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Old 10-21-2019, 07:12 AM   #1
Hjelter
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Need help! Road block in winterizing our toy hauler!

This past weekend, my husband and I attempted to winterize our toy hauler by ourselves for the first time. We weren't successful and we need a little guidance.

We opened the faucets inside, the black, gray and all low points to drain any remaining water then closed it up. Pulled out the anode rod from the water heater, drained remaining water from there.

Then, we did the bypass on the water heater. Our couch makes it extremely difficult to do anything with the plumbing or water heater so we didn't attempt to pump the antifreeze into the lines using the pump.

Instead, we poured 3 gallons of antifreeze into the freshwater tank. This is the way it was done the year previously (we had help that time) and it worked fine so we figured we'd do it again.

We went inside to turn on the faucets to get some antifreeze through the lines and into the drains but nothing, just a little air.

Where do we go from here? Did we do something wrong in the first steps or are we just missing a step? We feel clueless after watching video's on Youtube, none of which touch on this issue so I thought I'd see what you all think.


Thank you in advance!

Sincerely,

A pair of newbie's
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:26 AM   #2
flybouy
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There's a few issues in your procedures .
Pouring 3 gal antifreeze in fresh water tank. It may take considerably more than 3 gals for the pump inlet tube in the tank to get covered. Pouring the antifreeze in the tank is wasteful and may "dilute" the antifreeze as most tanks don't "completely" drain as they are square. Any little "off balance" on the tank can create an area of collection.
Using antifreeze in the tank often will create a condition when de-winterizing that makes it difficult or time consuming to flush out the tank and have the water not taste "off".
If your fresh water pump does not have a separate winterizing valve, hose connection then install one, they are very inexpensive.
Hope this helps.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:43 AM   #3
Hjelter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
There's a few issues in your procedures .
Pouring 3 gal antifreeze in fresh water tank. It may take considerably more than 3 gals for the pump inlet tube in the tank to get covered. Pouring the antifreeze in the tank is wasteful and may "dilute" the antifreeze as most tanks don't "completely" drain as they are square. Any little "off balance" on the tank can create an area of collection.
Using antifreeze in the tank often will create a condition when de-winterizing that makes it difficult or time consuming to flush out the tank and have the water not taste "off".
If your fresh water pump does not have a separate winterizing valve, hose connection then install one, they are very inexpensive.
Hope this helps.
Thank you! Trying to figure out why doing it that way the year before (also only used 3 gallons) worked and why it won't this year.

We have a winterization system on our pump but it's such a pain to get to. We have to unscrew the couch from the plywood cover over the water heater to gain access. We saw some video's on Youtube and it looks like most other campers have a piece of plywood you can just slide or pull out to access it. Unfortunately that's not our case.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:58 AM   #4
flybouy
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Originally Posted by Hjelter View Post
Thank you! Trying to figure out why doing it that way the year before (also only used 3 gallons) worked and why it won't this year.

We have a winterization system on our pump but it's such a pain to get to. We have to unscrew the couch from the plywood cover over the water heater to gain access. We saw some video's on Youtube and it looks like most other campers have a piece of plywood you can just slide or pull out to access it. Unfortunately that's not our case.
Sounds like an opportunity for your first modification. Take some pictures, post online asking for suggestions on making an access door or panel for next year.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:34 AM   #5
JRTJH
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... Trying to figure out why doing it that way the year before (also only used 3 gallons) worked and why it won't this year...
My guess is that last year, the trailer was slightly off level to the side where the water pump pick-up is located and this year the trailer is slightly off level to the side where the water pump pick-up is NOT located... With the configuration (shape) of the floor of the fresh water tank, it can easily take 3 or 4 gallons to just put 1/4" of water dispersed on the bottom of the tank. With "not so good luck" if the trailer is leaning 1/2" in the 8' width, to the "off pick-up side" then you might wind up putting 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze in the tank before the pick-up is submerged. Then, again, if the trailer is leaning 1" to the pick-up side, you might find that 1 gallon will submerge the pick-up.

