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12-31-2020, 05:15 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Forsyth
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
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Thanks. I’ve found it now. Can I seal right over it, or do I have to pull
It off and clean it before resealing with more pro flex? Thanks for all of the help.
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12-31-2020, 05:45 AM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,351
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I usually try to peel off the old. It’s not easy, and yes whatever you do clean the surface before applying new. We used to use denatured alcohol but it’s banned out here. I use Fantastic and a clean rag, have to wait for it to dry.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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12-31-2020, 10:22 AM
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#23
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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If it were me, I'd try to keep the installation "as clean as possible". You can apply ProFlex over the DICOR white, but if/when you need to get access next time, it's going to be "more goop to deal with"... For me, NOW is the best time to do it right, not cover up things with a better layer...
So, I'd remove the light (one more time), clean off the "old layer of sealant from yesterday" wipe down the area to remove all the white sealant and then reinstall the light and seal it with ProFlex...
Looking at your photo, if I have my orientation correct, it looks like the light fixture was sealed along the bottom and the sides with the top not adequately sealed ???? If that is actually the way it was sealed at the factory, then the way it was sealed "MAY" (not is) a part of the problem with leakage... The "general rule" for applying sealant to components on a vertical surface is to seal from "near the center bottom" with a continuous bead of sealant around the side, over the top, around the other side and then to the bottom, leaving about a 1" space for any water that may accumulate a path to leak away from the fixture...
So, if what I think is the way that light was sealed, they left the top with "minimal sealant" and applied a heavy bead around the sides and bottom ????? If so, they did it "upside down".... What you want to end up with is a good bead of sealant around the entire fixture, leaving about 1" on the bottom with no sealant so water can escape if there ever is a leak.....
You also want a layer of butyl putty tape under the light, so the screws that hold it in place can not "weep water" into the trailer.
If you don't have it, butyl putty tape is available at any camper supply store. There are two types of putty tape, one is clay based and dries out/cracks in a year or so. Skip that kind.... You want butyl putty tape. It's a "rubbery, long lasting tape that seals much, MUCH better..... Just apply the putty tape to the entire underside of the light, put it in place, secure the screws and then wipe down the margins and apply your ProFlex. I know, sounds complex, but really it isn't.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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01-03-2021, 11:46 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AF15FlyGuy
Thanks for the reply. My trailer has an aluminum frame, so I think that the framing shouldn't be damaged... I could be wrong about the frame... so I'm thinking that probably most of the damage would be in the wall paneling/insulation itself? It also seems to only be on one side of the trailer. I'm going to hop up there tomorrow as we got back tonight after dark and see what's what on the roof. I fear we might have bought one that was aready leaking and were the lucky recipients of a few months of leakage.
Anybody out there with any recommendations for repair shops in middle GA (Macon/WR/ATL) area?
Seems like I remember there are some repair shops
on the road going by the
Thanks.
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Seems like there are some repair places in Macon Byron area around Camping World and Campers Inn, same exit from I-75
I know Camping World has big lot so you can easily pull in, park and have them come out for a quick assessment.
As everyone is covered up with work these days, I’d suggest making an appointment to be sure they are working and know to plan for a drive in assessment.
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01-03-2021, 02:07 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Spring Hill
Posts: 20
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Here is what happens if you don’t catch it in time. Not good, especially going down the highway. What ever you do, make sure you have the roof inspected at least once a year and keep them sealed.
__________________
Brian
2015 GMC 2500HD 6.0
2017 Keystone Cougar 29RLI
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01-03-2021, 02:43 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Midwest
Posts: 238
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Thanks I have ordered the sealant from Amazon.
There is insurance coverage that
will repair or replace a vehicle roof with issues caused by damage or wear and tear. This also includes protection for other parts of the vehicle damaged by the roof’s malfunction.
__________________
2019 Cougar 361RLW
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03-26-2021, 09:26 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Forsyth
Posts: 9
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Self thread revival. After we stopped living in the trailer, we got it looked at. A little bit of delamination in the closet by the bed, but after I did an emergency reseal of the offending light, everything dried out. I had a local RV repairman take a look and he said it's dry on the inside now. I then had a roof treatment of GACO applied to the entire roof, and every light pulled, checked and resealed. Looks like everything is good to go now. Thanks to everyone for your help. For a first timer, it was great learning and now I know what to do/look for in the future.
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