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Old 02-13-2015, 06:57 AM   #1
bradandleslie
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Hooked to miswired shore power, bad things happened

I got a new 30amp outlet installed at my house. I plugged it into my 2012 Keystone 281BHS and bad things happened.
I then measured the new outlet and relized it was wired wrong. I measured 220V instead of 120V.
Now in the RV...
- The Microwave works (on its own circuit)
- Nothing else seems to be be getting power
- Fuses all look good. GFCI outlet is not tripped
- I see some capacitors, etc on the power converter board that are clearly blown

Could the power converter be the problem that is causing none of me circuits to work (except the microwave)? Or do I likely have multiple things to replace?
Other ideas?
thanks,
Brad
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:32 AM   #2
cabinfever
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I'm thinking you are going to have a few things to replace and the convertor may be one of them. Does anything 12V work? You will need to go through the entire camper and check each 110 outlet and device to be sure there was no damage from the 220V going through the system. If the convertor burnt out it may have saved the 12V system. Who installed the outlet? They obviously did not understand you needed a 110 volt/ 30 amp RV service. Good lesson to anyone having RV service wired at your home. The electrician needs to understand what type of service you need and how to wire. My recommendation would be to contact a local CG and have them recommend the electrician that works for them. He would understand what you need. Hope you don't need to replace much and be thankful there wasn't a fire.
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:39 AM   #3
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Sounds like your converter got toasted. I'm surprised your microwave works. What about the AC?
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Old 02-13-2015, 08:32 AM   #4
JRTJH
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110 volt system items that "could be damaged":

water heater element
air conditioner
refrigerator heating element
microwave
converter/power center
GFI receptacles
televisions, DVD players, small electronics battery chargers/power centers
any appliances/heaters that may have been plugged in during the event

12 volt system items that "could be damaged":

water heater control board
HVAC thermostat
refrigerator control board
furnace control board
remote control system
converter/battery charger
entertainment system components
LED lighting
fuses/circuit breakers contained within the wiring harness
motors for stabilizer jacks, landing gear
control panel/tank monitor panel
water pump
exhaust fans/vent fans
CO, CO2, propane monitors

Hopefully only the converter/power center "toasted" when the 220 VAC was applied, but even after troubleshooting and probable replacement, there may be damage from "melted wiring" as well as damage to other components from the high voltage condition. When the power center "disrupted" power to the remainder of the RV, if you're lucky, it happened fast enough that no other damage occurred. But, without checking, there's no way to be sure of that.

I'd go through and check everything visually before reapplying power to the RV. The last thing you'd want to happen is to replace the converter, plug the trailer in and watch something else start smoking.

Good Luck
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Old 02-13-2015, 10:35 AM   #5
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You may want to bring it in to a service center to check things out. Also, with any luck your insurance company will help you out to get things fixed depending on who they feel is to blame for the bad wiring. Good luck and hope it is an easy fix.
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:34 PM   #6
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We sold a new unit last year and the customer texted a picture of the 30A plug to his electrician buddy. Buddy installed plug on side yard, he took his unit home and plugged it in...YUP homie wired it for 220.

The CONVERTOR took the shot for the 12V stuff. He lost his microwave and IIRC that was it. A/C was turned off, we installed a new converter and microwave, tested EVERY circuit and breathed a sigh of relief. Hopefully your situation will end the same.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:16 PM   #7
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This 220v issue prompted me to check what protection my 50a Surgeguard surge protector provides. Surprisingly, it does not provide 220v protection when the Progressive Industries brand does. I guess I flunked homework when I thought I did the right thing.

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Articles.asp?ID=279
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Old 02-14-2015, 06:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert185 View Post
This 220v issue prompted me to check what protection my 50a Surgeguard surge protector provides. Surprisingly, it does not provide 220v protection when the Progressive Industries brand does. I guess I flunked homework when I thought I did the right thing.

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Articles.asp?ID=279

I have the 30 AMP Surgegaurd with the LCD display. It shows voltage, once the start up delay is over. I don't plug the TT in until I can read the voltage and be sure there aren't any errors being displayed.
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:20 AM   #9
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That's a good way to do it.
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:46 AM   #10
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I have the 30 AMP Surgegaurd with the LCD display. It shows voltage, once the start up delay is over. I don't plug the TT in until I can read the voltage and be sure there aren't any errors being displayed.
Same thing I do! Surge protectors are ~$220... rather trash one of those than my trailer electrical system. I also carry a voltmeter and quite often check power prior to plugging in.

Aaron
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:54 AM   #11
Desert185
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But for essentially the same price, the Progressive provides better protection than the SurgeGuard once the connection is made.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:34 AM   #12
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But for essentially the same price, the Progressive provides better protection than the SurgeGuard once the connection is made.
I agree, but the only way I could get one was via mail order, besides I already owned the SurgeGuard. I much prefer the display on the SurgeGuard to the one on the Progressive one, it gives you codes that you have to go look up. SurgeGuard tells you right there what the issue is.

