Gel coat/fiberglass oxidation removal

[Hobbi-Juan-Kanobee]

Hi guys- I just picked up an 06 Hobbi HB200. It's red and its been outside since new so the oxidation has taken its toll on the gel coat finish. Now its dull and pink . I want to make things right. Has anyone had any luck with oxidation removal? I would prefer to remove the decals since they're in bad shape and get it polished up, but if necessary, I wouldn't be opposed to painting it. Any help would be appreciated.

[Festus2]

You might want to try a marine product by Davis called FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover). It comes in a 1 pt container in gel form and costs around $15. If you have access to a nearby marine supply place, have a look at it. It might work on the oxidation on your gel coat.

When you remove the decals, you will probably notice a "ghost" imprint of the shape of the decal that remains on the gelcoat. Fading and peeling decals are not uncommon problems with some of the earlier RV's; and unfortunately, with some of the newer ones as well.

If you can't get rid of the ghost decal imprint, your idea of a new paint job might be something to consider.

[bsmith0404]

Depending on how bad it really is, you could look at Marine 31 heavy cut (may not need the heavy cut). This link is an example of what can be done with this product. Post #7 really shows the results as well as the products/tools/steps used. I doubt your RV is as bad as this boat.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ore-after.html

[Hobbi-Juan-Kanobee]

Good info guys. I've seen a couple of videos on Marine 31. I hadn't heard of FSR but I'll see if I can't find either of these products and let you know how they work.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by Hobbi-Juan-Kanobee

Good info guys. I've seen a couple of videos on Marine 31. I hadn't heard of FSR but I'll see if I can't find either of these products and let you know how they work.

Marine 31 is a product now owned by Palm Beach Motoring Group (Autogeek) that is the only place I know of to buy it. Keep in mind that your gel coat is only so thick and once it is removed it's gone. Oxidation removal doesn't take a lot off, but you don't want to go any more aggressive than needed to get the desired result.

I personally use Pinnacle XMT 360 on my RV. It's a one step product with diminishing abrasive technology (DAT) polish. Basically it starts out course to remove imperfections and the abrasives diminish as you work it so they start to become more of a fine finish polish. If your oxidation isn't too bad, I would try this type of product first to see if you can get the results you are looking for.....could save you a lot of time. I dread having to do more than 1 step polishing on a vehicle as big as an RV.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Didn't think that the gel-coats oxidized like the older lacquers and enamels
did. But we all learn something each day I reckon. So, if it's oxidizing why
not get some rubbing compound like we used to do in the better times?

hankaye

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by hankaye

Howdy All;

Didn't think that the gel-coats oxidized like the older lacquers and enamels
did. But we all learn something each day I reckon. So, if it's oxidizing why
not get some rubbing compound like we used to do in the better times?

hankaye

Hankaye,

You must like walking around with your arm in a sling after working harder than needed

The Marine 31 heavy cut is like a rubbing compound, but designed to use with a DA polisher. The DAT products like the XMT 360 I mentioned start out like a mild rubbing compound, but break down to finish like a polish, also designed to be applied with a DA. You could apply them by hand, but your arm cannot generate enough speed/heat to break down the abrasives (unless you can move your arm at about 600 rpm). BTW, the DA (dual action) polishers do not create enough heat to "burn" through a gel or clear coat like a rotary polisher can so they are very safe even for a beginner. A good one to start with is the porter cable with 4.5"-5" foam pads. I prefer an white lake country pad for a one step product, but with bad oxidation you would probably need an orange pad (the orange is a bit courser, but will still finish nice without a need for a second step). To do a normal sized RV takes about 8-10 pads. A beginner would probably need 10 since they tend to load up the pads with too much polish which clogs the cells and reduces the cutting ability. The other mistake it to not use enough pads. Pads will load up with the gel coat that is being removed in the polishing process, reducing their ability to cut. A good rule of thumb, break the RV up into 3 equal parts on each side and use a new pad for each, then use a different pad for each front and rear cap.

