I have a lot of questions

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 12:27 PM

Seems I've started a bunch of new threads. But even though I'm a seasoned RVer, I find that I'm a little perplexed with my new toy Hauler. 2016, Fuzion 422. Excellent condition.. My issue is with the residential fridge. From all the adds etc, its appears that I should be getting a little more run time on battery power, and I can't figure out why not. It came with 2 marine batteries, which I know suck lol. I replaced them with 4 trojan t-105, and 1 dedicated generator starting battery. Doing a run time test on just the batteries and 1000 watt inverter, it seems my batteries have gone down to 45% in 2 hours. This seems excessive to me.. Perhaps I'm wrong. I was hoping to at least get 6 hours with only the fridge running, as that would keep it running overnight during sleep than I could start the Gennie to recharge. I really don't want to spend anymore money on a solar, so I'm asking everyone: is this normal.. It seems like it's about the same time as I was getting with the Marine batteries at about 200AH. With the Trojans, I've got 450 hours dedicated to the coach.. Could the Inverter be bad and drawing too much power.. I'm a little bit of a loss. Thanks for anyone's help, and please don't suggest Solar etc.. Just looking to see if this is right.

**flybouy** · 12-07-2021, 01:46 PM

It would really help in reading a longer post like this if it were broken up into a couple of paragraphs.

What is the load on the 1K inverter? Four 104 Ahr batteries (416 Ahrs not 450) drawn down to 45% would be using ~228 Ahr. In 2 hrs. If it's only the fridge, was your "test run" conducted by turning on the fridge from a warm condition?

Have you checked and confirmed the correct wireing of the batteries? The four 6 v Trojans should be wired as 2 pairs of series connected batteries connected in parallel and the 12 v generator battery only connected to the generator unless it has an isolator .

**chuckster57** · 12-07-2021, 02:31 PM

How you have the leads to the trailer (inverter) will affect the performance. They need to be at opposite ends of the bank. If you have a DC amp clamp, I would measure the draw at the positive lead from the bank, then start turning things OFF to eliminate any parasitic draws.

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 03:28 PM

I apologize for that.. I should know better. That was a long paragraph.
1. I have 4 Trojan t-105. Each pair is rated at 225AH, making a total of 450 amp
2. The Generator starting battery is just a group 26 car battery with it's own trickle charger, total independent of the coach batteries
I gave it a test today, and after only 2 hours, the coach batteries were down to 45%. The only thing I had running was the inverter and the fridge. It's a WFCO 1000WT pure sine wave inverter, and my fridge which is a Samsung residential and it's the one that came from the factory.
I truly thought I could get more hours from my setup

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 03:29 PM

Problem with turning off things, is I can't seem to find an on off switch to the fridge, and the plug isn't anywhere that I can get to.

Skillet173 · 12-07-2021, 04:09 PM

I used the gfci to shut mine off. Probably not the correct way to go about it, but it works

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 04:14 PM

not a bad idea.. I'll give it a try.. I do realize there will always be a parasitic draw, but 2 hours with a 450ah battery pack just seems excessive.

**flybouy** · 12-07-2021, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeemerJoe

not a bad idea.. I'll give it a try.. I do realize there will always be a parasitic draw, but 2 hours with a 450ah battery pack just seems excessive.

I would have to agree. Other than checking for the obvious wire connections and proper wire size I would look at the paperwork that came with the fridge and look at the running amps and standby amp drawing. Also look at the paperwork for the inverter and see what the overhead dc amps is. I'm sure someone with specific experience eill chime in but it sounds to me that something is amiss.

Skillet173 · 12-07-2021, 04:45 PM

I have a residential in mine too but have zero time using it. Please keep thread updated so I can learn also!!

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 05:06 PM

I was really excited when I found out this rig had a residential fridge. WITH an ice maker, but now am a little concerned. Our yearly trip to Key West often ends up with dry camp. This year it looks like the full month of April.
Although I have an onboard generator, and a small honda to save fuel when I don't need the A/C, I was hoping that the batteries would keep the Fridge working during Quiet hours when I can't use either generators. But 2 to 3 hours won't cut it.

