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Old 05-22-2017, 09:06 AM   #1
Joe Stanley
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House plug installation 110/20 amp circuit to 50 amp plug

Question_ I want to wire a 110/20 amp circuit to a RV 50 amp plug. I only intend to run lights and outside kitchen fridge off of circuit. Does anyone know if it will work to wire one leg of receptacle box ( X ) or do I need to make a jumper between ( X and Y) for this purpose? I already have a 50 amp box that was inexpensive. Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:09 AM   #2
Javi
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just get a 110 to 50amp dog bone http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55168-Po.../dp/B00HRHWHNW
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi View Post
just get a 110 to 50amp dogbone..
Bingo. I have one in my toolbox, if all I have to do is open a slide or turn on a light for repairs it makes no sense to drag that bulky shore cord out. A quality heavy extension cord is recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14222...igtail+adapter
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:16 AM   #4
sourdough
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Use the dogbone. It would probably cost more for the RV plug than the dogbone and it's way overkill to pull out the 50a cable for lights.
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Old 05-22-2017, 10:52 AM   #5
Outback 325BH
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But to explain what that dogbone is doing...

Both hots of the 50 AMP receptacle in that dogbone are connected, so the 15 or 20 amp circuit that you plug into will energize both sides of your 50 AMP breaker panel in the camper. You will be limited to the house circuit's amps, however all circuits in the camper will have power available.

This is how 30=>50 dogbones work as well.

50=>30 dogbones work a little differently, however I don't want to hijack the thread any more than I already have.


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Old 05-22-2017, 12:48 PM   #6
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I use the 50 amp to 15 amp, 2 foot long dog bone for shore power when we're at home, with a 50 foot 10/2 (with ground) extension cord from an outbuilding wired for 20amps GFI. It's a lot less expensive than wiring for 50 amps just for between trip storage, and off season. My dog bone even has a red led built in to verify power at the rig. Handy for a quick check.

I have more than enough power to run the converter/charger, 12v lighting, and refrigerator. I've even run the main A/C without any noticeable "metered" voltage drop while working inside or loading for a trip in hot weather.

Good Luck!
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:50 PM   #7
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It is not wise, and not to any code to install an outlet and not have it wired to it's rated capacity. It will work to install an outlet with the proper wiring, whether it is a 15 amp or 20 amp outlet, just so long as it has the proper size cable going to it, #14 Romex for the 15 amp outlet, or #12 Romex for the 20 amp outlet. This will also allow you to use this same outlet for other than RV purposes. Your voltage target is not 110 volts, but is actually 120 volts, which is the national standard.
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
It is not wise, and not to any code to install an outlet and not have it wired to it's rated capacity. It will work to install an outlet with the proper wiring, whether it is a 15 amp or 20 amp outlet, just so long as it has the proper size cable going to it, #14 Romex for the 15 amp outlet, or #12 Romex for the 20 amp outlet. This will also allow you to use this same outlet for other than RV purposes. Your voltage target is not 110 volts, but is actually 120 volts, which is the national standard.
In most modern houses (new within the last 15-20 years) you are actually going to find 125VAC from hot to neutral....so approaching 250VAC phase to phase.
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:20 AM   #9
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I've got two UPS power conditioners with data displays on them (protecting my 'puters, routers, monitors and comm systems here at the house), and both are showing 124v AC. Well, one flips between 124 and 125 about every half second...
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