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Old 09-19-2019, 04:46 AM   #1
jacketslacker
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No fridge on 20amp service?

So maybe I'm just doing something wrong, but does the fridge on a 2018 Springdale Mini 1750RD not run when you've only got 20amp service? It seems to run fine when we're at campgrounds and plugged into the 30amp, but at my house it looks like it doesn't work. Am I missing something or is the trailer actually doing that? I can run the propane if that's the case, just wondering what's going on for if we ever stay over at somewhere that doesn't have the full service.
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Old 09-19-2019, 05:35 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacketslacker View Post
So maybe I'm just doing something wrong, but does the fridge on a 2018 Springdale Mini 1750RD not run when you've only got 20amp service? It seems to run fine when we're at campgrounds and plugged into the 30amp, but at my house it looks like it doesn't work. Am I missing something or is the trailer actually doing that? I can run the propane if that's the case, just wondering what's going on for if we ever stay over at somewhere that doesn't have the full service.
I run mine at home on a 20A circuit all the time with no problem at all. Is there 120VAC at the outlet you're plugged into? If not, maybe a GFCI outlet is tripped or maybe the main breaker for that circuit is tripped?
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Old 09-19-2019, 05:40 AM   #3
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If the trailer is stored level, then it sounds like you had a "low voltage condition" and possibly blew one of the fuses on the control board on the back of the refrigerator. Running a trailer on a 15 amp or 20 amp supply is "possible" under limited conditions. If, as an example, you plug into 20 amps, turn on the refrigerator and the converter is charging the battery, you're likely to be fairly close to the maximum amp draw. Then, if the water heater happens to "cycle on", the amperage demand would be at the upper edge of maximum, possibly not activate the circuit breaker. As the demand increases, the voltage drops, amperage rises and you may have exceeded the control board fuse rating.

When on a 20 amp supply, you'll need to reduce your consumption significantly. If you turn on the A/C, you'll need to turn off virtually everything else. All of us with a 30 amp trailer supply have learned to "limit demand". It's even more critical when on a 20 amp supply.

At any rate, check the fuses on the control board that's located on the back of the refrigerator behind the black plastic box in the lower left corner. UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BEFORE REMOVING THE PLASTIC COVER OVER THE CONTROL BOARD.....
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Old 09-19-2019, 05:52 AM   #4
jacketslacker
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That's just it, nothing appears tripped and it works fine at the campsite on 30 amp. One of those mysteries of life I guess.
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:07 AM   #5
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Silly question, but are you sure there is power to the 20a plug? Is it clear in your trailer that you are actually connected to shore power? TV works? Microwave works? etc...
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:21 AM   #6
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Yeah we run the AC when we're getting it ready and organized for a trip. Now it's also usually still tied into the truck as well but I don't see that being an issue. I might dig out the manual and see if it's got anything there to maybe shine some light on it.



On an semi-related note: the reason I ask about all this is because it takes FOREVER to get the gas to ignite to run it. I know people have said light the stove first, but it still takes like 10-15 minutes to get it to take. Highly annoying.
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:59 AM   #7
sourdough
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As others have said, I run mine on 20A every time we get ready for a trip. I do not however run anything else but the converter and a couple of lights (led).

Make sure the trailer is level and that you have both 120vac and 12vdc to the fridge.
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Old 09-19-2019, 08:28 AM   #8
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I'd suggest you check the outlet at home for proper wiring and check the 30a to 15 a adapter that I assume you're using. The fridge and the converter doesn't know the difference between 30a and 20 amp. If however, you are using a 16 gauge extension cord then the voltage will drop with a heavy amperage draw. Google ohm's law for an explanation on that.
Get an outlet tester and check your 20a outlet . The tester costs <$10 and can save you a lot of grief.
As for trouble getting the fridge to light the gas that's another issue providing your 12 dc source to the fridge is good.
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