Tank sensors

[chuckster57]

I use a slotted prybar to remove the rivets. Gotta be careful not to damage the coroplast. I start under the coroplast and once I get the rivet to start backing out I use the prybar under the washer. I have also ground the heads off the rivets and then punched the “nail” out.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I use a slotted prybar to remove the rivets. Gotta be careful not to damage the coroplast. I start under the coroplast and once I get the rivet to start backing out I use the prybar under the washer. I have also ground the heads off the rivets and then punched the “nail” out.

This unfortunately is sounding more like a chore for the dealer.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by chunker

This unfortunately is sounding more like a chore for the dealer.

Also based on where the gate valves are it looks like they could be accessed by cutting the coroplast in the middle. Not sure if that is an acceptable repair procedure though. If it was mine without a warranty that's what I'd do. BUT it does have a warranty.

[chuckster57]

Yeah. And I dare say, I’m wondering about how well the PDI was done before you got there.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Yeah. And I dare say, I’m wondering about how well the PDI was done before you got there.

Agree it's almost like little to nothing was done.

[KRumm]

Has anyone replaced the sensors with these?...
They claim they are less prone to TP clogging failure...

[Ksupaul]

Not probably helpful but info none the less. I am 2 years in on mine and surprised at how accurate my sensors are. Just this weekend grey read full to my surprise. Actually assumed it was reading a bit high and surely not full yet. In 10 minutes gurgling at the sink. Sure enough full. black was right on too at 3/4 when dumped. Yes I have had trips not as accurate on black. Assume some interruption to the sensor. But if I do a good full cleaning at the end, I’m back to working well again. Lucky I guess?

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by KRumm

Has anyone replaced the sensors with these?...
They claim they are less prone to TP clogging failure...

I think those are Horst Miracle sensors or similar.... I replaced the original in my black tank with those and the black tank still doesn't read properly. They may work much better than the original but something else is going on with my black tanks sensor system. They are pretty easy to install but you have to have access to the originals and I have no plastic up under my black tank so for me it wasn't all that hard. Drain the tank first, of course.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If the coroplast is held in place with self tapping screws, it’s easy to remove enough to have a peek with a flashlight. If it’s riveted in, I would probably take it in. That way the dealer can deal with them. I take them out and then replace with self tapping screws.

Well I figured out what the problem, problemS actually. I dropped the front of the coroplast, it had the screws, and pried out a few of the "nails" just enough to roll back the coroplast to access in there. The push/pull cable wasn't secured on the gate valve in the threaded capture nut. That allowed the inner portion to freely slide in the outer without actuating the valve. There are some nice tags saying something to the effect to have a minimum of 6" straight going into the valve. Cables start bending right away. The gray cable does a 360* loop before going to the valve which means to me the cable is to long. Someone grabbed the wrong part. Lastly, I hope, the valve body leaks profusely. The 4 7/16th" bolts that hold the valves body together were finger loose. I tightened them but still leaks profusely. In the past I saw an exploded diagram and as I recall there are O rings on the 2 halves. Either no O rings or they are out of place.

Called dealer and explained and offered if they want to fix here that's fine so they are checking to see what's next. Probably have to take it back in. What a mess.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by chunker

...the valve body leaks profusely. The 4 7/16th" bolts that hold the valves body together were finger loose. I tightened them but still leaks profusely. In the past I saw an exploded diagram and as I recall there are O rings on the 2 halves. Either no O rings or they are out of place. ...

The valve seals are notorious for catching on the valve lip and getting pulled out of position. When that happens, it's "disassemble and reposition the rubber seals. My guess is that with the 4 bolts being loose, when you (or someone else) actuated the Bowden cable, the slide opened, then when they pushed the cable, the slide "dragged the seals" out of position. It'll almost always "leak until the seals are replaced/repositioned" no matter how much you tighten the 4 bolts.

This is one for the dealer to fix, after all, if they'd done the PDI properly, the tank would have been clean when they found the problem....

