Inverter Prep?

JetPants · 04-25-2022, 03:00 PM

Hello!
New to the forums here, and just picked up my 2022 Passport 219BH from the dealer. When shopping, I noticed there was a panel in the passthrough storage and it said "inverter prep". Also - I have the solar package with the 2 100W panels pre-installed at the factory, as well as outlets in the camper marked as inverter compatable. I had made some assumptions about what that all meant (specifically the inverter prep panel), and the sales folks were less than clear about other than saying "it's prepped for an inverter". TBH, I didn't ask either. Well, I was surprised to find upon removing the panel there is just a loop of yellow "romex" wire.

It doesn't feel like one end is loose or just tucked into the wall. There is no pass through (that I can tell) to run the inverter cables to the external battery.

I'm not sure how to get started installing my inverter. There doesn't appear to be anything online for this. I'm trying to avoid bring it back to the dealer to have them install. Has anyone done this? Any pictures or anything else to help get started would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

**chuckster57** · 04-25-2022, 03:12 PM

That “loop” is from the breaker panel to the outlets. When you install an inverter make sure it has “auto transfer” or “pass through” capacity. Then the HOT side of the Romex goes to AC IN on the inverter and the other goes to AC OUT. Then you hook up the 12V from the battery(s) to the DC IN. Use the right size wire based on the distance from the battery. Remote panel is usually included on quality inverters.

Easiest way to test which side of the Romex is “LIVE” is with the shore power OFF ( unplugged) cut the loop and cap the black wires. I use a “current senser” to identify which side has power. Then unplug and proceed to use the LIVE side to the AC IN.

Essvar · 04-25-2022, 03:13 PM

That romex wire is currently an uninterrupted loop coming from your main BUS. To install the inverter you will need to cut the wire and find the hot side, which will go into the AC in port of a pass through inverter, the cold side will go to the AC out port. You must get a Pass-Through inverter (pure-sine highly recommended) or your outlets will not work unless the inverter is turned on.

Incoming DC power will come from your batteries.

pasayten · 04-25-2022, 03:19 PM

The romex is for the output of the inverter... probably a loop... maybe cut and feed both. There should also be the 12v inverter supply wires from the battery... You would also want a disconnect switch added between the battery and the inverter... The dealer should be very familliar with all of this.

We have a 2021 cougar 26rbs and it came with the "Off The Grid" package of a 2000 watt inverter, battery disconnect switch, and 120v wiring to outlets in the trailer in the bedroom, kitchen, and media center.

If dealer cannot help you with how to install inverter, call keystone or submit an inquiry.

JetPants · 04-25-2022, 04:48 PM

Thanks everyone! Pass thru or Auto Transfer inverters are a little harder to find...

Last question - what's the best way to run the DC cables from the inverter to the battery? I assume through the floor and out the front as I'm not keen on the idea of punching a hole through the front of my brand new Camper...

Thanks!

**chuckster57** · 04-25-2022, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JetPants

Thanks everyone! Pass thru or Auto Transfer inverters are a little harder to find...

Last question - what's the best way to run the DC cables from the inverter to the battery? I assume through the floor and out the front as I'm not keen on the idea of punching a hole through the front of my brand new Camper...

Thanks!

I would probably take that route. Have you looked at GoPower and Renology?

sahively · 04-25-2022, 06:55 PM

You punch a hole through the floor of your brand new RV.

Gotta do it, and make certain you use a sufficient wire gauge.

Essvar · 04-25-2022, 08:41 PM

https://www.donrowe.com/Xantrex-817-...p/817-2000.htm

I drilled holes from my basement into the battery compartment. It’s painful, but quick

MarkEHansen · 04-27-2022, 12:48 PM

When checking for the sufficient wire gage, remember that the charts which show what size wire you need to support your current at a particular distance, the distance is the round trip: From the battery to the inverter back to the battery.

**chuckster57** · 04-27-2022, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

When checking for the sufficient wire gage, remember that the charts which show what size wire you need to support your current at a particular distance, the distance is the round trip: From the battery to the inverter back to the battery.