All of that is essentially meaningless if you drained the fresh water tank with the drain port "leaning to the upper side" and have 10 gallons of water remaining in the fresh water tank before pouring in the first gallon of antifreeze... That "unknown amount of water" directly dilutes the antifreeze and depending on the amount of water, could render the antifreeze incapable of protecting your system.... RV "pink stuff" if diluted 50/50 won't protect at the advertised -40F... It won't even protect to +25F.

It's best to not use the "fresh water tank shortcut" unless you KNOW the tank is completely empty, and even then, you'll be dealing with "yecht tasting water" next spring.....
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Old 10-21-2019, 11:25 AM   #6
opienva1
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Look up using Air to winterize it then only use anti freeze in the drains.
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Old 10-21-2019, 11:40 AM   #7
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Look up using Air to winterize it then only use anti freeze in the drains.
Using a compressor to winterize may work well for you in Virginia, but I'd suspect that it's not going to be nearly as effective, and likely not protect the OP's toyhauler in Minnesota, where the mid winter temperatures average -20 or colder for weeks on end. Of course, if you're the lucky type or if you really, REALLY like to spend your evenings at a casino or just like taking chances.......
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Old 10-21-2019, 01:40 PM   #8
DDG
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John is right. I use air and then I do 3 gals. of antifreeze and run it thru the pump. I live in central Minn. and as Minnesotans we know how cold it can get. You have time to find a way to get to the pump and put antifreeze thru the system. If you are going to use air make sure you don't go over 30 psi or you risk blowing out your plumbing lines. I know my son in law just uses air and puts antifreeze in his traps and so far so good. But his luck could run out. I would rather be safe than sorry. DDG
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Old 10-21-2019, 03:35 PM   #9
Hjelter
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Using a compressor to winterize may work well for you in Virginia, but I'd suspect that it's not going to be nearly as effective, and likely not protect the OP's toyhauler in Minnesota, where the mid winter temperatures average -20 or colder for weeks on end. Of course, if you're the lucky type or if you really, REALLY like to spend your evenings at a casino or just like taking chances.......
Yeah my luck certainly isn’t good so I won’t take any risks blowing out the lines with air. At least not in MN as you said.
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Old 10-21-2019, 04:03 PM   #10
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Yeah my luck certainly isn’t good so I won’t take any risks blowing out the lines with air. At least not in MN as you said.
We live in northern Michigan (below the bridge) and it's cold here, but I'd suspect you see temps a bit colder than we do in January, February and March. I wouldn't trust it here and completely understand why you'd be even more hesitant to trust it there !!!!!
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:21 PM   #11
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We don't winterize our rig as we fulltime in it, but a couple weeks ago we winterized our cabin that we recently installed plumbing in. I purchased a small pump from Harbor Freight that can be connected to water hoses, and using a short hose into the jug, and connected to the water line into the cabin, was able to pump antifreeze throughout the entire plumbing system. This could also be done in an RV. Just connect a hose from the pump to the city water connection in the RV, and the suction line from the pump into the antifreeze, and you can have your rig winterized in a matter of minutes. I was really surprised how quick it was to do our cabin. It does help to have one person at the pump and the other running around opening and closing faucets.

12 volt pump: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-vol...ump-63324.html

120 volt pump: https://www.harborfreight.com/110-hp...ump-63317.html
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:49 AM   #12
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hello hjelter: Hope you got winterized now. The small amount of extra time it takes to access the pump will pay BIG dividends in the spring when you do not have to replace broken plastic pluming parts, which you discover on your first outing miles from a supply store. Does it sound like I have had this experience?

This year I blew out my system and then pumped pink stiff through the lines.
Had one mishap. First I drained all the lines as best I could, then connected the air to the system to blow out the lines. Only thing is I FORGOT to re-open a spigot! Fortunately I stopped pumping air and went around to the back to see how much water had been blown out the outside shower and discovered the closed spigot. I opened it to a BLAST of air and water. Pressured checked that system for sure. No damage found so I once again escaped an RV disaster of my own making.
Hope your winterization proceeded OK after reading all this.

