Airbags

[Brantlyj]

What are some of the deciding factors for when to add airbags?

Set-up in my sig. I didn’t measure when I brought it home but it sagged a few inches.
It pulled fantastic the 15 miles it took me to get home. Take into account sim traveling to Alaska next summer

Looking at the Airlift 7500 kit with their onboard compressor. Some are saying the water proofing of the unit is not great. Any real life feedback?

[rhagfo]

Why would need air bags with an F350 and maybe a 3,000# pin?

[chuckster57]

I have Airlift 5000 with onboard air. My pin isnt near yours but I found when I bought my trailer that rough roads would make the truck "bounce" off the overloads. The airbags eliminated 99% of that.

[sourdough]

Brant are you concerned about the trip and rough roads, the sag or both? A couple inch drop with a loaded trailer isn't going to hurt you. How is the trailer riding? Is it level or nose up? I would be more worried about that going to AK than the sag. If the nose is already up when connected raising it even more with the bags could present some problems on bad roads.

IMO the 7500 is overkill for the load you have if you want to go with them. I would go with the 5000 at the most. You've got 6k axles (3k springs on each side) on the trailer so they should be OK but if you get the nose high then hit those really rough stretches of road it might put some unwanted stress on one or more of them. Looks like all the heavy items other than the theatre seating is on the curb side.

Others will chime in I'm sure just wanted to throw that out there.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I have Airlift 5000 with onboard air. My pin isnt near yours but I found when I bought my trailer that rough roads would make the truck "bounce" off the overloads. The airbags eliminated 99% of that.

What are you using for onboard air?

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Brant are you concerned about the trip and rough roads, the sag or both? A couple inch drop with a loaded trailer isn't going to hurt you. How is the trailer riding? Is it level or nose up? I would be more worried about that going to AK than the sag. If the nose is already up when connected raising it even more with the bags could present some problems on bad roads.

IMO the 7500 is overkill for the load you have if you want to go with them. I would go with the 5000 at the most. You've got 6k axles (3k springs on each side) on the trailer so they should be OK but if you get the nose high then hit those really rough stretches of road it might put some unwanted stress on one or more of them. Looks like all the heavy items other than the theatre seating is on the curb side.

Others will chime in I'm sure just wanted to throw that out there.

well, since all I've done is tow it home from the dealer Im just looking at my options at the moment. Sag is a small factor as I don't want to blind people and I was to be able to actually light up the road and not the sky.

But Alaska is my main concern. I'll be pretty heavy in both the truck and the trailer as I need to pack for a month+ as well as all the other stuff I would want. I did post about packing and I was basically told to quit worrying and I was overthinking things.

It currently sits just a bit nose high. Not much though. I probably need to get it hooked up and take measurements. When I took it home I asked if I should drop the common flange a notch or to as it was currently on the top holes and the service guy said to leave it.
As for the springs, I am considering installing the next heavier spring pack in anticipation for rough roads.

I choose the 7500 because that's what Airlift recommended.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

What are you using for onboard air?

My kit came with a compressor, and two gauges. I mounted the compressor on a plate I fabricated and mounted it to the frame. On our 2009 cross country trip I was in some heavy rain storms and had zero issues.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

well, since all I've done is tow it home from the dealer Im just looking at my options at the moment. Sag is a small factor as I don't want to blind people and I was to be able to actually light up the road and not the sky.

But Alaska is my main concern. I'll be pretty heavy in both the truck and the trailer as I need to pack for a month+ as well as all the other stuff I would want. I did post about packing and I was basically told to quit worrying and I was overthinking things.

It currently sits just a bit nose high. Not much though. I probably need to get it hooked up and take measurements. When I took it home I asked if I should drop the common flange a notch or to as it was currently on the top holes and the service guy said to leave it.
As for the springs, I am considering installing the next heavier spring pack in anticipation for rough roads.

I choose the 7500 because that's what Airlift recommended.

Alaska, I would not use air bags. You are already a bit nose high, so for now skip the bags. I would put shocks on both the trailer and Bilstein shocks on the truck.

