Tow Calculator

[timbentzel]

Hi everyone, does anyone have a good tow calculator to determine the tow capacity of your vehicle? I may be looking for a new tow vehicle in the future and RV and I know there are a lot of factors and detailed calculations that have to be considered before making a final decision, but I was looking for something to get me in the ballpark to run some different scenarios before running the numbers on a specific tow vehicle and RV before purchasing either. Any recommendations would be appreciated...thanks!!

[chuckster57]

You can approach it one of two ways:

Find the RV you like, then armed with the weights you can find the appropriate tow vehicle or:

Decide what you want as a tow vehicle, and again armed with weight capacity’s find a trailer suited for the tow vehicle.

Until you have in your mind the size/length of the trailer you want, or the tow vehicle, there really isn’t any reason to talk about any “tables”.

[flybouy]

"Tow capacity" is a useless number when talking about towing a camper. Modern day drive trains are quite capable of towing anything that doesn’t exceed the PAYLOAD of the truck. Typically the truck's payload is the limiting factor.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by flybouy

"Tow capacity" is a useless number when talking about towing a camper. Modern day drive trains are quite capable of towing anything that doesn’t exceed the PAYLOAD of the truck. Typically the truck's payload is the limiting factor.

X2
Unfortunately the towing capacity is the first number many see when looking for a tow vehicle! Then when looking at a trailer they look at dry weights not GVWR!
Just saw the saddest post on another forum. The poster had a 15,000# 5er tow with 2021 F250 with a GVWR over 10,000# likely close to 11,000#. He was encouraged to get a F350 “One Ton”, well bought a 2022 F350 CC SB with a GVWR of 11,500# and only gained 350# of payload! Now with his new one ton he is still 250# over GVWR, and within 450# of his rear axle rating.
One really needs to look at the numbers!

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by timbentzel

Hi everyone, does anyone have a good tow calculator to determine the tow capacity of your vehicle? I may be looking for a new tow vehicle in the future and RV and I know there are a lot of factors and detailed calculations that have to be considered before making a final decision, but I was looking for something to get me in the ballpark to run some different scenarios before running the numbers on a specific tow vehicle and RV before purchasing either. Any recommendations would be appreciated...thanks!!

Lots of numbers to consider - max towing capacity and shipping weight of the RV are meaningless.

For a start take the yellow/white sticker inside the driver's door of the prospective truck and get the payload. Then find a prospective RV; take the shipping weight of the RV PLUS the carrying capacity and add them, that will give you the gvw of the trailer; some brands put that on there and others you have to add. Then take that gvw of the trailer and multiply it by .12(12%) for a bumper pull and .22 (22%) for a 5th wheel; that will give you an approximate tongue/pin weight for the RV. To that add 200lbs. for a hitch and 600 - 750 lbs. for "stuff" in the truck. Now you have the pin/tongue weight plus 200 for hitch and 6-750 for "stuff" (including people) in the truck. That will get you to a starting point. If a bumper pull the hitch will be less than the 5th wheel. On the other hand, it doesn't hurt at all, and is in fact preferable, to have a safety cushion in your weights.

[Essvar]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

X2
Unfortunately the towing capacity is the first number many see when looking for a tow vehicle! Then when looking at a trailer they look at dry weights not GVWR!
Just saw the saddest post on another forum. The poster had a 15,000# 5er tow with 2021 F250 with a GVWR over 10,000# likely close to 11,000#. He was encouraged to get a F350 “One Ton”, well bought a 2022 F350 CC SB with a GVWR of 11,500# and only gained 350# of payload! Now with his new one ton he is still 250# over GVWR, and within 450# of his rear axle rating.
One really needs to look at the numbers!

Have you weighed the front axle on a Dodge 6.7? It’s going to be within 500# of your front axle rating…

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Essvar

Have you weighed the front axle on a Dodge 6.7? It’s going to be within 500# of your front axle rating…

Yes, front axle weighs about 5,500# on a 6,000#rating. That said that weight doesn’t change much unless one puts a big bumper on.

The rear axle has far more opportunity to gain weight. The poster was already over GVWR and at only 450# left on the rear axle.

My point was that he recognized that the F250 wasn’t enough TV, so he went and traded the oversized F250 for a F350 with only a few (350#) pounds of payload.

I thought about getting a SRW Ram 3500 CC LB with a 12,300# GVWR, and about 4,200# payload. I ran the numbers and I would likely be right at the 4,200# payload. So we skipped the SRW and opted for the DRW.

[travelin texans]

DO NOT use weights from brochures (tow capacity tables) of the truck or rvs, most are based on a specific truck "as equipped" you probably wouldn't buy & dry weights of rvs which you will never tow anywhere near that weight. Absolutely DO NOT take advice about ANY weights from a truck or rv salesperson, 1st they don't know, 2nd they don't care, they want to sell you something whether it's appropriate or not. If either salesperson says "yea with that truck you can tow anything on the lot" or "that rv can easily be towed by your vehicle" run, don't walk away.
The pertinent numbers are posted on the trucks door jamb & on the manufacturers tag on the driver's side front corner of the rv or a tag in a cabinet somewhere.

[wiredgeorge]

Hopefully the OP will log back on and see some of this wisdom. He was last on at the very time he posted his query.

[chuckster57]

He logged in last night I believe. I looked at his profile page and he has a post stating he bought a 2021 Cougar

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=50079

So now I’m wondering if he’s getting out of it or just upgrading his TV.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

He logged in last night I believe. I looked at his profile page and he has a post stating he bought a 2021 Cougar

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=50079

So now I’m wondering if he’s getting out of it or just upgrading his TV.

