Reasons why not to use Easy Lube

[dvan]

Funny I see this thread. I bought a used 2010 Fuzion and didn't think the brakes stopped good enough. I had a old brake controller and this trailer had 3 axles so it was time to upgrade the controller. Ordered and received the controller today. I installed the controller and test drove and it was the same as before. I started at the left rear and adjusted the brake manually and then the left center and left front. When I went to the right front there was no adjuster visible and I look at the right center and I could see a broken spring poking out of the adj slot. Did a quick search and couldn't find where to buy just the adjuster and bottom springs so I guess I have to replace the entire assemblies on the two with broken springs.
So I've got a job for tomorrow of removing all 6 hubs and inspecting brakes and bearings and see what else I find.

[jtyphoid]

Originally Posted by dvan

Did a quick search and couldn't find where to buy just the adjuster and bottom springs so I guess I have to replace the entire assemblies on the two with broken springs.
So I've got a job for tomorrow of removing all 6 hubs and inspecting brakes and bearings and see what else I find.

Instead of replacing the missing parts, you might want to replace the entire assemblies, including backing plate. Several of the brake assemblies on our new to us 2009 Rapter (triple axle) were contaminated with grease, probably from improper use of the easy-lube feature. Instead of trying to clean them, I found complete self adjusting assemblies for around $65 each. I really want the brakes to work when I hit the stop pedal so I considered the cost a worthwhile upgrade. I got one side done today. The other will have to wait until next weekend.

[dvan]

Originally Posted by jtyphoid

Instead of replacing the missing parts, you might want to replace the entire assemblies, including backing plate. Several of the brake assemblies on our new to us 2009 Rapter (triple axle) were contaminated with grease, probably from improper use of the easy-lube feature. Instead of trying to clean them, I found complete self adjusting assemblies for around $65 each. I really want the brakes to work when I hit the stop pedal so I considered the cost a worthwhile upgrade. I got one side done today. The other will have to wait until next weekend.

I was unable to locate the spring and the adjuster so this morning I ordered 2 complete assemblies. I thought $55 ea was a good price until I found out that I have 7000# axles and they were $80 ea with free shipping. The three that I took apart weren't contaminated, but I ordered 6 seals and will be inspecting and repacking the bearings. I will take the drums down tomorrow and have then turned and wait for the parts to arrive.

[jtyphoid]

I'd offer up parts from my original assemblies that I'm replacing, but mine are 6K# not 7. I don't know if the parts you need are the same as what I have.

[bobbecky]

dvan, you will want to confirm with the machine shop you are having your drums turned at, that they can turn electric brake drums. Most automotive shops are not able to turn the magnet surface of the drums.

[dvan]

Originally Posted by jtyphoid

I'd offer up parts from my original assemblies that I'm replacing, but mine are 6K# not 7. I don't know if the parts you need are the same as what I have.

Thanks for the offer. I'm not sure what the difference is between 6K# & 7K#, they like the same in the pictures and are both 12'x2". I do know they are about $30 difference in price.
Has anyone else had this problem of the lower spring breaks and the adjuster falls out? Seems kind of odd that two of mine did.

[dvan]

Originally Posted by bobbecky

dvan, you will want to confirm with the machine shop you are having your drums turned at, that they can turn electric brake drums. Most automotive shops are not able to turn the magnet surface of the drums.

I use a shop that specializes in Clutch's and brakes. Been using them for over 30 yrs for all my clutch's and brakes when I ran fleet maintenance shops.
Not a bad idea to call first, not sure if I ever had a electric brake drum turned, just truck brake drums and flywheels.

[jtyphoid]

Originally Posted by dvan

Thanks for the offer. I'm not sure what the difference is between 6K# & 7K#, they like the same in the pictures and are both 12'x2". I do know they are about $30 difference in price.
Has anyone else had this problem of the lower spring breaks and the adjuster falls out? Seems kind of odd that two of mine did.

If you decide you want any adjusters or springs for comparison or as spares, let me know within the next couple of weeks. After that they go to the scrap metal recycler.

[dvan]

Originally Posted by jtyphoid

If you decide you want any adjusters or springs for comparison or as spares, let me know within the next couple of weeks. After that they go to the scrap metal recycler.

I would interested in them if they are self adjusters, I noticed there is a difference between the two. Mine have the adjusters inside the springs.
If the ones you have are like that, I would be interested and would pay the shipping.
Thanks
Dennis

[jtyphoid]

dvan, I was finally able to check and mine are manual adjusters, so the spring goes beneath.

