First tow

waltheraustin · 03-16-2018, 04:40 PM

Truck did really well power wise. Still need to dial in the eq 4 pt.

Transmission sounded pretty bad or at least that what it sounded like. Hear some clicking and what sounded like metal on metal. Hope it was the hitch cause it sounded pretty bad. Truck has a lot of people though.Going to the dealership on Monday. Didn't act strange though.

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**JRTJH** · 03-16-2018, 05:49 PM

The towing may improve once the computer relearns its settings.

A couple of cautions for you: Be very careful backing over "curb bumpstops" like you did. That is a fantastic way to rip the stabilizer jacks and/or the sewer connetions off your trailer.

**flybouy** · 03-16-2018, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The towing may improve once the computer relearns its settings.

A couple of cautions for you: Be very careful backing over "curb bumpstops" like you did. That is a fantastic way to rip the stabilizer jacks and/or the sewer connetions off your trailer.

Good catch on the bumpstop. From the photo it looks like you have an xchock in between the tires. If it is, it should be installed vertically with the handle at the top or bottom.

notanlines · 03-17-2018, 02:35 AM

Walther, keep in mind that WD hitches make ALL kinds of noise, especially when backing the rig.
And kudos to John and Flybouy for having those keen eyes.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

Walther, keep in mind that WD hitches make ALL kinds of noise, especially when backing the rig.
And kudos to John and Flybouy for having those keen eyes.

Truck did great power wise! Better than what I imagined! Absolutely kills my old truck. Just hope the tranny is okay. Hitch will by fixed up soon.

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waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

Good catch on the bumpstop. From the photo it looks like you have an xchock in between the tires. If it is, it should be installed vertically with the handle at the top or bottom.

Thanks guys! I've got to get a tire iron or something to get to it from sideways so I improvised. I got out and checked it real food before backing in. Thanks guys!

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jsmith948 · 03-17-2018, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waltheraustin

Thanks guys! I've got to get a tire iron or something to get to it from sideways so I improvised. I got out and checked it real food before backing in. Thanks guys!

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Place the X-Chock vertically between the tires with the hex drive nut on the bottom (upside down from what the sales brochure shows). Then you can place your 3/4" ratcheting box wrench on the drive nut to tighten.
A word of warning - it is possible - difficult but possible - to drive off with the X-chocks in place. This will bend the X-Chock and could puncture a tire. We didn't puncture a tire - but it took a couple of hours back home in the shop to get the chock straightened out so it would work.

**chuckster57** · 03-17-2018, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsmith948

Place the X-Chock vertically between the tires with the hex drive nut on the bottom (upside down from what the sales brochure shows). Then you can place your 3/4" ratcheting box wrench on the drive nut to tighten.

A word of warning - it is possible - difficult but possible - to drive off with the X-chocks in place. This will bend the X-Chock and could puncture a tire. We didn't puncture a tire - but it took a couple of hours back home in the shop to get the chock straightened out so it would work.

Any reason why upside down? I’ve been using them with the drive nut topside so I don’t have to bend over so far. I did bend one when I was moving it in the back yard. Don’t usually use them in the back yard, level concrete pad.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 06:54 AM

I have my impact drill and bit for the leveling bars. Same bit fits the chocks.

Thanks for the advice all! I appreciate all the comments. It's been awhile since we last camped so getting the cobwebs out

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waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 09:01 AM

Thinking about a trailer like this!

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Ken / Claudia · 03-17-2018, 09:16 AM

Walther, you mentioned the tranny or hitch making noise. You know the tranny is right under where you sit and the hitch is behind the truck. If you cannot tell where the noise is coming from, have someone outside the rig as you turn in the camp ground or where ever, they will tell you right away if it's the hitch which I think it likely is. I have the 7.3 engine and can hear the hitch over the engine sound. Another idea is drive with a window open to locate the sound.
Looks like you picked some nice weather to go camping, it's all rain here.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Walther, you mentioned the tranny or hitch making noise. You know the tranny is right under where you sit and the hitch is behind the truck. If you cannot tell where the noise is coming from, have someone outside the rig as you turn in the camp ground or where ever, they will tell you right away if it's the hitch which I think it likely is. I have the 7.3 engine and can hear the hitch over the engine sound. Another idea is drive with a window open to locate the sound.
Looks like you picked some nice weather to go camping, it's all rain here.

It started to sprinkle. Looking at the radar, we were in the edge of some red stuff so glad we missed it.

Beautiful weather! Perfect

I'll let Ford take a look. I think there is a tranny update for the 10 speed. I'm also not used to turbos so not sure if that might be it. Wastegate sound

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NorskeBob · 03-17-2018, 04:06 PM

My previous TV was a 2005 Silverado 3500HD. I noted an improvement in towing when I changed the exhaust to a CAT back Silverline SS exhaust. Tow Haul mode worked well for grade braking. Added a deep pan to the tranny and changed to TranSynd ATF.

