First tow

waltheraustin · 03-16-2018, 04:40 PM

Truck did really well power wise. Still need to dial in the eq 4 pt.

Transmission sounded pretty bad or at least that what it sounded like. Hear some clicking and what sounded like metal on metal. Hope it was the hitch cause it sounded pretty bad. Truck has a lot of people though.Going to the dealership on Monday. Didn't act strange though.

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**JRTJH** · 03-16-2018, 05:49 PM

The towing may improve once the computer relearns its settings.

A couple of cautions for you: Be very careful backing over "curb bumpstops" like you did. That is a fantastic way to rip the stabilizer jacks and/or the sewer connetions off your trailer.

**flybouy** · 03-16-2018, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The towing may improve once the computer relearns its settings.

A couple of cautions for you: Be very careful backing over "curb bumpstops" like you did. That is a fantastic way to rip the stabilizer jacks and/or the sewer connetions off your trailer.

Good catch on the bumpstop. From the photo it looks like you have an xchock in between the tires. If it is, it should be installed vertically with the handle at the top or bottom.

notanlines · 03-17-2018, 02:35 AM

Walther, keep in mind that WD hitches make ALL kinds of noise, especially when backing the rig.
And kudos to John and Flybouy for having those keen eyes.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

Good catch on the bumpstop. From the photo it looks like you have an xchock in between the tires. If it is, it should be installed vertically with the handle at the top or bottom.

Thanks guys! I've got to get a tire iron or something to get to it from sideways so I improvised. I got out and checked it real food before backing in. Thanks guys!

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waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

Walther, keep in mind that WD hitches make ALL kinds of noise, especially when backing the rig.
And kudos to John and Flybouy for having those keen eyes.

Truck did great power wise! Better than what I imagined! Absolutely kills my old truck. Just hope the tranny is okay. Hitch will by fixed up soon.

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jsmith948 · 03-17-2018, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waltheraustin

Thanks guys! I've got to get a tire iron or something to get to it from sideways so I improvised. I got out and checked it real food before backing in. Thanks guys!

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Place the X-Chock vertically between the tires with the hex drive nut on the bottom (upside down from what the sales brochure shows). Then you can place your 3/4" ratcheting box wrench on the drive nut to tighten.
A word of warning - it is possible - difficult but possible - to drive off with the X-chocks in place. This will bend the X-Chock and could puncture a tire. We didn't puncture a tire - but it took a couple of hours back home in the shop to get the chock straightened out so it would work.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 06:54 AM

I have my impact drill and bit for the leveling bars. Same bit fits the chocks.

Thanks for the advice all! I appreciate all the comments. It's been awhile since we last camped so getting the cobwebs out

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**chuckster57** · 03-17-2018, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsmith948

Place the X-Chock vertically between the tires with the hex drive nut on the bottom (upside down from what the sales brochure shows). Then you can place your 3/4" ratcheting box wrench on the drive nut to tighten.

A word of warning - it is possible - difficult but possible - to drive off with the X-chocks in place. This will bend the X-Chock and could puncture a tire. We didn't puncture a tire - but it took a couple of hours back home in the shop to get the chock straightened out so it would work.

Any reason why upside down? I’ve been using them with the drive nut topside so I don’t have to bend over so far. I did bend one when I was moving it in the back yard. Don’t usually use them in the back yard, level concrete pad.

**JRTJH** · 03-17-2018, 07:37 AM

If you have fender skirts like the first picture, it's not an issue whether the adjuster is on top or bottom, but if you've got fender skirts that extend down between the tires much further than the second picture, having the adjuster on top makes it difficult to tighten/remove the X-chocks. Placing the adjuster on the bottom just makes for a less obstructed access to the adjuster.

**sourdough** · 03-17-2018, 07:54 AM

Yes, on our x chocks I place the nut on the bottom due to the fender extending down between the tires.

OP, if your Equalizer is making noise lube it like the instructions call for. I also put grease on the ball and I've installed the plastic covers over the L brackets - makes a world of difference and I haven't noticed any loss of effectiveness.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

Yes, on our x chocks I place the nut on the bottom due to the fender extending down between the tires.

