Newbie here, questions about dewinterizing and sanitizing for the first time.

[Festus2]

Originally Posted by {tpc}

Would it be ok to fill the fresh water tank again, but run the pump with the HW drain open? I just want to verify the positions. I assume if I can pressurize the system with the pump and the valve in the "winterized" position, that no water will flow into the HW tank, and then as soon as I open the valve water should rush in there?

tpc -

I think in a previous reply to you I mentioned that the HW tank can be filled in one of two ways: (1) by using water from the FW tank in which case you would have to run the pump; or (2) by using the city water hookup. Either method can be used. The advantages of using city water is that you don't have to run the pump, it is quieter, and usually faster.

So, to verify if you have water in the HW tank this can be accomplished in two ways as well: (1) slowly open the HW tank drain plug. It doesn't have to be totally removed - just back it off enough so that water starts to flow out. Let it run out for awhile; or (2) open the pressure valve on the tank. Look for a "lever" thingy and pull on it. Water will come out at that point if there is water in the tank.

Yes, would be the answer to your last question.

Oh yes, congratulations on finding the bypass!! Pretty soon you'll have all this mastered!

One more thing ------You should mark somehow the two positions of the bypass valve: vertical to ...... horizontal to..... or some other thing so that next time you have to turn the little handle you will know which position does what. There is always the remote possibility that you could forget ----- draw a diagram with directions...

[Mike1Pam]

Originally Posted by {tpc}

Ok Im going to try again. Maybe this time it will be easier.


Step one: Remove caps from red, blue, and FW tank lines, open HW bypass valve, connect to city water and run until lines run clear.

Step two: Replace all 3 caps, close HW tank bypass.

Step three: Fill fresh water tank full of water with a half cup of bleach. Let sit overnight.

Step four: Open all 3 caps again, let water drain out. Close caps, fill with water, let it out again. Close caps, fill with water and taste from kitchen sink? to see if bleach taste is gone.

Step five: Open HW bypass to allow fresh water into tank. Then I can turn on the HW heater.

Does that about cover it? I still am unsure about what you mean for the HW tank bypass, about the water pouring out of it when flushing the lines. Pour out of where and into what?

Hello,
I am a New Newbie to RVing and have a question about step three above. How do you add bleach to your fresh water? I see how to fill the fresh water tank but not how to add anything to it. I am getting ready to dewinterize my new 2014 Montana High Country for the first time. Also in this thread, I see where some people say to open the HW valve before flushing out the anti-freeze and others say you should not open the valve before all of the anti-freeze is out of your lines? Which is a better option?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Mike1Pam

Hello,
I am a New Newbie to RVing and have a question about step three above. How do you add bleach to your fresh water? I see how to fill the fresh water tank but not how to add anything to it. I am getting ready to dewinterize my new 2014 Montana High Country for the first time. Also in this thread, I see where some people say to open the HW valve before flushing out the anti-freeze and others say you should not open the valve before all of the anti-freeze is out of your lines? Which is a better option?

I mix 1 cup of Clorox with a gallon of fresh water, use a funnel and pour it into the gravity fill port on the side of my RV. If you don't have a gravity fill port (some newer RV's don't) you could remove the screen from the fresh water vent and use a funnel to pour it in that way. ALWAYS follow the Clorox solution with fresh water to rinse the Clorox off the plastic hose. I wouldn't pour undiluted Clorox into the tank, it may damage the plastic tube that connects the tank and the sidewall fill port.

RV antifreeze is corrosive to the anode rod in Suburban water heaters and in Atwood water heaters, the "anode" is actually an aluminum lining on the tank, so you don't want any antifreeze inside your tank. It can be flushed out, but why even introduce it knowing it's corrosive to the anode? I would suggest flushing all the water lines of antifreeze, then when they are clean, open the low point drains and flush them, then open the HWH bypass and fill the tank. Don't forget to put new Teflon tape on the anode threads before installing it. If it corrodes in place, it's a "bear" to remove. Also, don't forget to flush the antifreeze out of the outside shower.

[Festus2]

On your model I'm not sure how you fill up your FW tank. On ours, there is a "potable" water filler inlet with a screw-on cap which is located adjacent to our city water inlet.
I simply remove the cap and pour a solution of water and bleach into the potable water inlet.

I leave the HW bypass valve closed when I do the flushing. This prevents any RV antifreeze from entering the HW tank. And since no water is getting into the tank, it really doesn't matter. Over the course of the winter, I leave the drain plug/anode out so that the tank is always "open".

[{tpc}]

So what I found out is, in the pictures it is in normal mode. When vertical it is "winterized" mode.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions and help!!

[GMcKenzie]

Hey Festus.

On your unit is the water heater buried in the back corner where you can't get at it? I was looking at the thread on the 3 valves and can't see any way of doing that with where my heater is.

[Festus2]

My HW heater and the bypass are fairly accessible. It is not buried in the back corner but is against an outer wall of course. There is a removable panel - under the stove - and you can easily see the tank and the bypass. It's also within reach so on our Cougar, it's quite easy to get at.

[GMcKenzie]

Originally Posted by Festus2

My HW heater and the bypass are fairly accessible. It is not buried in the back corner but is against an outer wall of course. There is a removable panel - under the stove - and you can easily see the tank and the bypass. It's also within reach so on our Cougar, it's quite easy to get at.

Huh.

I can see the tank under the stove but the valve is at the far end of the tank. I can't see if and for the first couple of years, winterized by feel only. I can't see any way to get in there to convert to a 3 valve setup.

Now I get to my valve by pulling the bottom drawer and reaching in through a hole I drilled.

[Festus2]

The bypass valve on our Suburban HW tank is located, not at the far end of the tank, but at the end closest to "me" - right in sight and within reach. No need to find and turn it by "feel". Maybe you have an Atwood tank ???.

[GMcKenzie]

Nope. Suburban. Just must be installed differently. It was all I could do to reach the valve (and I'm 6') so I ended up cutting a hole in the panel and now reach it by pulling the lower drawer out (if I am making any sense).

If you are anywhere near Harrison the 2nd week of August, I can show it to you. And provide beer.