BTW, putting a good polish or sealer on the gel coat will protect it from the sun, but they don't last long. I personally polish mine twice a year, but in reality it should probably be done 3-4 times. It's just too damn much work!

[Hobbi-Juan-Kanobee]

Good feedback guys. Good to know that I won't find the Marine product in the store. I'll check for the Pinnacle.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by Hobbi-Juan-Kanobee

Good feedback guys. Good to know that I won't find the Marine product in the store. I'll check for the Pinnacle.

Pinnacle is another PMB product. Again, Autogeek.com is the only place I'm aware of to buy it. Trust me, I'm not here to promote Autogeek, but they do specialize in these types of products and have a lot of different types at reasonable prices. Just don't ask me how much I have spent there!! I do auto detailing as a hobby and have a garage shelf full of their products. I personally use Black Fire for the cars, but they get polished and then waxed with carnauba wax. The XMT 360 is a great one step product, that's why I use it for the RV. I have spent over 18 hours doing a 4 step compounding, polishing, jeweling, and waxing on my wife's Camaro. Couldn't even imaging how long all of that could take on a 40' RV.

[Lawdogs]

Sweeeeet!!!!!!!!!

[fredetteb]

Originally Posted by Festus2

You might want to try a marine product by Davis called FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover). It comes in a 1 pt container in gel form and costs around $15. If you have access to a nearby marine supply place, have a look at it. It might work on the oxidation on your gel coat.

When you remove the decals, you will probably notice a "ghost" imprint of the shape of the decal that remains on the gelcoat. Fading and peeling decals are not uncommon problems with some of the earlier RV's; and unfortunately, with some of the newer ones as well.

If you can't get rid of the ghost decal imprint, your idea of a new paint job might be something to consider.

I have a similar problem with my '09 Raptor. The decals are horrid and peeling badly. I am going to remove them, but if I can't get rid of the "ghosts" what type of paint should be used on a fiberglass/gelcoat camper?

[J&A]

fredetteb,

I wonder, if you're going to replace the decals with the same exact pattern/design, then the "ghosts" would help you align the new ones over the "ghosts", wouldn't they?

And you shouldn't be able to see "ghosts" anymore, except for some "paranormal" reason.

[Festus2]

I'm not familiar enough with repainting so I can't be of much help to you. I'd suggest going to an RV dealership who has done this before or to an automotive repair facility and see what they would recommend.

[fredetteb]

Originally Posted by J&A

fredetteb,

I wonder, if you're going to replace the decals with the same exact pattern/design, then the "ghosts" would help you align the new ones over the "ghosts", wouldn't they?

And you shouldn't be able to see "ghosts" anymore, except for some "paranormal" reason.

Right now my plan is to go NEKKED I may replace the large decal on the front cap, but the sides and rear will be plain. All this really depends on how well I can get the originals off. I'm going to try a small test area first, if it turns out well then I will do the others.

I'm thinking that once the decals are off, using the buffing compounds mentioned will take care of things.

[bsmith0404]

There is a product called "HT-64 Remove All" by a company called Hi-Temp that works pretty good for removing decals/glue residue. Works better than anything I've found over the counter. You can buy it by the quart or gallon. It'll still be a long tedious process and not one I would want to take on.

Here is a link for them.

http://www.hitempinc.com/id79.html

[J&A]

Originally Posted by fredetteb

Right now my plan is to go NEKKED I may replace the large decal on the front cap, but the sides and rear will be plain. All this really depends on how well I can get the originals off. I'm going to try a small test area first, if it turns out well then I will do the others.

I'm thinking that once the decals are off, using the buffing compounds mentioned will take care of things.

Sounds like a lot of work but no doubt it will look great when done. As for the paint, I'm not sure about what type is being used on the sides, if any, because some are thin and flexible laminates. Painting the outside walls would certainly add some weight. I just had my faded front cap painted by the dealer (paid by Keystone under warranty) with automotive paint and clear coat. New decals too. It looks great! Posting update and photos in the Service & Maintenance thread soon, if interested.

