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07-05-2014, 09:28 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Prattville, AL
Posts: 3
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Interior A/C Ceiling Vent Register Replacement
My Montana High Country 338DB (2013) came with unlouvered (cannot be closed) a/c vent registers. The problem, of course, is a freezing camper on one end and a hot camper on the other. Of note, we have not yet installed a unit in the front master bedroom.
I see that louvered registers seem to be easily purchased (why the heck didn't Keystone just install them at the factory!!!)
My question is: How do I get the old ones out? They appear to be BRD Rotaire, no vanity ring, just three recessed tabs. I read posts saying the tabs can be depressed with a small flat screwdriver but my efforts to do this are denting the plastic without "releasing" the registers, and I am worried about breaking whatever piece they clip into.
Has anybody successfully replaced these or have any advice? A video or pictures would be really great!
Thanks in advance from this Newby.
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07-05-2014, 10:15 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,995
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I just put my fingertips between the rotating part and the stationary part on each side of one of the tabs and pry it off with my fingertips. We've removed every one of ours to reseal/retape the ductwork.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-05-2014, 10:21 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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My advice is to not use them. In order to get air to the ceiling registers, you have to close the vents on the base of the AC. With no air coming out of those vents, the unit needs all the air flow it gets from all of the ceiling vents. If you were able to close even one, you would likely create enough of an airflow restriction that the unit would ice up. The same applies with running the AC on low fan speed for extended periods. It's not a good practice and I don't know why they even have a low fan speed on a unit that is so sensitive to air flow.
You will get a lot more bang for your buck(snd labor) by dropping the lower cover and making sure the plenum box is properly taped with no leakage and checking for the same around where the holes were cut in the duct for the ceiling registers.
__________________
2011 Outback 277RL
2013 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.2L
Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
Armed Infidel
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07-09-2014, 01:42 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Prattville, AL
Posts: 3
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Got 'em off, but now what?
Thank you Bob and John for your rapid replies. John, I did just as you said and they popped right off, appreciate it.
Bob, decided to take your advice and not install the closeable vents. I did read multiple posts during my searches about people pulling their units and finding horribly done duct work. I was happy to find that this was not the case for me. My problem I think is just a horribly placed a/c unit. The AC unit was placed almost all the way to the rear of this 37 foot camper and one of two main ducts feeds two vents in a small bedroom just feet from the unit. This is where my kids have been freezing to death. The other main duct (same diameter) feeds FIVE vents in the kitchen/living room, bathroom and master bedroom. And the doggone thermostat is in the hall to the bathroom up front. So, I thought by shutting off or partially closing a vent in the rear bedroom I could push more cold air to the other five vents. I was just thinking in simple physics, more distance equals more resistance to flow.
We are leaving for three days of camping starting tom in the hot Alabama South. I am going to experiment with some partial blocking of the vents since now I can easily remove them. Will let you know if I accomplish anything other than freezing up the unit! Thanks again.
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07-09-2014, 01:57 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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I had too much AC air flow at my bathroom vent and not enough tonthe front bedroom. I removed the bathroom vent cover and placed black duct tape neatly over half of the exposed vent modeling and popped the vent cover back on.
I now have less flow in the bathroom and increased flow in the bedroom. No icing up of the back unit for me.
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07-19-2014, 04:04 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Prattville, AL
Posts: 3
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Experiment Success!
Ended up doing the same thing, blocked one of the vents in the freezing back room with a piece of cardboard. First tried tape but got a horrible north wind gale type noise from the vent. There was a noticeable increase in air from the second vent but definitely a better distribution throughout the camper.
No doubt this camper should have shipped with second ac unit installed in front master bedroom. I think that will fix the problem, especially in the South Alabama summer. The unit ran non-stop during the daytime but kept the interior between 74 and 76 with no freeze up.
Guess I should start saving my change for the second unit.
Appreciate everyone's input.
John K
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07-22-2014, 07:55 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NM
Posts: 26
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I understand the concern about the a/c freezing up if blocking too much exiting airflow, but still would like to know a good source to purchase roof registers with closeable vents. Can anybody make a suggestion on a source for these?
Steve
__________________
2012 Fuzion 302
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07-28-2014, 04:13 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tampa Bay Florida
Posts: 32
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07-29-2014, 06:54 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NM
Posts: 26
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Thanks, Carrnutt. Those ought to work well.
Steve
__________________
2012 Fuzion 302
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07-29-2014, 05:06 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tampa Bay Florida
Posts: 32
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You're welcome. And thank you for getting me thinking about my similar situation. I haven't tried it out yet (trailer is having slide toppers installed), but have a second A/C in the bedroom as well as a central vent. Never even thought about probably wanting / needing to be able to close the ducted A/C vent, until your post. LOL
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