Oak
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Old 10-22-2019, 05:13 AM   #13
flybouy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
We don't winterize our rig as we fulltime in it, but a couple weeks ago we winterized our cabin that we recently installed plumbing in. I purchased a small pump from Harbor Freight that can be connected to water hoses, and using a short hose into the jug, and connected to the water line into the cabin, was able to pump antifreeze throughout the entire plumbing system. This could also be done in an RV. Just connect a hose from the pump to the city water connection in the RV, and the suction line from the pump into the antifreeze, and you can have your rig winterized in a matter of minutes. I was really surprised how quick it was to do our cabin. It does help to have one person at the pump and the other running around opening and closing faucets.

12 volt pump: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-vol...ump-63324.html

120 volt pump: https://www.harborfreight.com/110-hp...ump-63317.html
The only issue with using your cabin methodology is I assume your cabin doesn't have a water pump that's susceptible to freezing. Winterizing via the city water connection does not place antifreeze in the fresh water pump.
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Old 10-22-2019, 07:33 AM   #14
curtthegreat
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What type and what year is your toy hauler? I can't believe they made it that difficult (Although, I guess I wouldn't be too surprised they did). Maybe there is something you/we are missing. I just did our 43 ft hauler with a half bath in the garage plus the washer hook up back there, kitchen sink, and full bath up stairs, and used 1 and a half gallons. Like everyone else, I would never put the pink stuff in my fresh water tank.
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Old 10-22-2019, 07:43 AM   #15
flybouy
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hello hjelter: Hope you got winterized now. The small amount of extra time it takes to access the pump will pay BIG dividends in the spring when you do not have to replace broken plastic pluming parts, which you discover on your first outing miles from a supply store. Does it sound like I have had this experience?

This year I blew out my system and then pumped pink stiff through the lines.
Had one mishap. First I drained all the lines as best I could, then connected the air to the system to blow out the lines. Only thing is I FORGOT to re-open a spigot! Fortunately I stopped pumping air and went around to the back to see how much water had been blown out the outside shower and discovered the closed spigot. I opened it to a BLAST of air and water. Pressured checked that system for sure. No damage found so I once again escaped an RV disaster of my own making.
Hope your winterization proceeded OK after reading all this.

Oak
If your air compressor doesn't have a pressure regulator on the outlet then you could add one from HF for $5 https://www.harborfreight.com/150-ps...uge-68223.html
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:25 AM   #16
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Did the air method on our older trailer years ago but then forgot to step on the flush valve to drain the toilet. Costly mistake. Now we take the 5th wheel to Arizona for the winter ;-). still need to winterise because we don't leave until mid November and back early April. As others mentioned show some pictures and plumb in a way to either winterise with new access or better way to use what you already have. BTW we unscrewed our sofa MANY years ago and have replaced it several times without screwing it back down. Furniture wise we still strap the swivel chairs in but the rest is left the way it stands. Even with some violent quick turns to avoid hitting stupid drivers that cut you off the furniture never moved.
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:46 AM   #17
mjsibe
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Winterizing

I drain everything then
Hot water heater in by pass
Blow out the lines .
I use a clean 5 gallon bucket with a dedicated submersible pump to pump antifreeze freeze through the system
Open last valve cold then hot till the antifreeze comes out
Repeat with each valve till every thing is antifreeze
The traps will get filled too
The pump also gets enough antifreeze in the fresh tank
Mine sits level when I do this
In the spring I flush every thing
Sanitize the system & good to go.
Takes about 4 gallons of antifreeze
31 foot rear kitchen tt
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:17 PM   #18
pstltaz
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I went to harbor freight got an low cost pump. Then went to wal mart and got 2 gallons of rv anti freezer. Was done. Im twenty minutes.

Bob
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:03 AM   #19
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We've always blown ours out and just antifreeze the pea traps. North Central Montana has unforgiving winters (hitting 0 tonight already) and have never had an issue. Just make sure you hit every component in your system (especially the water pump!)
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