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Old 05-17-2015, 11:52 AM   #1
CampDestinations.com
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Water heat tank cracked. What went wrong?

Ok, this is the 5th season on current travel trailer and we just did our shakedown trip. Last Fall I winterized as usual, draining water from lines and hot water heater, switching the heater bypass and then filling with pink stuff. When I hooked up the water this weekend and turned the bypass valve to fill the hot water heater tank, water started leaking onto the ground below the trailer. At first I thought I cracked some plumbing since it was right by the low point drains. But it was coming from the water heater.

Further inspection, which included pulling off some of the foam insulation, revealed a good size crack in the seam weld of the tank. See attached photos.

So, this is a 4-year old tank as it's dated from Jan 2011. I seemed to be doing the right thing each year when winterizing and the tank gets flushed once per season, but clearly something went wrong somewhere.

Water heater is the Atwood GC6AA-10E, 6-Gallon Gas/Electric DSI.

I'm going to replace the unit rather than attempt repair, but I'd hate to do this to another one. Any thoughts?









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Old 05-17-2015, 11:58 AM   #2
Javi
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Sounds like it didn't fully drain, or it got water pushed into it after you replaced the plug.. You probably already know to open the pressure relief valve while draining and to leave the plug out during the winter..
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:00 PM   #3
Festus2
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Is there any possibility that you accidentally turned the propane HW tank switch to ON before there was any water in the tank? If the electric switch was accidentally flipped to ON, it would simply burn the element out and probably not cause any damage to the tank itself.
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:15 PM   #4
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Sounds like it didn't fully drain, or it got water pushed into it after you replaced the plug.. You probably already know to open the pressure relief valve while draining and to leave the plug out during the winter..
Yes to the pressure relief valve. But I hadn't been leaving the plug out.


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Is there any possibility that you accidentally turned the propane HW tank switch to ON before there was any water in the tank? If the electric switch was accidentally flipped to ON, it would simply burn the element out and probably not cause any damage to the tank itself.
I doubt it, the DW is usually the first one to the panel when we set up. But I'm pretty sure by now she knows not to touch the HW switches.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:07 PM   #5
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Sounds like it didn't fully drain, or it got water pushed into it after you replaced the plug.. You probably already know to open the pressure relief valve while draining and to leave the plug out during the winter..
I don't leave the plug out in winter , but I do leave it loosely threaded into the heater. I prefer to make sure no bugs or other creepy crawlys get in there. never had a problem.
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:31 PM   #6
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In today's "Adventure RV" ad, they are having a sale on replacement Atwood water heater tanks. http://www.adventurerv.net/atwood-ga...2afbb-94159909

Not sure if you'd be interested in rebuilding for $200 vs replacing for $500, but it's an option.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:06 PM   #7
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In today's "Adventure RV" ad, they are having a sale on replacement Atwood water heater tanks. http://www.adventurerv.net/atwood-ga...2afbb-94159909

Not sure if you'd be interested in rebuilding for $200 vs replacing for $500, but it's an option.
Thanks John. I went and checked out their deal. As I was browsing I noticed they had the full unit (w/o front cover) for $309 (sale). Shipping for both is roughly the same. Since the labor involved to remove/replace is about the same, I'll probably just replace the whole unit.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:21 PM   #8
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That model, G-6AE, is "gas only" It does not have an electric element. I'm not sure if it even has the option of installing an aftermarket electric element. Those, BTW, cost about $100 if it would fit.

Good Luck
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:47 PM   #9
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That model, G-6AE, is "gas only" It does not have an electric element. I'm not sure if it even has the option of installing an aftermarket electric element. Those, BTW, cost about $100 if it would fit.

Good Luck

Good call. I saw electronic ignition and thought "DSI". I did find a few with the identical model on eBay. Here's one. This looks to me like the right WH -- http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Atwood-R...177428&vxp=mtr
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:51 AM   #10
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That looks like a good option. I'd contact the seller and be sure it's not a "salvaged" unit or a damaged unit. If it's a "legit" new unit, that's a "darn good price". If you do decide to change out the water heater, keep your old one. Many of the parts are interchangeable and just the "ignition control board" is over $100. Good Luck
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:12 AM   #11
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CampDestinations.com, Howdy;

Looking at the pix you posted with this, and reading what you said;
"Further inspection, which included pulling off some of the foam insulation,
revealed a good size crack in the seam weld of the tank."

The welded seam should be the strongest part of the tank. Have you
talked to the manufacturer to see if, perhaps, they might be experiencing
any other weld failures? They might just be happy for the "heads-up" in
case there may be a problem.
Who knows, might get reimbursed for the new one .....
Just my thoughts ...

hankaye
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Old 10-30-2015, 05:58 PM   #12
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CampDestinations.com, Howdy;

Looking at the pix you posted with this, and reading what you said;
"Further inspection, which included pulling off some of the foam insulation,
revealed a good size crack in the seam weld of the tank."

The welded seam should be the strongest part of the tank. Have you
talked to the manufacturer to see if, perhaps, they might be experiencing
any other weld failures? They might just be happy for the "heads-up" in
case there may be a problem.
Who knows, might get reimbursed for the new one .....
Just my thoughts ...

hankaye

This is my first time being back on the forums for quite some time, so I'm just now reading your reply. That's a good idea. At this point I no longer have the old tank and I've already bought a new one, but I may reach out anyway. Early in the summer I was able to pick up the exact model number, brand new on ebay for just a hair over $300 with free shipping. It was a fairly easy swap, took less than an hour and everything ran fine over the summer. I was surprised that I didn't even need to adjust the burner. It seemed to have just the right flame right from the factory. The old heater went to the recycling yard.

One thing I noticed when I pulled the old one out. I had installed a brass fitting to allow me to open the drain plug without a wrench. Well, I think what happened is that I trusted that when draining and some sediment built up behind it. So when I thought it was done draining, it wasn't. With the new one I'm keeping the factory plastic "plug" and bought a sediment "wand" to help wash it out each season.

As a heads-up for anyone else looking at these, this was the brass drain valve. When I took the old one off there was a bunch of junk on the inside. Wish now that I had taken a few pics. Take extra care to remove this valve to wash out and winterize, if you use one.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...in-valve/55605
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