the same regardless of manufacturer...

Your current tires are ST205/75/R14 Load C which are rated at 1760 pounds at 50 PSI.

If I were you, I'd increase the ply rating and install ST205/75/R14 Load D tires.
Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires in LR D are rated at 2040 pounds @ 65PSI. I'd suspect that you have 14" steel wheels and they should be rated for the increased load/pressure. The tires are only a couple dollars more each at Discount Tire and the overall increase in load rating goes from 7040 to 8160. That's a "negligible price (about $20) for the set of 4 for a substantial increase in tire loading safety margin.

That's exactly what I asked DT for so I agree with you!

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

The only things I would replace is the tires. All of the major brands now build that sized tire with a load range "D".

I see absolutely no reason to changing any of the other items unless they are found defective.

During the 14 years we owned our 38" fiver we never changed axles, wheels, hubs, brakes or wheel bearings and we put more than 200000 miles on that trailer. I'm a mechanic (aviation) by trade and performed all of my own inspections. I removed, cleaned, inspected and repacked the wheel bearings every 10 - 15K miles. I also replaced the shocks every 10K miles. My records show 4 sets of break shoe changes. I rewired the exposed electrical wiring to the break system twice. We broke some shackles and a brother-in-law made me some replacements and a complete spare set. We had a factory upgraded Carrier 15K A/C. When Carrier quit making RV models we were worried. It was still in good operating condition when we sold the trailer.

Because we were high mileage users we changed our tires every three years. Today some of the newer brands will not degrade that fast and you could consider 5 years from them, 7 years if all steel construction. However, none of the 14" are steel cased and only a very few of the 15".l

I decided that I'm going to go for it and replace the bearings this time around when I remove them to grease everything. At ~$84 for the four sets from etrailer I'm fine with that and we'll know their history.

When I removed the wheels I checked the brakes and they seem to work using the "2-person brake controller" test but I'm definitely getting light scrapping/whooshing sounds when spinning all of the four wheels. I want to assume it's the bearings but could it be the brakes dragging because that's what it sounds like to me but I'm new to trailers.

Video 1
Video 2
Video 3

Any thoughts? Thank You for the help as always!

[sourdough]

Brakes dragging. Did you pull the drums? I live in a very windy, dusty place. I've had brakes do that after a sand storm and sand collected in the drum and the shoes would grind against it. If it has been sitting for years there could be debris in there. Pull the drums, which you will do for the bearings, and check them out along with the shoes. It may be as simple as adjusting the brakes (which I think it may be unless there is grease inside or some abnormal wear/breakage).

[ATLHammer]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Brakes dragging. Did you pull the drums? I live in a very windy, dusty place. I've had brakes do that after a sand storm and sand collected in the drum and the shoes would grind against it. If it has been sitting for years there could be debris in there. Pull the drums, which you will do for the bearings, and check them out along with the shoes. It may be as simple as adjusting the brakes (which I think it may be unless there is grease inside or some abnormal wear/breakage).

I haven't pulled anything but the wheels so far. I'm going to order the bearings tonight or tomorrow and plan to replace/grease those next weekend. The whole rig was definitely sandy/dirty from what looked like sitting so I think debris is a good guess. I suppose I'm just playing with the idea of buying new brakes with the bearings in case I need them and can always send them back. However, I would hope with such little use they would just need a bit of cleaning and adjustment. Thanks!

[tech740]

You should have a little brake drag to know they are adjusted correctly.

[Tireman9]

Your questions have been answered BUT
Checking aip pressure only tells you you have air when you are doing the check. A Single air leak (nail, cut valve leak etc) can do $thousands of dollars)


Have even seen air loss due to valve core leak because a plastic valve cap was used because metal cap was too expensive.


TPMS is an investment as they can be moved to any other RV or even sold.


Don't worry about IR for checking tires. Rubber is an insulator so IR does not give you the information you need. IR is fine for checking metal components (hubs & brakes)

[blubuckaroo]

One thing I've found comforting, is to have a complete spare hub assembly with bearings packed and ready. I keep it in a big zip lock bag in a small box. The hub can be easily changed that way without waiting somewhere for parts.

Just about the only thing that stops a travel trailer on a trip is the tires and axles.

[Billod]

Originally Posted by ATLHammer

We're pretty new to travel trailer life but I've been doing endless research over the last few months and even more so once we acquired our new/used trailer about a month ago.

It's a 2014 Springdale 19RBBH with extremely limited use that was stored inside for the first four years of its life. We saw this as a good thing but because it was rarely used it seems it's probable that it had very little maintenance done. So, we've been running through everything and getting it ready for more regular use. We've now completed two out of state trips, one to the TN mountains and then down to Florida this past weekend to see my mother (We didn't hang with anyone but her and she's basically in isolation). The ultimate goal is a road trip from here in Atlanta, GA to Portland, OR after the 4th of July holiday. We'll be out there for a currently unforeseen amount of time so I want to make sure we're as safe as we can be on our trip.

I'll preface the next part by saying that while I'm not a mechanic by trade I regularly work on my vehicles and those of my friends when they need help. I love doing it as it's nothing like my corporate position. Now,

1) Tires: The tires are the originals and basically have new tread but are dated 44-13 so they'll be getting replaced before the trip. Trailer King ST205/75/R14 Load C sitting on Dexstar 14x5.5 JJ 2040 LB silver wheels. I've been researching tire brands but any any recommendations are welcomed. We probably don't NEED the best of the best but if it's a relatively mild cost difference I usually go for the better option given the choice.

It seems like most places (Costco, Discount Tire, etc) just want the wheel brought to them and they will install the tires vs bringing in the whole trailer, is this true?

2) Bearings+: I've attached a few pictures that I took while I was up under the rig. I've been referencing this thread and this service manual.

I plan on ordering this set as these seem correct given the chart on page 80 of the manual. 4 sets to be replaced and I need to decide on a grease, maybe Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease because it seems to have good reviews and matches the manual specs for grease.

3) All Others: I imagine that once I get in there and check on / test everything I'll know if I need to replace anything else like the brakes.

I've read quite a bit on everything but I'd still like to ask if anyone has any specifics that they'd look at given the nature of our trailer (new/used, minimal maintenance over 6 years, etc). As always any info is appreciated and if you happen to be in the Marietta, GA area and just love working on trailers (and maybe a few drinks), let me know!

One item that was a surprise to me being new to an RV travel trailer recently was inspecting the electric brakes. I am familiar with conventional truck drum brakes but the electric type threw me an unexpected curve. The shoes were good, the magnet worked, but the stopping power didn't work well after significant time adjusting them. What I found after packing the drums with new bearings, seals etc, is the magnets were worn at an angle. I replaced the whole electric shoe backing plate assemblies for all four, and stopping power spinning the wheel was much worse, again after considerable time adjusting them...The surface that the magnet touches on the drum was also worn at an angle, and I never gave it a thought that this was very important. I determined the drums were worn out too. I'd suggest checking the drum and magnet mating surfaces to see if angles and or groves exist since I overlooked this important part of the inspection. I ended up buying new drums, and replacing the new bearing races & seals while repacking again. The brakes work great now. Learned something new. Best of luck,
Bill

[markjamestx]

I have owned two of those regulators and each one only last about a year or less.

[Camp CA]

Tires..........when I purchase trailer tires I buy what Keystone recommends for my trailer AND I pull my rig into a tire place like Big O or Lee Schwab who change the tires at their facility and while that are at it check the pressure in my 6 truck tires.

[Roscommon48]

tires. see if you can go to load d or e
you don't have to replace bearings just get them regreased or do it yourself.


check brakes and you are good to go.