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07-06-2013, 07:59 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Airdrie Alberta
Posts: 166
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Having a hard time finding the box, went to Lowes today and they do not sell it here, went on Home Depots website and they have it in the States, but not on the Canadian website. The box is going to be the hardest to get.
The wire is under $5 a Meter (a meter is roughly 3 feet), will have to measure to find out how much needed.
I will most likely rent a trenching machine, and a cement mixer so that I can pour a pad for the post. Sink a steel 4 x 4 post into the cement. Set it back far enough that I do not run into it in the future.
At the same time I will probably run a 15 amp line for running stuff in the backyard later on.
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2014 Dodge 3500 Laramie 6.7 Cummins, Exhaust Brake.
2013 Cougar High Country 315RES
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07-07-2013, 06:19 AM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Rusty,
Renting a trencher can save a significant bit of "back work" but you won't need a cement mixer to set the post. I'd recommend considering a 4x4 pressure treated post (if allowed by Canadian code) rather than steel. It will probably last longer and if, by chance, a steel post fills with water, when it freezes, it will split on you. Then you'll have one mess to deal with.....
As for the cement mixer, just dig your hole with a post hole digger. You only need to go down about 3 ft. Set the post, pour a bag of redi-mix concrete in the hole around the post and add a bucket of water. Tomorrow, you'll have a post that won't come out of the ground.
No matter which way you "cement it in" Make sure you add your conduit to the pole BEFORE you add concrete, after it hardens you won't be able to get the underground part of the conduit close enough to the pole to "look right"
I always dig my trench and the post hole, run my wire in conduit, attach the conduit to the post, after it's in the ground, attach my box, make sure everything works and then, after I'm satisfied that all is "good" I pour the bag of redi-mix down the hole. Tomorrow, it'll be ready to use
Good luck with the project.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-08-2013, 05:58 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Airdrie Alberta
Posts: 166
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Thanks JR.
Yeah you are right, there really is no need for a cement mixer.....I have set posts with just a couple of bags and a wheelbarrow.
I should have enough pressure treated 4 x 4's kicking around.
We are heading to Montana in a next month, maybe I will stop off at Lowes, or Home Depot to see about getting a Post Box.
__________________
2014 Dodge 3500 Laramie 6.7 Cummins, Exhaust Brake.
2013 Cougar High Country 315RES
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07-08-2013, 06:40 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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07-08-2013, 07:32 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Airdrie Alberta
Posts: 166
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Will probably look into it in Kalispell.
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2014 Dodge 3500 Laramie 6.7 Cummins, Exhaust Brake.
2013 Cougar High Country 315RES
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07-08-2013, 02:13 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SWTN
Posts: 32
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Although it's been a while - I wouldn't believe that EMT could be used. At least not directly buried
There is no seal at joints, so water WILL get into the pipes....
SCH40 PVC properly glued doesn't leak - Be sure that neither end is open to above.
Use the largest wire that you can afford. 8AWG THHN would be adequate.. While you can legally run 3 #8s in 1/2 conduit, using 3/4 (or even 1") will make the pull much easier. Get a tube of wire pulling compound when you buy your material.
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'07 Laredo
'05 F-250 Diesel TT
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07-12-2013, 10:27 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 105
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Alright I've read it somewhere but don't remember where. Is there a difference in the wiring of 120 or 240 in a 4 wire 50 amp configuration? X and Y each get 110 and W gets neutral.
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2011 F250 crew cab 4x4 6.7
2013 high country 338db
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07-15-2013, 07:16 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 22
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Ground at the end of run.
I added a ground rod at the end of the run. It's something I read about, not sure where. Something about the run leaving the home and giving it a place to draw the power to if a problem comes up.
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07-16-2013, 03:44 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SWTN
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy77
I added a ground rod at the end of the run. It's something I read about, not sure where. Something about the run leaving the home and giving it a place to draw the power to if a problem comes up.
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The ground rod MUST be connected back to your primary ground -- Like where your meter is.
MUST
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'07 Laredo
'05 F-250 Diesel TT
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07-17-2013, 03:31 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikell
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I may be wrong, but for an outlet 80 feet away the "total circuit length" would be 160 feet. So "one half the total circuit length" would be 80 feet, which calls for #6 wire.
Bean
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2013 Springdale 294BHSSR
2012 Ford F150 Supercrew 5.5' bed, 3.73 gears, Ecoboost engine, Max-tow package
2013 Savings account = $0 (LOL)
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07-17-2013, 09:02 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Fla
Posts: 351
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__________________
2012 Fuzion 310 Toy hauler
2010 Dodge DRW 4x4 3500
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07-18-2013, 11:32 AM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Yakima, Wash.
Posts: 55
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OK. I have read many of the coments, so as an electrican, I'll throw in my nickels worth (inflation). 30 amp circuits are (for RV's) a single pole circuit - 120V. Rusty, because of the distance you wish to run, you should be using #6 THHN OR THWN not NMB. NMB (what a house is wired with) is not designed to be run in conduit. Current creates heat and 120 volt equipment draws more current than 240 volt equipment thus the more current=more heat. Buied conduit will trap heat. For ease of pulling wire use 1 1/4inch PVC, buried 18inches deep (deeper if code requires in your area). Also use at least #8 wire for your ground, and drive a ground rod next to your pedestal. Most local codes concider this a branch circuit which require ground rod. Remember, current is like water - the bigger the pipe (wire), the more water (current) you get with the same pressure (voltage) at the other end. 50 amp systems are different, but since you said you were doing a 30 amp, won't get into that. Good luck.
PND
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07-19-2013, 09:46 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Okanagan, BC
Posts: 916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
We are heading to Montana in a next month, maybe I will stop off at Lowes, or Home Depot to see about getting a Post Box.
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I'd be leery of doing this simply because it won't be CSA approved and if anything goes wrong, there may be liability/insurance issues.
No reason why it won't work, but I'd try to source one in Canada.
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2010 Cougar 30RKS
2015 GMC Sierra Max Trailer
"Drinks for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2"
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07-20-2013, 09:01 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 105
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I finished wiring my 50 amp into the breaker box yesterday. Long project and hard work digging but nice to have it done. Don't think I made it to 18" everywhere but tried my hardest. Only plan on using the post when we pack and unpack with the ac. 5vr stays at moms house for storage under the carport.
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2011 F250 crew cab 4x4 6.7
2013 high country 338db
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