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Old 02-14-2015, 08:57 AM   #13
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A useful link to good information on pretesting any electrical connection before plugging any RV in to a power source. At the bottom of the page, there two links to rather inexpensive DIY power testers, 30a and 50a.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/pg/testing.htm
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Old 02-14-2015, 02:31 PM   #14
sourdough
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I guess I didn't do my homework either. I sure thought my Surgeguard would lock out the 240. Now guess I'll have to find a Progressive and hang my Surgeguard on the wall as a decoration
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
I guess I didn't do my homework either. I sure thought my Surgeguard would lock out the 240. Now guess I'll have to find a Progressive and hang my Surgeguard on the wall as a decoration
Then there was this in the SurgeGuard "More Info":

Automatically shuts off the power when any of the conditions below are present. Automatic reset on power restoration.
Mis-wired Pedestal
Power Surges
***Low (<102V) and High (>132V) Voltage***
Reverse Polarity
Dangerous Current on Ground Wire
Caution indicator light to indicate cause of power stoppage. 2 minute 16 second reset delay protects AC compressor
Weather resistant
3850 Joules

Perhaps it will shut it down? A phone call to the company may be in order.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:40 PM   #16
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I may be wrong about this, but I don't think there's a "need" to check for 220 VAC with a 50 amp power system. The way it's wired, it is always 220 VAC. There's 110 on leg A and 110 on leg B with a neutral and a ground. So, the check would be for proper voltage on each leg, ie: 102-132 VAC on leg A and B, but no requirement to check for 220 between the legs since if the legs are correct, the total MUST also be correct.... Another way to say it: If leg A and B have the proper voltage on the proper connections (which are checked by polarity and ground checks), then the voltage check is complete with no requirement to verify that "when added they are 220VAC because the 220VAC is never seen or applied within the system.

On a 30 amp system, there is the possibility of wiring the plug either as a 110 VAC or a 220 VAC, so there is a need to verify the plug is wired properly and that there is only ONE active leg connected with the corresponding neutral and ground on the other two wires. So, there is a requirement to verify wiring for 110//220 voltage.

Am I missing something?
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:19 PM   #17
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Smile Posts got me to "think'in"

Hummmmm. Posts got me to thinking. Had issues with my 2013 Cougar. Purchased a 3500/4000 watt 30A / 110 volt generator from the dealer. It was too small to run ac and microwave at the same time. That said, when connecting to site power, use the OEM cord which is 50A/ 220 volt, everything is fine. The fuse box is a double leg which can be run ether 110 or 220. In the 110 volt mode, not all outlets will work. Ones in garage are inoperative. Just got to thinking when I was measuring voltage and amps, think microwave and ac are on the same leg. Even after purchasing a 7500/ 8000 unit, ( 2 -30 amp legs) pulls down quite heavily when using both. May have to see if the two high amp usage items can be wired onto separate legs of the box. Has anyone else noticed this?
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Old 02-16-2015, 01:14 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ReadyToRoll View Post
Hummmmm. Posts got me to thinking. Had issues with my 2013 Cougar. Purchased a 3500/4000 watt 30A / 110 volt generator from the dealer. It was too small to run ac and microwave at the same time. That said, when connecting to site power, use the OEM cord which is 50A/ 220 volt, everything is fine. The fuse box is a double leg which can be run ether 110 or 220. In the 110 volt mode, not all outlets will work. Ones in garage are inoperative. Just got to thinking when I was measuring voltage and amps, think microwave and ac are on the same leg. Even after purchasing a 7500/ 8000 unit, ( 2 -30 amp legs) pulls down quite heavily when using both. May have to see if the two high amp usage items can be wired onto separate legs of the box. Has anyone else noticed this?
Just and FYI, My microwave is wired on the second (bedroom AC lug) so unless you had a second AC in the bedroom it(MW) would be on its own circuit. Which is not a big deal since we only use the 2nd AC in the hottest weather and probably not even using the M-Wave then.
randy
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Old 02-16-2015, 05:46 PM   #19
sourdough
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I think John is right. I've had my Surgeguard fail twice. Once when it did not detect voltage on one leg and once when it detected voltage on a leg it wasn't supposed to. In both cases the Surgeguard did not send any power to the trailer until the problem was rectified (on one I had to move to a different space and the other had a 2nd pedestal right beside the defective one so I just plugged into it). I think it tests each leg for what it is supposed to provide...AC/grd. If any of the four leads fail it shuts it off.
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:26 AM   #20
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So now I have a question. On my new Montana High Country with 30/50 do I need to buy a 30 and a 50 surge protector since not all campgrounds always have 50 amp?
Can I just plug my adaptor in and run the 30 through the 50 amp surge protector with a connector??
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