A/C Related, probably a dumb question

Stevensmith2859 · 08-02-2021, 10:15 AM

Ok everyone, wife and I have the 2020 Outback 301ubh. If you look at the floor plan, you see it has a back bedroom and 1/2 bath. That being said, we already had the 2nd A/C put in the front bedroom and it just dumps straight into the room. The RV roof registers are always open and they cannot close. If I were to replace them with Registers that I can close, would that help the main salon AC push more air into the back bedroom? The air that comes out in the back is cold, but there is basically no air flow at all and it gets pretty hot in the back. We have a 22 month old that sleeps back there and we are getting ready to travel from the Baltimore area to Myrtle Beach in about two weeks. In my mind I say if it cant come out in the front, it can only help more air come out in the back. I think I already know the answer, but always like to hear from fellow RVer's.

jasin1 · 08-02-2021, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevensmith2859

Ok everyone, wife and I have the 2020 Outback 301ubh. If you look at the floor plan, you see it has a back bedroom and 1/2 bath. That being said, we already had the 2nd A/C put in the front bedroom and it just dumps straight into the room. The RV roof registers are always open and they cannot close. If I were to replace them with Registers that I can close, would that help the main salon AC push more air into the back bedroom? The air that comes out in the back is cold, but there is basically no air flow at all and it gets pretty hot in the back. We have a 22 month old that sleeps back there and we are getting ready to travel from the Baltimore area to Myrtle Beach in about two weeks. In my mind I say if it cant come out in the front, it can only help more air come out in the back. I think I already know the answer, but always like to hear from fellow RVer's.

Do a search on here about improving airflow…ie taping the connections and gaps at the ductwork.
You have to be careful closing off too many registers because the unit could freeze up.
Try taping some plastic with painters tape over a couple and see the outcome before you invest time and money into replacing
Also there is the rv airflow device and the hillbilly version described on another post that can help airflow at the cost of the instacool feature

jasin1 · 08-02-2021, 10:42 AM

May be able to use something like this as long as the wall cavity is open

wiredgeorge · 08-02-2021, 01:14 PM

Don't know what type ducting or A/C you have but I installed an RVAiflow gizmo in my single 15K BTU A/C lower part and it really increased airflow. In addition, as has been mentioned, since the insides of the ducts are not visible, take them one out and check the HVAC tape job. It will likely not be good and you can retape with HVAC aluminum tape to improve airflow. Fans help. Replace your current vents with those that open/close and rotate to direct and control airflow. Be aware you need to measure your current vents as they come in different sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-...938734&sr=8-18

Stevensmith2859 · 08-03-2021, 05:14 AM

Thank you everyone for the tips!

John&Genny · 08-03-2021, 10:25 AM

Yes, if you get vents you can close off, you can direct more air to the front IF both AC's use the same ducting. We do this in our Avalanche to make it very comfortable in the main living area. We set the bedroom A/C to about 75, close all the vents, and close the door. With the RV Airflow system we installed it really pushes the air through those vents.

Keep in mind, if you do think you want to check out a RV Airflow modification, they are only meant for certain type of AC units.

And like wiredgeorge mention, be sure to take out one of your vents and take some measurements, especially for the cutout diameter and collar length. For example, mine had a 4-3/4" cutout diameter and 1.5" collar length so we had to go with these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FYRYBH...roduct_details

**JRTJH** · 08-03-2021, 05:43 PM

Before you invest in new "closing, directional vents" spend a few dollars and buy a roll of "aluminum duct tape" (the kind with the peel off paper backing). Walk right past the fabric duct tape and "RUN FROM" the "duck tape".....

Then spend a couple hours in your trailer resealing all the ductwork to the outlets where the directional vents are installed. Then open/remove the ceiling panel for your air conditioner and "study the mess of garbage" that's there. Try to decipher where the duct runs originate on the "cold air side" and seal all of that space so the only "cold air" is directed "down the duct"... Next, make certain that the "divider panel" is in place and not "blowing cold air into the hot air return".... I can count the RV air conditioners that have been properly sealed from the factory on one hand. It would take most of the "remaining hairs on my head" to count the ones that were either blowing cold air into the attic space, wasting cool air at every ceiling vent or blowing cold air into the hot air return, recycling the cold air rather than sending it to the trailer vents.....

You might still want to install the closing round vents, or you may find that after properly sealing your A/C system, you'll have enough cool air making its way to the front of the trailer.

wiredgeorge · 08-04-2021, 06:52 AM

We found that adding directional and closing vents were a good upgrade of the cheap non-closing or directional vents originally installed. Our dining table and LazyBoy loveseat have the directional vents pointing in that direction and we can close off vents in the upstairs and shut our door to the upstairs during the day to allow more air into the main cabin. I added the upgrade vents when sealing our ducting using HVAC aluminum tape. If I were to do it again, I would also put the vents in while doing the taping/sealing to avoid pulling the vents a second time since the benefit of the upgraded vents was worth spending a few more bucks. We camp in triple digits regularly so every little bit helps.

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