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Old 11-17-2019, 07:44 AM   #1
Vallauer
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Vallauer

I have a 2018 Keystone Cougar 22 RBS. I am having trouble with the electric tongue jack. It blows fuses periodically. It will work fine and then it blows a fuse. I have taken it to the dealership in Grand Rapids and they cannot replicate. They say they have checked wiring from jack to battery all seems fine.
HELP
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:22 AM   #2
flybouy
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I have a 2018 Keystone Cougar 22 RBS. I am having trouble with the electric tongue jack. It blows fuses periodically. It will work fine and then it blows a fuse. I have taken it to the dealership in Grand Rapids and they cannot replicate. They say they have checked wiring from jack to battery all seems fine.
HELP
Do you recall if the fuse blows out under similar conditions? In other words is it when the unit is in a very "nose down" attitude, or only when you are fully extending it, or only in hot weather or wet weather, etc? If you can recall any correlation to a specific condition did you communicate that to the dealer?
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:58 PM   #3
Northofu1
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Is the in line fuse a 30A? Mine was a 20 when I had problems and that came (used) from a dealer.
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Old 11-17-2019, 01:22 PM   #4
Vallauer
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
Do you recall if the fuse blows out under similar conditions? In other words is it when the unit is in a very "nose down" attitude, or only when you are fully extending it, or only in hot weather or wet weather, etc? If you can recall any correlation to a specific condition did you communicate that to the dealer?
It seems they generally blow between it being extended to hook up to truck. Once I then push to drop on hitch it does not work. Or when it’s on when we get to campground and then attempt to raise to detach it is blown
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Old 11-17-2019, 02:29 PM   #5
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It seems they generally blow between it being extended to hook up to truck. Once I then push to drop on hitch it does not work. Or when it’s on when we get to campground and then attempt to raise to detach it is blown
Does it only happen when using the jack on the camper's battery or when it's also connected to shore power?
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Old 11-17-2019, 02:59 PM   #6
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Is it a resettable fuse or a replaceable fuse? If the latter, you know it's not a weak fuse.
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Old 11-17-2019, 03:08 PM   #7
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It happens when RV is on battery not shore power
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Old 11-17-2019, 03:26 PM   #8
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It happens when RV is on battery not shore power
Then I would take note of the battery state of charge. Using a VOM set on DC volts check the battery voltage or better yet pull the battery and have it load tested. If the battery is weak the any load will pull higher amperage. Ohm's law is the formula where the LOWER the voltage the HIGHER the amperage draw for a given resistance (the resistance of the motor's windindings) which is constant.
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Old 11-17-2019, 04:25 PM   #9
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Then I would take note of the battery state of charge. Using a VOM set on DC volts check the battery voltage or better yet pull the battery and have it load tested. If the battery is weak the any load will pull higher amperage. Ohm's law is the formula where the LOWER the voltage the HIGHER the amperage draw for a given resistance (the resistance of the motor's windindings) which is constant.


That’s what I’m thinking...weak battery.
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Old 11-17-2019, 04:37 PM   #10
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That’s what I’m thinking...weak battery.
That's my guess. The battery may have been charged or held a "top" charge. The tech walks out, presses the button up for 2 seconds, then down for 2 seconds then proclaims "all is well" and walks away.
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Old 11-17-2019, 04:42 PM   #11
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That's my guess. The battery may have been charged or held a "top" charge. The tech walks out, presses the button up for 2 seconds, then down for 2 seconds then proclaims "all is well" and walks away.


Your probably more right than wrong, sad but many techs( at least that’s what they call themselves) don’t take the time to perform a proper diagnosis, have the equipment to do so or the training.
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:03 PM   #12
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Your probably more right than wrong, sad but many techs( at least that’s what they call themselves) don’t take the time to perform a proper diagnosis, have the equipment to do so or the training.
I usually avoid this problem by telling the customer, "Show me how it fails" before he leaves.
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:19 PM   #13
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Typical scenario:

Customer brings in unit with concern. Service writer types up a “repair order” with the concern and maybe some information about conditions when it happens.

Tech gets the R/O some days/weeks later, and starts on the unit. Most likely the battery(s) are dead so he plugs it in. Tests the jack and declares “no problem found” or “unable to duplicate customer concern”. Unit is parked out back again and customer is called.

This is where a “good/trained” tech separates him/her self. The trained tech will go back to it a few hours later with a load tester, VOM and maybe even an amp gauge.

Too many shops don’t provide any training, and unless your lucky to have an “old timer” your probably not going to know what you don’t know.

I was blessed to be trained my first 2 years by a tech with 25+ years and my last 5 years were with a tech that has over 30 years.

Add the fact that many are still flat rate and that makes the tech rush to judgment even faster. What’s the answer? I don’t know, but I do know I try to impart my knowledge to the younger guys all the time.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:46 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Typical scenario:

Customer brings in unit with concern. Service writer types up a “repair order” with the concern and maybe some information about conditions when it happens.

Tech gets the R/O some days/weeks later, and starts on the unit. Most likely the battery(s) are dead so he plugs it in. Tests the jack and declares “no problem found” or “unable to duplicate customer concern”. Unit is parked out back again and customer is called.

This is where a “good/trained” tech separates him/her self. The trained tech will go back to it a few hours later with a load tester, VOM and maybe even an amp gauge.

Too many shops don’t provide any training, and unless your lucky to have an “old timer” your probably not going to know what you don’t know.

I was blessed to be trained my first 2 years by a tech with 25+ years and my last 5 years were with a tech that has over 30 years.

Add the fact that many are still flat rate and that makes the tech rush to judgment even faster. What’s the answer? I don’t know, but I do know I try to impart my knowledge to the younger guys all the time.
We need to clone you!
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:19 AM   #15
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I try to impart my knowledge to the younger guys all the time.
And for that WE THANK YOU!

I come from a family of mechanics (of all sorts) so was lucky to learn a lot from an early age. Not everyone has the general knowledge or drive to learn to be the best they can be at their task. Add to that the cut-throat shop rates and you may not get the best of the best RV techs.

It's great when you can pass down knowledge to younger generations who are eager to learn the correct way of troubleshooting/repairs. Even more satisfying to watch them do the work correctly and be proud of it.

I very much appreciate having you (and many other knowledgeable folks) here for advice, and "real world" insider info from the business.
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Old 12-05-2019, 06:21 PM   #16
JYR
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Electric jack

Hi I have owned many travel trailers though out my years , and what you described problem has happened to me numerous times. I feel the problem is you are extending the hitch tongue jack height too high above the limit switch stop therefore blow the fuse for safety reasons. And if it is lowered too low again blows the safety switch. I would try to use a wood block or LEGO type blocks under the tongue jack so you are not extending beyond the safety switch limit. Also you can go back to your dealer and have them install a resettable fuse inline so your not having to refuse fuses if this should happen again. Let me know if this helps your situation. Thanks Jim
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Old 12-10-2019, 06:41 AM   #17
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When I first took delivery of our 5er I could not get the ice maker to work. I could here it cycle but no ice. When it went in for warranty items that were missed in dpi I was told "we're not trained for residential refers, you need Samsung for that". No referral, no schedule for repair, in other words you're SOL.
I didn't think it was the fridge so started trouble shooting myself. Found a "hidden" shut off behind kitchen drawers where it changed from pex to 1/4" water line. When I turned it on I got a bath. The factory had jammed the ferrule in the fitting and their solution was to just turn off the water. A ten minute fix of the connection fixed the ice maker. The problem was factory not Samsung fridge. The real problem was the service manager who is no longer at that dealer. Good riddance. After that I do all my own trouble shooting and most of my own repairs.
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