Ken / Claudia · 03-17-2018, 11:16 PM

Walther, I am not mad just confused. Your 1st post you think the tranny or the hitch may have caused metal on metal sound, several on here me included suggest the hitch because they make that sound. Your taking it to the dealer without even finding out if the hitch system is the cause. If your tranny is really making metal on metal sounds it has a big problem. I hope not because you might not make it back to the dealer. Again I am not mad, let us know how the problem is fixed that way we help each other.

waltheraustin · 03-18-2018, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Walther, I am not mad just confused. Your 1st post you think the tranny or the hitch may have caused metal on metal sound, several on here me included suggest the hitch because they make that sound. Your taking it to the dealer without even finding out if the hitch system is the cause. If your tranny is really making metal on metal sounds it has a big problem. I hope not because you might not make it back to the dealer. Again I am not mad, let us know how the problem is fixed that way we help each other.

I didn't think anyone was mad or upset. My apologies if I missed something. quite a few beers this weekend.

It may be normal wastegate noises. I used the eq 4pt last year so I'm definitely aware of the creaking and popping. Truck runs great, just extra noises I'm not used too. It runs better than great actually. This is a torqued up little engine that pulls great! It's really amazing.

Hooked up my forscan to it to check for codes and nada. Still can't get over how much better this if from my Silverado although it was a 2012 so I'm sure the new ones are so much better

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ctbruce · 03-18-2018, 04:59 AM

This may not be your WDH, but it illustrates some of the noises that are common with them. Is this like what you're hearing?

https://youtu.be/WmJB1zyN8H8

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markjamestx · 08-27-2020, 08:08 AM

This is the only post that I found that was somewhat related to my question. I am not convinced that any of the 2-inch hitch silencers that I have found so far online will work. I have an 1000 lb e2 trunion hitch pulling a fully loaded 7800 lb camper. Great hitch, no sway and professionally adjusted where Truck and trailer sits level, with only 10 PSI in air bags. Same thing for a 2500 Dodge Ram and a Toyota Tundra Platinum. I keep the hitch adjustment maintained before each pull. What is your experience or recommendations?

**JRTJH** · 08-28-2020, 06:52 AM

Hitch "anti-rattle devices" are typically designed to prevent rattles and receiver noise "WHEN THERE IS NO TRAILER ATTACHED" or to prevent "excessive bouncing" when a bike rack/cargo tray is attached to the receiver....

There is no way a 3/8" u bolt is going to prevent movement of a 1000 pound load during a twisting load or during a vertical/horizontal force caused by a significant change in receiver/hitch load.....

If your "stinger with ball" is inserted in the receiver, an "anti-rattle device" will help prevent the "clunking and rattling" as you drive. Once you hitch up an equalizer/weight distribution/anti-sway hitch to that receiver, the forces the receiver is subjected to are far above what that little u bolt can prevent....

Additionally, much of the "hitch noise" is caused by chain movement on the other end of the WD bars or by creaking at the ends of the bars that are inserted in the hitch head, not by the "2x2 inch bar that's inserted into the receiver".....

markjamestx · 08-28-2020, 06:56 AM

My thoughts exactly, but wanted to get some other comments.

**sourdough** · 08-28-2020, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markjamestx

This is the only post that I found that was somewhat related to my question. I am not convinced that any of the 2-inch hitch silencers that I have found so far online will work. I have an 1000 lb e2 trunion hitch pulling a fully loaded 7800 lb camper. Great hitch, no sway and professionally adjusted where Truck and trailer sits level, with only 10 PSI in air bags. Same thing for a 2500 Dodge Ram and a Toyota Tundra Platinum. I keep the hitch adjustment maintained before each pull. What is your experience or recommendations?

Hitch silencers can and will work depending on where your noise is coming from and why. Here is a link to one I bought;

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-2...%2C211&sr=8-13

My issue was primarily the play between a 2 1/2" receiver, an insert to reduce to 2" and the 2" shank from the EQ hitch. The slop created by those components was stopped by the use of the above clamp - it was a 10k gvw trailer about 1100 on the tongue. If you just have the 2" receiver and a 2" hitch shank there shouldn't be as much play/noise. There was enough in mine to bang when it went up and down or side to side.

I have since sold the bumper pull and no longer use it for the trailer. I did have a custom shank made to mount my mud flaps on that still fits in that 2" reducer so I use it on that now. Without out it those flaps flip and flop every which way. Crank the clamp down and it won't budge.....and still won't after 7k miles as I did last trip. The trick on that particular hitch is to crank down on that securing bolt. I use about a 28" 1/2" drive ratchet bar and pull it down to where you think it's going to break (should put a torque wrench on it one day) then tighten down the lock nut tight - but not as tight as the bolt. Prior to doing that it WOULD loosen up and wiggle if I just cranked it down with a regular 3/8" ratchet.

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