I have always been told it’s just the distance from the battery. And cables need to be the same length.

MarkEHansen · 04-27-2022, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I have always been told it’s just the distance from the battery. And cables need to be the same length.

I read the small print on one of those charts for sizing cable and learned that way.

sahively · 04-27-2022, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I have always been told it’s just the distance from the battery. And cables need to be the same length.

Depends on the chart you look at. Some use round trip, some use batt distance. 😉

**chuckster57** · 04-27-2022, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

I read the small print on one of those charts for sizing cable and learned that way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sahively

Depends on the chart you look at. Some use round trip, some use batt distance. 😉

I guess next install I’ll have to read more…Thanks.

MarkEHansen · 04-27-2022, 02:16 PM

Yeah, this is the one I used: https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437

I thought this was the standard - oh well.

JetPants · 04-30-2022, 05:30 AM

Thanks everyone! First mistake was I have the wrong inverter. I do not have a pass through inverter. Once I get that part figured out I will look at attempting, but this is way more involved than I naively thought...

**flybouy** · 04-30-2022, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JetPants

Thanks everyone! First mistake was I have the wrong inverter. I do not have a pass through inverter. Once I get that part figured out I will look at attempting, but this is way more involved than I naively thought...

If you don't have a pass-thru inverter and don't wish to replace it with one then you need to install (or have installed) a transfer switch. That's a relay that when electricity is applied via shore power the relay will energize disconnecting the inverter and directing the electricity to the circuit from the shore power source. Depending on your inverter size and physical layout of the space it may well be more advantageous to replace the inverter and sell the current one to help offset the cost.

Nitehawk · 05-07-2022, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

Yeah, this is the one I used: https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437

I thought this was the standard - oh well.

This was put out a few months ago by Renogy. found it interesting and helpful in calculating wire gauges and other info

jconforti · 02-08-2023, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JetPants

Thanks everyone! Pass thru or Auto Transfer inverters are a little harder to find...

Quote:

Originally Posted by JetPants

Thanks everyone! First mistake was I have the wrong inverter. I do not have a pass through inverter. Once I get that part figured out I will look at attempting, but this is way more involved than I naively thought...

I'm not sure where you are with this at this point but I wanted to offer my .02 This, of course, will depend on your technical and comfort level with electrical systems. With that said, you can save some money on an inverter that doesn't have an ATS and just may your own with a simple SPDT relay. I'd recommend
a Functional devices RIB (Relay In a Box). Size the relay to the inverter. I.E. if you have a 2000 watt inverter, you'd want a 30 amp relay.

If this is something you or someone else is interested in pursuing, I'd be happy to explain the wiring in detail.

markdol1 · 02-08-2023, 08:23 PM

hey joe ,nice to have someone who knows rv electrical knowlege here .i am sure ill call on you in the near future.

Michmark · 03-18-2023, 02:57 PM

Hey Guys,

I picked up my 2022 Springdale 298BH today. I have a renogy 3000watt inverter (the big one with auto transfer and such) and 2 x 12v 240AH LifePO4 batteries. I want to hook up the inverter using the inverter prep in the front compartment. I have the proper gauge wiring according to Renogy (1/0).

My question is I have read that I can install the batteries in the front compartment also because they are Lithium batteries. It would be handy having everything all together in the compartment but my question is more do I have to run the cables to charge the batteries through the floor and out the front to the Giggy box (I think that is what they call it) as others above have mentioned? I would obviously like to keep wiring hidden as much as possible but is there any way to bypass the Giggy box on the front or do I have to run the new wires from the Giggy box to the inverter inside?
I could rewire the solar controller in the compartment to go straight to the batteries inside the compartment but I also have a portable 200watt renogy solar kit that I want to plug into the SAE port on the front of the trailer, which I was told goes straight to the batteries, does anybody else know if the wiring for that port goes in the Giggy box also?

I know I am probably overthinking everything, as I tend to do, but want to hook this all up the safest way so I am assuming that would be running the new 1/0 battery cables into the Giggy box from the batteries inside the compartment?

Sorry for the long post, wanted to give as much information as possible and thanks for any replies!

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