Would love to hear what you find out about painting the sides. Good luck!

[gearhead]

Cut & pasted from my fishing forum. Not a clue if it works.

I used the Zep High Traffic Floor Finish.
This process is for older RVs that have lost their shine and no longer respond to conventional wax.
Restoring the finish of an older RV using ZHTFF
Materials:
-Zep High traffic floor finish(Step 3) (available at Home Depot)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white, or blue ( non scratch)
-Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
-Latex gloves
Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the ZHTFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.
Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.
Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).
Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZHTFFto peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!
Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZHTFF well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZHTFF (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZHTFF is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of ZHTFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat. You can also use a spray bottle to spray on camper and then wipe. I found this very useful when on the ladder.
That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!
*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.
Things (I learned) to keep in mind:
-Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.
-Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily.
-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZHTFF is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZHTFF dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they
start to “set up”.
-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZHTFF across the graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZHTFF to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.
-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The ZHTFF acrylic coating can sort of “glue” them closed.
Following these directions will give you a beautiful shine that will last and you will never have to wax again. Some have reported that once a year they wash the camper with dawn dish soap and apply a refresher coat to continue the shine.

[Hobbi-Juan-Kanobee]

I've done some looking around at different products but still haven't had any real success. I tried an oxidation remover/color restorer from a local rv dealer, Bar Keepers Friend, powdered cleanser, 220 grit sand paper, polishing compound, Maguire' s 49 each by hand and with a foam pad on a buffer. The best result was with the cleanser and a scrubbing pad which cut through most of the oxidation but it would take a lot of scrubbing. I'm looking at trying the Marine 31 next. I'm sceptical about this product that I came across on youtube called Leprechaun Magic which of course looks too good to be true but I like the idea. Has anyone either heard of it or tried it?

[chuckster57]

I used "Flitz" paste on my '97 Jayco in 2008. Made it look new.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by Hobbi-Juan-Kanobee

I've done some looking around at different products but still haven't had any real success. I tried an oxidation remover/color restorer from a local rv dealer, Bar Keepers Friend, powdered cleanser, 220 grit sand paper, polishing compound, Maguire' s 49 each by hand and with a foam pad on a buffer. The best result was with the cleanser and a scrubbing pad which cut through most of the oxidation but it would take a lot of scrubbing. I'm looking at trying the Marine 31 next. I'm sceptical about this product that I came across on youtube called Leprechaun Magic which of course looks too good to be true but I like the idea. Has anyone either heard of it or tried it?

Wipe on products don't work, they are a cover up and it will look good for a bit, but before long you're right back to where you started. You can make the black trip on your car look great with peanut butter, but after a few car washes or rain it is back to where you started. The only way to remove the oxidation is with an abrasive. What type of foam pad did you use? Apparently your oxidation is worse than I thought. Get the heavy cut compound from marine 31 and yellow cutting pads. The combination will give you the most cut, both from the compound and from the pad. Set your DA at speed 6 and move your arms slowly. Work an area about 2' x 2' about 6 criss-crossing passes. Again slow arm movement, should take between 5-10 seconds to make one pass across the 2' pattern. Overlap each pass by half of the pad. If it's as bad as you are making it sound, you may have to do each section more than once, but that is why you use a DA and not your arm. The heavy cut will leave some maring and make the finish look a bit hazy, next you will have to polish with a polishing compound and an orange pad. You may be able to get away with a white pad and a one step like I mentioned before, but doubtful after a heavy cut with a yellow pad. Finally seal it with a quality sealer or one step such as the XMT 360, or wax it with a good carnauba. The sealer will last longer, about 6 months, the wax will last 60-90 days (if your lucky), but it tends to give a nicer finish. If you really want to go crazy, you can use a wool pad instead of the foam and a rotary polisher instead of the DA, but I DO NOT recommend this without some training, practice and experience.