Freshwater tank filling when hooked to city connection

[erm626]

Sometimes just running the pump for a few seconds with the City Water off. Might solve the problem !

[bobbecky]

Originally Posted by erm626

Wouldn't a ball valve work just as well instead of the check valve ? Just shut if off if not using the pump ?

The only problem with that is, you would have to remove the wall in the pass through compartment every time you would need to operate the valve. The check valve is automatic.

[jimborokz]

Originally Posted by Sarge2

Honestly I would have thought it was in the fill position also going by the little valve decal... it's a terrible labeling for sure...

Sort of like the disconnect switch.

[CHR13]

Good day and a quick question, I am having thus same issue and problem with the fresh water tank filling and overflowing from the tank vent on the side of the 5th wheel...I have just replaced the pump and still have the same issue/problem.
I have seen the picture of the check valve on the pressure side and since I don't believe it is the valve in the pump now because I have replaced it, would a check valve be installed on a different line else where after the pump to keep this issue from happening?
I have heard that a check valve on the discharge side of the pump is where most folks install the check valve?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by CHR13

Good day and a quick question, I am having thus same issue and problem with the fresh water tank filling and overflowing from the tank vent on the side of the 5th wheel...I have just replaced the pump and still have the same issue/problem.
I have seen the picture of the check valve on the pressure side and since I don't believe it is the valve in the pump now because I have replaced it, would a check valve be installed on a different line else where after the pump to keep this issue from happening?
I have heard that a check valve on the discharge side of the pump is where most folks install the check valve?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

What brand of water pump do you have? Are you using a pressure regulator on your city water connection? If so, what type/brand? What is the city water pressure that is going into your trailer city water port?

[CHR13]

It is a Pentair Shurflow pump....yes I have a regulator on the city water supply and it stays at about 35 pounds, 40 at the most.
To say the least, I am a little perplexed about the issue and am wondering if an inline check valve is my best option?

[JRTJH]

Your pump has an "integral check valve" built into the pump head. It has no "exterior to the pump check valve" in a "normal installation"...

That said, when Keystone (and most other RV manufacturers) built your trailer, they installed the fresh water tank and then drilled holes for the fittings. The "drill shavings" typically fall into the tank. Once you buy the trailer and fill the water tank, those "plastic shards" will be picked up by the suction from the water pump and transferred to the pump diaphragm. There they'll get stuck in the pumping mechanism and cause the pump "backflow valve" to leak past the city water pressure and then subsequently it will fill the fresh water tank.

The "fix" if you can call it that, is to follow the pump manufacturer's installation instructions (something Keystone fails to do in almost all their trailer lines) and install a "50 mesh intake screen" commonly called an "inlet filter or inlet strainer" between the pump intake and the fresh water tank. That way, you'll "screen out" any shavings or construction debris, including sand and silt that might come from your tank or from filling the tank. Consider that any "damaged water hose lining" will also be forced into your water tank from a damaged or "constantly bent, folded and coiled" fresh water hose....

To clean out the existing pump head, remove the pump, disassemble it (pay close attention to how you take it apart so you'll know how to reassemble it). Clean, rinse all the components, dry them and reassemble the pump. If the diaphragm is/was not damaged by the debris, it should work properly and correct your problem...

You can buy an aftermarket check valve to install at the pump outlet port (to prevent city water pressure from forcing its way into the pump, but that is a "band-aid fix" as the pump diaphragm has foreign particles in it and they will eventually scratch/tear the diaphragm and you'll be buying a new pump head.

So, one afternoon when you've got nothing to do, fix your pump and install that strainer on the inlet line from the fresh water tank. I think that will fix your problem "for the life of the pump".....

[CHR13]

Question, so is the flow arrow pointing up?