Skillet173 · 12-07-2021, 05:57 PM

Heard ice makers are power hungry thieves. Maybe cut that off first?

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 06:05 PM

I'm not using it. This is totally just the fridge and inverter. Don't have the water pump on or turned on. But good to know.

**sourdough** · 12-07-2021, 06:12 PM

Just something to keep in mind; if you want to boondock, you don't want a res fridge. Unless you want to always carry a genset to run all the time or a $15k solar/battery package so you can go off grid.....a res fridge is not your friend - that's why they have LP/gas models.

Excited to have a res fridge? For us absolutely. FAR better than our RV fridges from the past, but, we don't boondock any longer. I have no interest whatsoever in trying to make boondocking any more than what it should be....which comes with a lot of limitations. Back in the day ice chests and all the ice you could bring along with a lot of dried beef was the ticket. Now we want city conveniences in the outback??

Oh, where's that accuweather report???

**JRTJH** · 12-07-2021, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeemerJoe

not a bad idea.. I'll give it a try.. I do realize there will always be a parasitic draw, but 2 hours with a 450ah battery pack just seems excessive.

There's something more than a 4 amp refrigerator drawing power from that system... Have you, but any chance, checked to be sure the inverter isn't powering the trailer "converter/charger" ??? That would, if the converter is powered on, create a "vicious loop" where the battery is supplying power to the inverter which is supplying power to the converter which is charging the battery that's supplying power to the inverter.... In other words, "the dog's chasing it's tail again"....

While that may not be your "power drain" it does warrant making sure the converter is turned off when the inverter is turned on.....

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 06:21 PM

No.. that's one thing I did check.. when I unplug from shore power, the battery stops charging completely, so that pretty much tells me that the converter is not working.. At least that's how I understand it.
I am wondering if perhaps there is something wrong with the inverter. But have no idea how to check that.. It is running the fridge though.
Are you sure that the fridge only draws 4 amps.. This is a residential fridge.

Javi · 12-07-2021, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeemerJoe

Problem with turning off things, is I can't seem to find an on off switch to the fridge, and the plug isn't anywhere that I can get to.

If it is like the Samsung in my Avalanche the plug is above the fridge in a cabinet. Also, there is a breaker which will kill the shore power to the fridge. However, if the inverter is on the fridge will still be powered. You must cut the inverter off as well.

I do this only when I plan to have the trailer worked on and have cleaned the fridge out completely.

My two series 24 wet cell batteries will keep my fridge cold for at least 4 hours, if the fridge was at temp already.

I've experienced this twice in the past 1-1/2 years due to power outages.

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 06:38 PM

That's the thing, I WANT the inverter to be on and run the fridge when off shore power. Would have wanted it to last thru the night.

Javi · 12-07-2021, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeemerJoe

That's the thing, I WANT the inverter to be on and run the fridge when off shore power. Would have wanted it to last thru the night.

Like I said even my very inadequate series 24 wet cell batteries will power my already cold fridge for at least 4 hours with no problem. Been there done that.. power came back on, batteries recharged.. no harm no foul.

Converter fan kicked on, ran maybe 3 minutes and kicked back off.

Ice maker even dumped ice a couple of times while on the inverter..

You got more problems than a hungry fridge.

BeemerJoe · 12-07-2021, 06:51 PM

I think I'm in agreement.. Will spend some time troubleshooting tomorrow. Problem is, I've always been terrible at "Spark chasing" lol

**JRTJH** · 12-07-2021, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeemerJoe

...
Are you sure that the fridge only draws 4 amps.. This is a residential fridge.

Here's the power label from an 18cuft Samsung residential refrigerator. Amperage rating is 3 amps at 120 VAC. Keep in mind this is for the compressor. If you have door heaters, ice maker, etc that is going to affect the total electrical draw.

ADDED: Keep in mind that this is rated 3 amps at 120VAC. That's 360 watts, which, if drawn from a 12 volt source would be 30 amps at 12VDC.

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