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Old 03-28-2019, 11:56 AM   #1
Texasgeoman1
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Auto Leveing on Passport

I was thinking about installing an automatic leveling system on my 2015 Passport 2890RL. Any suggestions as to which ones work the best?
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:01 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Welcome to the forum.

You have a couple of choices, but none will be cheap. Doing it yourself can save the labor cost but your looking at $2K-$3K for the parts.

Both BAL and Lippert makes systems for travel trailers, my preference is Lippert.
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:50 PM   #3
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Is the Passport frame stiff enough for a level kit?

Our Passport has a formed relatively thin sheet metal frame in the shape of a Z, not an I beam. May not be the same in your Passport.
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Old 04-02-2019, 02:20 PM   #4
Controller23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow View Post
Is the Passport frame stiff enough for a level kit?

Our Passport has a formed relatively thin sheet metal frame in the shape of a Z, not an I beam. May not be the same in your Passport.


My new Passport is Z and well and manual says don’t use the stabilizers for leveling.
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:09 PM   #5
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I don't know if you can install a leveling system on that trailer, but that owner's manual blurb just means you shouldn't use the stabilizer jacks for leveling - which is true of all stabilizer jacks on all trailers (as far as I know).
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Old 04-02-2019, 04:20 PM   #6
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Do the new Passports come with the auto leveling system? The frame might not be hefty enough for it. I have the Ground Control 3.0 on my Laredo TT and it will lift the whole trailer off the ground though its not recommended obviously. I like my auto level system. It works great though not infallible. They can be finicky in some circumstances.
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Old 04-02-2019, 06:01 PM   #7
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A little browsing on the internet will probably convince you that adding a leveling system to a NORCO (BAL) Z-frame is not a good idea. Here is just one post from another forum detailing a conversation with the customer service team at BAL. While I can't attest to the validity of this specific post, I can say that the couple of "ultra-lite Passports" that I've seen do not have a conventional frame under them. Instead, it's a lightweight "stamped and rolled steel" frame that's fitted together and "locked in place to attain rigidity".

To me, it's sort of like comparing a "truck frame with rails and cross members" to a Light weight "uni-body frame" on a mid-size SUV. Take a ball peen hammer to the SUV frame and you'll need someone to realign the axles after a couple of solid hits with the hammer. Not the same with the truck frame/cross member construction.

Anyway, Here's the post:

Just spoke with BAL/NORCO technician in Elkhart, IN. My concerns/instincts about jacking the NORCO NXG frame were correct. He told me that many users mistakenly treat this frame like other I-beam and box channel chassis, and it is a "mistake" to do so. The frame is designed for ultralights, and it is designed very differently from traditional coach frames. Therefore, it requires some special handling.

The tech told me that the frame should not be engaged with a bottle jack. There is only 1"(+) of a lip to engage the jack (depends on model). He said that the frame's channel depth is not sufficient for jacking, and this will likely bend the frame at the location or potentially cause more structural tweaks and damage to the frame or even the coach's walls.

He told me that when they (NORCO techs) work on the coaches, they locate a crossmember as far away from windows or slide outs as possible; using two floor jacks (one on each side of the coach), they place a support across the coach under the crossmember. He said that he uses a 2x6 for the support under the crossmember. The 2x6 support should extend 4-6" beyond each side of the unit. For instance, an 8' TT would call for a 9'(+/-) support to span the frame and have the protrusion on each end. He also said if you can get a crossmember located near or at an outrigger that is ideal but not necessary.

Once jacked, he said to place jack stands with a decent block (4x4) on them under the wall frame. However, he reiterated several times to place them away from slide outs and windows as much as possible. It is important to place them under as much uninterrupted wall as possible (obvious for strength, integrity, and minimize potential for damage).

An additional reason for the crossmember support engagement is the frame's huck bolt design. It is built using huck bolts rather than welds. The huck bolts are extremely strong, and their strength plays a big part in the NXG frame's ability to be lightweight and made with somewhat narrow C-channel. The flip of that is the frame cannot be handled like a welded I-beam or box frame.

Finally, he told me that jacking directly under the leaf spring mounts on the axle is okay, but it is not best, and it will not work for all jobs. And since the axles are often under a slide out, it is not the best place to put the jack. Our axles are right under our slide out. He is sending me a build sheet for my frame. You can submit your BAL/NORCO model number to get one. I hope this helps. I am thinking a lot more clearly about jacking my ultralight TT off of the ground.

On a side note (for what it's worth), he told me that among their many customers, they rarely have issues with Jayco and Keystone units because the two companies make additional enhancements to the NXG frames and the frames' connections to the rest of the coach. I know Jayco uses extra outriggers and connects/integrates the a-frame inside the chassis. That's good to hear! Safe Happy Jacking!
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