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Old 08-04-2014, 09:25 AM   #1
DarkElf
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RH Turn Signal Doesn't Work

Hello all. I am new here so I hope I am not posting this question in the wrong place.

I have a 2009 29.5 foot Keystone Montana Mountaineer that has a few problems.

The one I'm dealing with right now is the right side turn signal will not work and I can't figure out why.
If I swap the bulbs from left to right things remain the same. The left turn signal works but the right one will not. So, I know it's not the bulb.
I swapped the entire light fixture left to right and the problem remains the same.
I SEEM to be getting voltage when I put a meter on it but to be honest I'm am not entirely sure the meter is working right. I'm going out to get it new batteries shortly. I know the batteries are old.

Do these campers have a fuse for the turn signals or would those be found in the truck?

Thanks for any help anyone may have to offer.
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:09 AM   #2
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Your going to have to start with a working ohm meter, volt meter. Always check your grounds. Then I would check continuity from the trailer connector in front to the rear turn signal, again, check grounds. Your fuse is within your truck, but if your truck turn signal works, that will not be it. Again, check grounds, have I said that enough yet . Get your meter working and lets go from there.
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:09 AM   #3
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What kind of truck do you have? When testing for power on a 12v system I find it best to use a 12v test lite. Check the connection between the truck and RV probe the truck side to see if you have power there (it should flash).
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:38 AM   #4
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Thanks guy!
Yes. You are quite correct Yosemitebob, grounds are important.
I like the test light idea Brantlaker. I think will get one of those because it SEEMS like I am getting a different voltage reading on the right turn signal than the left at the truck female connector - I THINK. Again my voltage meter seems to be acting weird. Got some new batteries and will see if it works any differently.
Perhaps the meter itself has an issue.
I will try these things out and get back to you.
Thanks again guys.
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:08 PM   #5
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Based on what you're saying, you may have an issue with your truck 7 pin connector. (it SEEMS like I am getting a different voltage reading on the right turn signal than the left at the truck female connector).

Use this schematic (Pay attention to where the keyway is so you don't get the wrong pins) and check from pin 2 to pin 6 (right TS) and from pin 5 to pin 6 (left TS) with the truck's turn signals on, you should have "blinking" power at those sites. If you do, the problem is in your trailer wiring. If you don't, it's somewhere in the truck's 7 pin tow umbilical.

As Brantlaker said, it's simpler and much easier to use a test light than it is to use a voltmeter to check for voltage in the umbilical wiring.

Let us know what you find. Good Luck.
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Old 08-09-2014, 04:34 PM   #6
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OK everybody.

I got a test light and discovered that YES, the signal for the right turn signal was NOT being sent from the truck to the camper.
As it turns out, it WAS a fuse. Seems there is a separate fuse box for trailers from the main fuse box for the truck in the Silverados. It is inside located on the left side of the dash. You have to have the driver side door opened to see it. Soooooooooooo, the truck turn signal worked fine because the main fuse box fuse for the right turn signal was ok. BUT, the 10 amp fuse for the TRAILER right hand turn signal was burned out, thus causing the right turn signal on the camper NOT to work. SO, THIS problem is solved.

My second issue is the camper brakes. Turns out the shoes are shot and need to be replaced. PLUS I THINK there is something wrong with my brake control - not sure. You tell me ... there is voltage running to the blue wire (brakes) even when the truck is not running or the brakes are not applied.

What do you pros out there think?
Also, can you recommend a place for my to get a good price on brake parts?

Thanks again for any and ALL help.
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:13 PM   #7
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What brake controller do you have?
http://www.easternmarine.com

AKA trailer parts super store. You need to know brand of axle (dexter, Alko, etc) and shoe diameter and width. We often order the complete assembly including the backing plate as it's easier. Just 4 or 5 bolts, and reconnect the two wires.
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
What brake controller do you have?
http://www.easternmarine.com

AKA trailer parts super store. You need to know brand of axle (dexter, Alko, etc) and shoe diameter and width. We often order the complete assembly including the backing plate as it's easier. Just 4 or 5 bolts, and reconnect the two wires.
OH! OK, Chuckster. I will have to check the axle type tomorrow. I THINK they are Dexters. They look right.
I like the idea of purchasing the assembly and simply swapping them out.
Thanks for the reply.
I will get back to you tomorrow.
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:50 PM   #9
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No problem, when you order them just remember there is a left and right. Left is road side and right is curb side.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:15 AM   #10
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No problem, when you order them just remember there is a left and right. Left is road side and right is curb side.
Thanks Chuckster.

