Laredo 291TG

Mudder 553 · 01-11-2022, 02:24 PM

Thank you for allowing me into you network of happy campers.
Just purchased my first camper, a 2014 keystone Laredo 291TG. it is desperate need of repair. After searching forums, i cannot figure out he correct length and weight of the strut for rear entertainment center. The previous owner trashed this camper and the current strut is not correct.

thanks

**sourdough** · 01-11-2022, 03:18 PM

Welcome to the forum! We have a lot of folks that are very knowledgeable in most every aspect of owning an RV so you should get some help.

As for the strut you might be more specific; not correct in what way....length, pounds of lift or ??

Also, go to the user CP tab in the upper left corner of the page, select edit signature and fill in info about your trailer and tow vehicle. It will reduce confusion, lots of needless questions and give you more accurate information.

wiredgeorge · 01-11-2022, 03:31 PM

Agree that a signature with camper and tow vehicle info would help give answers context in the future. Also, snap a pic of the "wrong strut" as I can't imagine why a strut would be used on a "rear entertainment center". Pictures are easy to post. Use the Go Advanced button, then Manage Files. Adding a picture of what you refer to in this thread will help it make sense.

**JRTJH** · 01-11-2022, 04:54 PM

If you're asking about the "rear TV in the bunkroom", I'm not sure that there was a door or a strut on that model trailer. Here are a few photos of the rear bunkhouse. As you enter the room, there was one "top bunk" on the left with the outdoor kitchen under it, two bunks on the right and a "wardrobe" on the rear wall. The TV sat on a shelf that was the top of the wardrobe. It was not enclosed, but simply sat on the shelf.

It's possible the "previous owner" not only trashed the trailer, but he modified the rear wardrobe to "make it an entertainment center" ?????

summerhummer · 01-11-2022, 10:56 PM

I am guessing the "Rear Entertainment center" could be an outside kitchen with the door held up by gas struts when it is open. I have a laredo 320 TG and I had to replace the same. I took the parts number of the strut and just ordered a pair online. If you dont have the original struts message me and I can give you the weight rating and length of mine. If after swapping pics we find that are identical. You should also look for a "backing plate Kit". These kits screw into the door to give the struts and mount something to bite into and hold the weight. I picked up a kit at camping world they are not model unique and they can be used any time support is needed.

Mudder 553 · 01-12-2022, 09:11 AM

Correct, it is the back outside kitchen. The one strut that is left, is a 12 inch, 80 pound strut. But if you’re over 5 foot eight you’ll hit your head on the door. I can’t believe that is the correct strut

**flybouy** · 01-12-2022, 09:28 AM

The struts may be weak but with brand new struts that door will not opem past 90°.

**JRTJH** · 01-12-2022, 09:47 AM

The door was designed to have a slope away from the trailer. What's shown in your photo is "very close to the way it left the factory". If the door had longer struts and opened with a slope toward the trailer, then every time it rained or you have a heavy morning dew, you'd flood the outdoor kitchen.

There's two complaints about that design, based on "owner height" as much as anything else... One complaint is, "I hit my head every time because the door is too low" the other is, "I can't reach the door to close it without a ladder because the door is too damn high"......

wiredgeorge · 01-12-2022, 10:23 AM

I was thrown off when the outside kitchen door was called a rear entertainment center. You likely have the correct strut.

**JRTJH** · 01-12-2022, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I was thrown off when the outside kitchen door was called a rear entertainment center. You likely have the correct strut.

Yep, me too. I've not heard the outdoor kitchen called an "entertainment center" before. The overhead door is designed to slope away from the trailer, so based on his photo, I'd suspect the door is working as designed and if there's an issue with the struts, it's that they are too strong or too weak, not that they don't open the correct length.

Mudder 553 · 01-12-2022, 11:12 AM

thanks for the fast responses and not crucifying a newbie. i will order up 2- 12", 80lbs struts. my wife says i am a terrible communicator...lol

wiredgeorge · 01-12-2022, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudder 553

thanks for the fast responses and not crucifying a newbie. i will order up 2- 12", 80lbs struts. my wife says i am a terrible communicator...lol

Communications skills are not really important as long as the missus is happy. Suggest you go to the UserCP at top/left of each page; click and find the signature button and put together a signature with year, make and model of your camper and same for tow vehicle. This will allow for more context in the answer to your questions which will likely be coming. And all of us are still learning; even guys like me who pretend to know it all. My wife has me figured out but hope no one else catches on....

**flybouy** · 01-12-2022, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudder 553

thanks for the fast responses and not crucifying a newbie. i will order up 2- 12", 80lbs struts. my wife says i am a terrible communicator...lol

I have a very similar camper. IIRC the outdoor kitchens are the same. I replaced my struts for the first time last spring. First thing is be cognizant that the door is HEAVY. Get something tohold up the door before you remove a strut. A 2x4 of wood or a pole or otherwise it'll be your sore head.

I'll also offer 2 suggestions. I put finger pull hooks under each of the two turn catches on the ends. That makes it much easier to pull the door away from the seal. I pull the one corner a little and then the opposite corner until the door just pulls away from the seal. This keeps the door from warping. The other thing is never reach up and pull the door down from one side. This too will flex and bend the door. I pull down using both hands evenly spaced on each side of center. I've done this since new and never had as much as a screw come loose on the brackets.

Hope this helps.

Mudder 553 · 01-12-2022, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

I have a very similar camper. IIRC the outdoor kitchens are the same. I replaced my struts for the first time last spring. First thing is be cognizant that the door is HEAVY. Get something tohold up the door before you remove a strut. A 2x4 of wood or a pole or otherwise it'll be your sore head.

I'll also offer 2 suggestions. I put finger pull hooks under each of the two turn catches on the ends. That makes it much easier to pull the door away from the seal. I pull the one corner a little and then the opposite corner until the door just pulls away from the seal. This keeps the door from warping. The other thing is never reach up and pull the door down from one side. This too will flex and bend the door. I pull down using both hands evenly spaced on each side of center. I've done this since new and never had as much as a screw come loose on the brackets.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the finger pull idea. Right now the door is a pain in the rump roast to open. Only 4 more months till the new rig gets hooked up for the maiden voyage. MN weather gets long!

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