[JRTJH]

Ford SuperDuty trucks are "notorious" for soft ride. Ford accomplishes this by using "extra long springs, adding a 2" or 3" (model dependent) lift to the rear axle. Then, when the truck is loaded to the overload spring stops, it sits level...

Many owners "think" their truck is "sagging" but in most situations, the truck settles on the overload springs and actually "sits level"...

If you get your truck in a level parking lot, you'll see that it sits "tail high" by the amount of those lift blocks. Measure your fender wells and record the measurement... Then, hitch your trailer, you'll see that from a distance, it "may look tail low", but if you crawl under the truck, you'll see that it is "barely deflecting the overload springs. Now, re-measure the front and rear fender well and compare to your first measurements. If your truck is like mine, the front measurement will be essentially the same (maybe half an inch difference) and the rear fender well will have "lowered to where both the front and rear are "almost the same" ... In other words, the truck is sitting level with the weight of the trailer causing the overload springs to contact the spring bumpers.

Try it and see if your truck sits like mine. I'm guessing it does and the cause is those "long, soft springs" designed to provide a soft ride when not loaded and sit on the overload springs and will be essentially level when you load it up....

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

well, since all I've done is tow it home from the dealer Im just looking at my options at the moment. Sag is a small factor as I don't want to blind people and I was to be able to actually light up the road and not the sky.

But Alaska is my main concern. I'll be pretty heavy in both the truck and the trailer as I need to pack for a month+ as well as all the other stuff I would want. I did post about packing and I was basically told to quit worrying and I was overthinking things.

It currently sits just a bit nose high. Not much though. I probably need to get it hooked up and take measurements. When I took it home I asked if I should drop the common flange a notch or to as it was currently on the top holes and the service guy said to leave it.
As for the springs, I am considering installing the next heavier spring pack in anticipation for rough roads.

I choose the 7500 because that's what Airlift recommended.

You only have 1440lbs. of payload on that trailer....not much for a 40' trailer. It will be easy, extremely easy, to overload it trying to pack for a long trip. From experience I can tell you you won't need as much as you think you will....unless it's food and outdoor cookers. As far as "not worrying about it" on weights I would differ. You REALLY want your weights to be right and not overloaded if trekking across Alaska. Your axles and springs are marginal (IMO) anyway and to put them at max, even on a smooth straigh road, is not a good idea. Going up to the next level of spring pack (3500lbs) does you no good. You have 6k axles. All you do is transfer the weak point from the springs to the axles - I would rather a spring break than an axle. Your trailer design is going to overload the curb side I'm afraid so keep that in mind.

What kind of clearance do you have between the bottom front of the 5th wheel and your bedrails? I like at least 6" front to back, others will have their thoughts. You may be able to drop your hitch to get the trailer level but you would have to see how that plays with the other clearances.

Load your stuff early on, everything. Make that trip to the scales so you can start getting things tuned in and shed weight if you need to. Watch that curb side. The place to leave out things is at home before you go and not on the side of the road.

[rhagfo]

Well as Danny (Sourdough) pointed you have a very small payload (1,440#) for a 40' 5th wheel.

I would strongly, heading to the scales before you put anything besides two full propane tanks and necessary batteries. You only appear to have a 13,820# GVWR on that 5th wheel. You might check the Payload/VIN sticker on the trailer as the 13,820# number is the sum of the base weight and payload weight. That way you could also get a true dry pin weight.
The real concern is that any weight above the 12,380# shipping weight will reduce the 1,440# carrying capacity.
We full time which is like packing for a long trip, in a 32' 5th wheel, and we exceed our 2,106# carrying Capacity which included 45 gallons of fresh water, and 60# of propane.
The dry pin of 1,820# likely will not exceed 2,800# which is what our pin on our 32' 5er is, which we carried on your old 2001 Ram 2500 without air bags.
Good luck on your trip.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Why would need air bags with an F350 and maybe a 3,000# pin?