[dvan]

Originally Posted by jtyphoid

dvan, I was finally able to check and mine are manual adjusters, so the spring goes beneath.

Thanks, I appreciate you checking.

[concours]

One year and 10,000 KM has passed since I posted the reason not to rely on Easy Lube for servicing, well I just completed the annual bearing/brake inspection and guess what found another outer wheel bearing in the early stages of failure but my big concern is that another brake actuator reaction block has broken rendering the brake useless. The reaction block is the square block that is part of the backing plate which the magnet arm pushes against. All the inspecting and maintenance in the world will not stop this failure it is just simply poor quality materials
My point in reposting this is that when you service your brakes take a second look at the square block make sure its there and not cracked

[Desert185]

I just read the entire thread. It highlights much of my issues with technology. Along with the advances comes the dumbing down of materials and the use of plastic to replace metals like brass or bronze.

My SRX axle seals were allowing grease to bypass during the first year. Removing the drums and inspecting the bearings, seals and braking mechanism is obviously so much more desireable than using the convenient, but issue masking, Easy Lube zerk.

I am now convinced that I am going to replace all the cheap, OEM bearings on the next scheduled check with USA Timkens just like I did the China bombs with proven tires, flimsy spring shackles with double thickness ones and wet bolts with bronze bushings.

At least the technology of the internet, this forum and my iPad make possible having more easily acquired knowledge with which to combat the negative byproducts of company outsourcing and product cost cutting.

Thanks for posting your experiences.

[dcg9381]

Anyone got opinions on the never-lube bearing options? Seem to be sealed bearings...

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by dcg9381

Anyone got opinions on the never-lube bearing options? Seem to be sealed bearings...

I've seen them go long and fail early, depending on the application. Again, the Chinese ones seem to lack longevity, so I would go with American, Japanese or certain European brands. For now, I'm going to remain old-school with replacement USA Timkens, hand-lubed and inspected on a reasonable schedule, which is what has worked well for me in the past. My biggest fear is having to depend on someone else doing the service when I am no longer capable of doing it myself.

[JRTJH]

This is just "my thoughts" on sealed (never-lube) bearings. They may be a "less messy" apparatus, but in the "grand scheme of things" it's still advisable to pull the hub to check magnets and brake shoes, so the only real "omitted part" is the actual cleaning/repacking of the bearings. Since the hub needs to be pulled, other than the old towel and the solvent to clean the grease off the bearings, it's pretty much a "wash" if you add the time to do the bearing repack.

For me, at the price they're asking for the sealed bearings, I can do many years of bearing repacks and still not have spent the cost of even one axle's sealed bearing cost. So, since I'm already going to be there (at least every other year) to check the brakes, the sealed bearings just don't seem to be that great of an advantage.

[gearhead]

Originally Posted by dcg9381

Anyone got opinions on the never-lube bearing options? Seem to be sealed bearings...

Not so much the Dexter Never Lube, but I have Vault hubs on my boat trailer. Basically just a regular spindle with what we used to call a Speedy-Sleeve for the seal to run on, and "O" ring sealed hub cap. They use a Lucas hybrid grease/oil. No service for 5 years I think. Just about every new boat trailer I have seen in the last 2-3 years is factory installing them. Not sure about sizes for RV's though. They might be coming because Dexter just bought the company.
http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs...aintenance.pdf

[concours]

The bearing failures I can overcome by installing better quality non Chinese bearings my big concern is having had 2 brake actuators fail is a real concern

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

This is just "my thoughts" on sealed (never-lube) bearings. They may be a "less messy" apparatus, but in the "grand scheme of things" it's still advisable to pull the hub to check magnets and brake shoes, so the only real "omitted part" is the actual cleaning/repacking of the bearings. Since the hub needs to be pulled, other than the old towel and the solvent to clean the grease off the bearings, it's pretty much a "wash" if you add the time to do the bearing repack.

For me, at the price they're asking for the sealed bearings, I can do many years of bearing repacks and still not have spent the cost of even one axle's sealed bearing cost. So, since I'm already going to be there (at least every other year) to check the brakes, the sealed bearings just don't seem to be that great of an advantage.

All great points that continue to encourage the use of the "old-school" bearings. Rather spend the money on some doo-dad that I am convinced I can't live without.

[bobbecky]

concours, if you haven't already done this, you might want to give Dexter a call and let them know what you are experiencing with the hardware failures in your brakes. Your rig isn't old enough to be having these problems. They may have a remedy to solve your issues. (574) 295-7888