[chunker]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The valve seals are notorious for catching on the valve lip and getting pulled out of position. When that happens, it's "disassemble and reposition the rubber seals. My guess is that with the 4 bolts being loose, when you (or someone else) actuated the Bowden cable, the slide opened, then when they pushed the cable, the slide "dragged the seals" out of position. It'll almost always "leak until the seals are replaced/repositioned" no matter how much you tighten the 4 bolts.

This is one for the dealer to fix, after all, if they'd done the PDI properly, the tank would have been clean when they found the problem....

Ball's in their court now. I offered them my pole barn if they want to do it here since the coroplast is already open. They will probably want it there though so waiting to hear back. If so I'll button it back up and take it in. I did manage to get some water in the grey tank just enough to get a sensor reading so at least that works.

Checking the plumbing system was the last thing on the list so until I can take it out for some shake rattle and roll I won't know what parts "fall off".

[chunker]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The valve seals are notorious for catching on the valve lip and getting pulled out of position. When that happens, it's "disassemble and reposition the rubber seals. My guess is that with the 4 bolts being loose, when you (or someone else) actuated the Bowden cable, the slide opened, then when they pushed the cable, the slide "dragged the seals" out of position. It'll almost always "leak until the seals are replaced/repositioned" no matter how much you tighten the 4 bolts.

This is one for the dealer to fix, after all, if they'd done the PDI properly, the tank would have been clean when they found the problem....

When I removed the front screws to look up in there I got a bath. Coroplast was holding some water from the grey valve leak so it was leaking before I got to it. There also wasn't any sealing of the coroplast. There was a reflective bubble type sheet that started about a foot and a half aft of where the coroplast screwed to the front. Not glued or sealed at all. It's back together and I'll take it in this afternoon.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If the coroplast is held in place with self tapping screws, it’s easy to remove enough to have a peek with a flashlight. If it’s riveted in, I would probably take it in. That way the dealer can deal with them. I take them out and then replace with self tapping screws.

When I said the valve leaked I’m talking about in the seam of the 2 halves, not leaking out the drain although it could be leaking there also.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by chunker

When I said the valve leaked I’m talking about in the seam of the 2 halves, not leaking out the drain although it could be leaking there also.

Sounds like the seals. Your doing the right thing taking it back in. I would make them fill the tanks, and then drain them with you present to verify repair.

[Roscommon48]

maybe i'm missing something but you need to get into you bottom to see if the valves are shutting all the way. if you can't do it get it to your dealer.


and, i'd not worry about the sensors regardless of what was stated above, for the most part they'll quit on you at some point, just learn about when to dump.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by Roscommon48

maybe i'm missing something but you need to get into you bottom to see if the valves are shutting all the way. if you can't do it get it to your dealer.


and, i'd not worry about the sensors regardless of what was stated above, for the most part they'll quit on you at some point, just learn about when to dump.

Valve wasn't shutting because #1 the valve wasn't assembled correctly and the bolts that hold it together were loose. #2 the capture nut which holds the outside sheathing of the cable did not wrap that outside part thus not moving the valve itself. #3 in my opinion the cables are too long since the grey tank cable does a 360 loop before attaching to valve. #4 there are instructions on the cables "per warranty instruction make sure a minimum of 6" of cable is straight" (not exact verbiage) and the cables start bending immediately.

All #1-4 were factory sloppy issues but would have been caught if the dealer had added enough water to check the tank sensors. Because the grey tank would not hold enough water to record a reading due to valve leak and cable disconnect. Sloppy factory work and sloppy negligent dealer's PDI and poor delivery inspection on my part for not checking tanks before taking possession.

EDIT; I realize that keeping the sensors working takes work and effort but they should work out of the box. Actually everything about an RV takes work and effort to make the systems work correctly.

[notanlines]

We are on our third large RV with tanks and sensors. In thirteen years we have never had a sensor problem longer than one good rinse. Our last two had tank rinse on both black and grey tanks. We use Scott's RV, never an additive and rinse every third dump or thereabouts. I believe most, not all of course, black tank troubles start with the original owner/newbies and a failure to follow proper procedure. I'm sure there are exceptions and I don't have an answer for that.

[blubuckaroo]

Tank sensors are only good for advertising to prospective buyers.
If you rely on them you'll be in trouble.