Replacing it is fairly easy for us guys that do them for a living
For the DIY'er it's about a 5 on the 1-10 scale. You need to find out what brand of valve it is, Valterra, Valterra BladeX or Bristol as the brands are not really interchangeable (don't ask how I know), and the length of the cable as they come in a few different lengths. Replacement:
Drop enough coroplast to allow access to valve. If the cable is broken, you should still be able to use pliers or visegrips the grab the valve shaft and open t to drain the tank. You won't get it ALL out but at least it's gray not black water. The valve assembly will be held together with 4 7/16" bolts and nuts. When you put the new assembly in, you will need to spread the pipes and keep,the valve in the closed position. A little axle grease will help hold the seals in the proper position. Once it's in, rotate it a bit to make sure the seals aren't pinched. Then put all 4 bolts in finger tight. Test valve movement and if good then tighten. Once done fill tank at least 1/3 to test seal.
The cable and handle should somewhat self explanatory so I skipped that part.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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