I checked the brake control under the dash and it says "Voyager" and it said something like Tekonda - something like that. I should have brought a pen and paper when I went out. The old memory isn't what it used to be, LOL.

My axles are Dexter #53573.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:47 AM   #11
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The voyager is made by Tekonsha. It will have an adjustment wheel on both sides, the one on the P/S adjusts how much voltage goes to the trailer. The one on the D/S adjusts how aggressive the voltage is applied. IIRC that controller uses a pendulum, and depending on how it's hanging in relation to level ground will affect voltage readings.

Try rotating the left (D/S) a little and see if the reading changes. If the pendulum is hanging 90* to level, I don't think you should have any voltage.

If you go to tekonsha's website, you can download owners manuals for proper installation and set-up. FWIW the prodigy eliminates all the pendulum stuff and doesn't care what angle you mount it as long as it's "in-line" with the front/back.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:50 AM   #12
DarkElf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
What brake controller do you have?
http://www.easternmarine.com

AKA trailer parts super store. You need to know brand of axle (dexter, Alko, etc) and shoe diameter and width. We often order the complete assembly including the backing plate as it's easier. Just 4 or 5 bolts, and reconnect the two wires.
OH! BTW ... Will I need to replace the bearing seals when doing the brake job? Does the seal get removed/damaged?
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:54 AM   #13
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I would use this opportunity to inspect and repack all the bearings, so yes new seals would be in order.

If your NOT going to do any maintance to the drums, then you probably could get by without new ones. They are really cheap enough IMO that it would be foolish not to service the bearings.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
The voyager is made by Tekonsha. It will have an adjustment wheel on both sides, the one on the P/S adjusts how much voltage goes to the trailer. The one on the D/S adjusts how aggressive the voltage is applied. IIRC that controller uses a pendulum, and depending on how it's hanging in relation to level ground will affect voltage readings.

Try rotating the left (D/S) a little and see if the reading changes. If the pendulum is hanging 90* to level, I don't think you should have any voltage.

If you go to tekonsha's website, you can download owners manuals for proper installation and set-up. FWIW the prodigy eliminates all the pendulum stuff and doesn't care what angle you mount it as long as it's "in-line" with the front/back.
That's weird. HOW the control is mounted makes a difference on how it works? Gotta go check that out to see what that's all about. I bought this truck used and this controller was already in it so I know nothing about it.
Is this "prodigy" you speak of a brand?
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:09 AM   #15
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Prodigy is made by tekonsha. The BEST there is in my opinion.

If your controller uses a pendulum then yes it's orientation to "level" will set the pendulum at a particular angle and without adjusting the left wheel, may have it "set" at maximum braking without any braking being needed.

The pendulum styles depend on the weight swinging forward as you step on the brake pedal to apply voltage to the trailer. That's why proper positioning and adjusting is critical with this style.

The prodigy uses some advanced technology to accomplish the task without internal moving parts. I bought mine somewhere about 2000 and never looked back. I even took it out of my last TV and moved it to my current one in '08.
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Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:19 AM   #16
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Prodigy is made by tekonsha. The BEST there is in my opinion.

If your controller uses a pendulum then yes it's orientation to "level" will set the pendulum at a particular angle and without adjusting the left wheel, may have it "set" at maximum braking without any braking being needed.

The pendulum styles depend on the weight swinging forward as you step on the brake pedal to apply voltage to the trailer. That's why proper positioning and adjusting is critical with this style.

The prodigy uses some advanced technology to accomplish the task without internal moving parts. I bought mine somewhere about 2000 and never looked back. I even took it out of my last TV and moved it to my current one in '08.
WOW Chuckster! You have been MOST HELPFUL! Very valuable information here. THANKS!
Looking at the Prodigies online right now in fact.
Another question if you don't mind ... If I got a Prodigy would it be a simple matter of taking out the Voyager and putting in the Prodigy? Same plug and stuff? Or do I need to replace anything else under the dash?
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:36 AM   #17
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RH Turn Signal Doesn't Work

Both are 4 wires, may have to cut and splice but the colors will be the same. Depending on the mount used they can be the same. I used the slide in pocket.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:56 AM   #18
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Both are 4 wires, may have to cut and splice but the colors will be the same. Depending on the mount used they can be the same. I used the slide in pocket.
Thanks for all your help Chuckster. You've been invaluable.

Going to have my wife call the local RV dealer tomorrow and get pricing and availablity on the TEKONSHA Prodigy® P3 Proportional Electric Brake Controller
and the left hand and right hand brake assemblies and seals.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:58 AM   #19
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Your very welcome. RV dealer is going to be higher price than other sources IMO.
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