Gross weight is right at 14K lbs so pin is 3200 plus lbs plus hitch & passengers and stuff in the truck so he is likely over 4000 lbs pin weight. Depending on the payload of his F350, he may be over? Payloads can vary a lot depending on the trim level of the truck and what is in it when he hauls. That is a 40' fifth wheel btw...

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Gross weight is right at 14K lbs so pin is 3200 plus lbs plus hitch & passengers and stuff in the truck so he is likely over 4000 lbs pin weight. Depending on the payload of his F350, he may be over? Payloads can vary a lot depending on the trim level of the truck and what is in it when he hauls. That is a 40' fifth wheel btw...

Well starts with a 12,380# dry weight, with a 1,820# dry pin, payload is only 1,440#, and he is going to add 1,380# of that on the pin, I don't think so.
That GAS F350 should have a payload well in excess of 4,000#.

[Brantlyj]

For this mentioning the low cargo capacity of the camper, it actually has a dry weight of 11,560 lbs. Giving me roughly 2200 lbs of capacity. I don't know why the website lists it differently, but that is directly off the sticker on the camper.

Also my truck has a 4300 lb cargo capacity as well.

Our trip is next June so about this time next year I'll load it up and bring it to the scales.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

For this mentioning the low cargo capacity of the camper, it actually has a dry weight of 11,560 lbs. Giving me roughly 2200 lbs of capacity. I don't know why the website lists it differently, but that is directly off the sticker on the camper.

Also my truck has a 4300 lb cargo capacity as well.

Our trip is next June so about this time next year I'll load it up and bring it to the scales.

Those weights sound more realistic - and that's good. Bad thing is if it has an almost 14k gvwr and you have 6k axles that will make for another issue to ponder (the sticker with you gvwr will have the axle info).

Mine has a gvwr a little higher than yours and came with the 6k axles. I could not accept those carrying that much weight across the likes of LA, I can't imagine doing AK and not expect something to break. I had Performance Trailer Braking replace the suspension and axles with Dexter 7k axles and 3500lb. spring packs after the first year which has given me much more peace of mind - something to think about.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Those weights sound more realistic - and that's good. Bad thing is if it has an almost 14k gvwr and you have 6k axles that will make for another issue to ponder (the sticker with you gvwr will have the axle info).

Mine has a gvwr a little higher than yours and came with the 6k axles. I could not accept those carrying that much weight across the likes of LA, I can't imagine doing AK and not expect something to break. I had Performance Trailer Braking replace the suspension and axles with Dexter 7k axles and 3500lb. spring packs after the first year which has given me much more peace of mind - something to think about.

that is a consideration. what did that cost you? I have read reports of people snapping all 4 springs on brand new trailers over the course of their trip. which is why I was considering upgrading the springs and taking the originals as back-up

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

For this mentioning the low cargo capacity of the camper, it actually has a dry weight of 11,560 lbs. Giving me roughly 2200 lbs of capacity. I don't know why the website lists it differently, but that is directly off the sticker on the camper.

Also my truck has a 4300 lb cargo capacity as well.

Our trip is next June so about this time next year I'll load it up and bring it to the scales.

Still might not be a bad thought to take it to the scales to get some baseline weights. Yes, 2,200# is better than 1,420#, but still what I consider low for a 40’ 5th wheel. As stated before our 32’ 5er has a 2,106# payload including 45 gallons of of fresh water (374#) and 60# of propane, so from dry, a payload of 2,540#.

I agree with Danny, might be a good thought to upgrade axles and springs.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

that is a consideration. what did that cost you? I have read reports of people snapping all 4 springs on brand new trailers over the course of their trip. which is why I was considering upgrading the springs and taking the originals as back-up

Here's a link to Performance Trailer Braking;

https://performancetrailerbraking.com/about

The top banner has the different product lines they do. They come to you to install and the installation is on top of the pricing. The cover much of the country but don't know all the specifics. I do know I talked to one of the owners at one time up around your area IIRC. My bill with installation was about 7200 but I had disc brakes, xfactors, SRE400 MorRyde equalizers etc. installed. If you are wanting to make an axle upgrade I would heartily recommend the brake upgrade as well - no comparison to drums.