OP, if your Equalizer is making noise lube it like the instructions call for. I also put grease on the ball and I've installed the plastic covers over the L brackets - makes a world of difference and I haven't noticed any loss of effectiveness.

I've got the plastic towing silencers and took some Mobil 1 grease to the points in the directions. Hoping it is something in the hitch that was making that noise but truck is going in for the starting rattle that seems to plague the 2017 10 speed tranny's.

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waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If you have fender skirts like the first picture, it's not an issue whether the adjuster is on top or bottom, but if you've got fender skirts that extend down between the tires much further than the second picture, having the adjuster on top makes it difficult to tighten/remove the X-chocks. Placing the adjuster on the bottom just makes for a less obstructed access to the adjuster.

Ok, I'll play with em. Thanks y'all!! Really appreciate the help for the newb. I've got one season under my belt but still learning

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**flybouy** · 03-17-2018, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

Yes, on our x chocks I place the nut on the bottom due to the fender extending down between the tires.

OP, if your Equalizer is making noise lube it like the instructions call for. I also put grease on the ball and I've installed the plastic covers over the L brackets - makes a world of difference and I haven't noticed any loss of effectiveness.

x2 on the fender skirt interference. Also with trailer unhitched take hold of the hitch head (ball mount) and see if there is excessive play. On mt Reese straight line hitch there was a lot of play where the hitch head bolts to the drawbar. Ordered shims for it and that removed a lot of the movement. There are several products on the market for tightening up the drawbar in the hitch. With that said, the equalizer bars can still make a racket backing and in tight turns.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 09:01 AM

Thinking about a trailer like this!

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Ken / Claudia · 03-17-2018, 09:16 AM

Walther, you mentioned the tranny or hitch making noise. You know the tranny is right under where you sit and the hitch is behind the truck. If you cannot tell where the noise is coming from, have someone outside the rig as you turn in the camp ground or where ever, they will tell you right away if it's the hitch which I think it likely is. I have the 7.3 engine and can hear the hitch over the engine sound. Another idea is drive with a window open to locate the sound.
Looks like you picked some nice weather to go camping, it's all rain here.

jsmith948 · 03-17-2018, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Any reason why upside down? I’ve been using them with the drive nut topside so I don’t have to bend over so far. I did bend one when I was moving it in the back yard. Don’t usually use them in the back yard, level concrete pad.

As already posted, I put the X-Chocks with the adjuster on the bottom because of the length of the fender skirts. Don't think the X-Chocks will add any stability with the auto level - saving them to give to my youngest son when he gets his RV.

waltheraustin · 03-17-2018, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Walther, you mentioned the tranny or hitch making noise. You know the tranny is right under where you sit and the hitch is behind the truck. If you cannot tell where the noise is coming from, have someone outside the rig as you turn in the camp ground or where ever, they will tell you right away if it's the hitch which I think it likely is. I have the 7.3 engine and can hear the hitch over the engine sound. Another idea is drive with a window open to locate the sound.
Looks like you picked some nice weather to go camping, it's all rain here.

It started to sprinkle. Looking at the radar, we were in the edge of some red stuff so glad we missed it.

Beautiful weather! Perfect

I'll let Ford take a look. I think there is a tranny update for the 10 speed. I'm also not used to turbos so not sure if that might be it. Wastegate sound

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NorskeBob · 03-17-2018, 04:06 PM

My previous TV was a 2005 Silverado 3500HD. I noted an improvement in towing when I changed the exhaust to a CAT back Silverline SS exhaust. Tow Haul mode worked well for grade braking. Added a deep pan to the tranny and changed to TranSynd ATF.

Ken / Claudia · 03-17-2018, 11:16 PM

Walther, I am not mad just confused. Your 1st post you think the tranny or the hitch may have caused metal on metal sound, several on here me included suggest the hitch because they make that sound. Your taking it to the dealer without even finding out if the hitch system is the cause. If your tranny is really making metal on metal sounds it has a big problem. I hope not because you might not make it back to the dealer. Again I am not mad, let us know how the problem is fixed that way we help each other.

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