Chuck... totally unrelated but I know you must work on campers of almost all vintages. What age range is your most frequently worked on? New, a couple years old, 10 years? Etc. Just being nosy since do-it-yourself vs shop doing the work has come up so much lately.

[Gumby52]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Lots of numbers to consider - max towing capacity and shipping weight of the RV are meaningless.

For a start take the yellow/white sticker inside the driver's door of the prospective truck and get the payload. Then find a prospective RV; take the shipping weight of the RV PLUS the carrying capacity and add them, that will give you the gvw of the trailer; some brands put that on there and others you have to add. Then take that gvw of the trailer and multiply it by .12(12%) for a bumper pull and .22 (22%) for a 5th wheel; that will give you an approximate tongue/pin weight for the RV. To that add 200lbs. for a hitch and 600 - 750 lbs. for "stuff" in the truck. Now you have the pin/tongue weight plus 200 for hitch and 6-750 for "stuff" (including people) in the truck. That will get you to a starting point. If a bumper pull the hitch will be less than the 5th wheel. On the other hand, it doesn't hurt at all, and is in fact preferable, to have a safety cushion in your weights.

"DO NOT use weights from brochures (tow capacity tables) of the truck or rvs, most are based on a specific truck "as equipped" you probably wouldn't buy & dry weights of rvs which you will never tow anywhere near that weight. Absolutely DO NOT take advice about ANY weights from a truck or rv salesperson, 1st they don't know, 2nd they don't care, they want to sell you something whether it's appropriate or not. If either salesperson says "yea with that truck you can tow anything on the lot" or "that rv can easily be towed by your vehicle" run, don't walk away.
The pertinent numbers are posted on the trucks door jamb & on the manufacturers tag on the driver's side front corner of the rv or a tag in a cabinet somewhere."

Actually, I think the two Danny's (Sourdough & Travelin Texans) have the exact table the OP was looking for - exactly in that order and as written. I couldn't figure out how to quote 2 replies, so I quoted the first and copied the second - don't mean to plagiarize...

This is why I hang out and lurk around here.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Chuck... totally unrelated but I know you must work on campers of almost all vintages. What age range is your most frequently worked on? New, a couple years old, 10 years? Etc. Just being nosy since do-it-yourself vs shop doing the work has come up so much lately.

It seems like I see a lot of older stuff lately. Right now I have a 2007 Monaco diplomat with slide motor issues. Last month I had an Alpha Gold See Ya 2000 I think. But we are replacing a rear wall on a 2015(?) Thor Ace and yesterday we started an axle swap on a 2018 crossroads.

A lot of the older rigs are owned by people my age and older who either can’t or just don’t want to work on them.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

It seems like I see a lot of older stuff lately. Right now I have a 2007 Monaco diplomat with slide motor issues. Last month I had an Alpha Gold See Ya 2000 I think. But we are replacing a rear wall on a 2015(?) Thor Ace and yesterday we started an axle swap on a 2018 crossroads.

A lot of the older rigs are owned by people my age and older who either can’t or just don’t want to work on them.

I don't like working on mine but there are few alternatives for shop repair near where I live and even though I am kinda on the geezer side, can't afford to do the upkeep I can do myself. I rebuild vintage motorcycle carburetors all day long and doing upkeep and repair just doesn't seem like fun but I do what needs doing. I will NOT work on my truck and am happy to pay a pro to do it as getting into the engine bay these days on the 1 ton is painful even with a Chewy box laid out over the engine.

[chuckster57]

Yeah, I still work on cars/trucks, have been for 40+ yrs. I’m way to cheap to pay someone to work on my stuff and I don’t trust them. I will admit it’s getting a little harder to do some jobs but the family tells me I’m more spry than people 1/2 my age.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Yeah, I still work on cars/trucks, have been for 40+ yrs. I’m way to cheap to pay someone to work on my stuff and I don’t trust them. I will admit it’s getting a little harder to do some jobs but the family tells me I’m more spry than people 1/2 my age.

If you are called "spry" by a family member, you are old. If you are old and fat, no one calls you spry. No one calls me spry. I worked on bikes until I stopped since my knees would get so sore it took the pleasure out of it. I used to build a bike every year out of parts and sell it. Still have to clean out my bike building shop and get of all the parts. Almost all Kawasaki stuff 73-80 ish.

[chuckster57]

I rode a ‘79 KZ 1000 MKII. That thing was a rocket ship. Thought about the Z1R but I didn’t want a turbo.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I rode a ‘79 KZ 1000 MKII. That thing was a rocket ship. Thought about the Z1R but I didn’t want a turbo.

Only a very few Z1Rs were turbo; most had the same engine as MKII. Most Z1Rs (1978) sat on the showroom floor as folks thought their unique style was ugly. I have owned both a 79 and 80 KZ1000E ST shaft drive as I prefer shaft drives and pretty much all the bikes from that era (mostly Kaw & Suzuki with a few Hondas and Yamahas). Compared to modern bikes, the term "rocket" is kinda funny. Bikes are so fast today there is no comparison but I am too old to care about fast. Here is my 79 shafty:

[rhagfo]

Well another thread sidetracked, this time by a senior member, and a site team member, it happens so easily.

Towing calculators if you do an internet search you will likely find some, some work well other not so well.

I think fitting an existing TV to a new trailer is much easier than fitting a new TV to existing trailer.

Worse yet is new TV to new trailer, due to the many unknowns.

One thing I read many times with those ordering new TV, especially new trucks, is that once the order is completed the dealer can't provide what the trucks payload will be.

Manufactures should be able to calculate what the effect of different options will be on total payload as the vehicle is ordered.

[wiredgeorge]

Sorry for the hijack... I'm a bad bad person. Enough tow calculation posts were made that if the OP wanted to take them to heart, I think he would be good.