Removing coroplast on Sprinter

[Danimal713]

I removed all the Coroplast from our 2017 Crossroads Sunset Trails 291RK (both Ketstone and Crossroads are part of Thor I believe). I was modifying/remedying deficient "extreme Weather package. There is a 2" vent from furnace (in rear) but came down just behind the rear gray (kitchen) tank so effectively worthless. The fasteners I used a hex head sized same as the fasteners and my DeWalt drill/driver with a screwdriver to pry on the fastener as it spun and most came right out. I cut the Coroplast into 6 sections (care where you cut til you know what is in there so as not to cut something you don't want to cut. Once I had Coroplast down in a section I could easily see where to cut. I used PVC pipe to route vent forward so heat actually went forward. I put pipe insulation on all water lines and used spray foam to seal the floor holes. I need to go back in and add some outlets in better places but that is a future project. I used self-tapping metal screws and fender washers to hold Coroplast better. I did need to remove the gas pipe along one side all the way to rear but did it in sections as I worked toward rear. I also added closed cell foam insulation covered in foil both sides (R-17) in a big roll left over from adding insulation to my shop just inside Coroplast. Also taped to inside frame with silver 3M HVAC tape. Gorilla tape was used on seams. Some let go so just before last trip I had to redo but used a hair dryer to heat it so it stuck better. I also added a couple 2X4 across frame in a couple areas to support sags. Eventually I will brace with metal angle across the seams when I add the outlets. The camper is warmer in colder weather and this was so worth doing. A creeper sure helped working under there for all 34' of the length. The Coroplast is a PITB to play with but doable.

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by Danimal713

I removed all the Coroplast from our 2017 Crossroads Sunset Trails 291RK (both Ketstone and Crossroads are part of Thor I believe). I was modifying/remedying deficient "extreme Weather package. There is a 2" vent from furnace (in rear) but came down just behind the rear gray (kitchen) tank so effectively worthless. The fasteners I used a hex head sized same as the fasteners and my DeWalt drill/driver with a screwdriver to pry on the fastener as it spun and most came right out. I cut the Coroplast into 6 sections (care where you cut til you know what is in there so as not to cut something you don't want to cut. Once I had Coroplast down in a section I could easily see where to cut. I used PVC pipe to route vent forward so heat actually went forward. I put pipe insulation on all water lines and used spray foam to seal the floor holes. I need to go back in and add some outlets in better places but that is a future project. I used self-tapping metal screws and fender washers to hold Coroplast better. I did need to remove the gas pipe along one side all the way to rear but did it in sections as I worked toward rear. I also added closed cell foam insulation covered in foil both sides (R-17) in a big roll left over from adding insulation to my shop just inside Coroplast. Also taped to inside frame with silver 3M HVAC tape. Gorilla tape was used on seams. Some let go so just before last trip I had to redo but used a hair dryer to heat it so it stuck better. I also added a couple 2X4 across frame in a couple areas to support sags. Eventually I will brace with metal angle across the seams when I add the outlets. The camper is warmer in colder weather and this was so worth doing. A creeper sure helped working under there for all 34' of the length. The Coroplast is a PITB to play with but doable.

Your post brought back (fond?) memories of 5 days of doing essentially what you did. I wish I had known to try the small socket trick to remove the nails. The weenie 2” warming duct you described really was useless. 2X3 laid from frame to frame was useful to flatten Coroplast sagging just as you reported. I also found 2 places that Keystone had run the 50 amp shore power electrical wire UNDER the truss frame rather than through it. If someone were to run a screw through those areas to secure the coroplast, it wouldn’t end well.