Hayes brake controller behavior confuses me...

[DennisT]

I ran a post on this a year ago and it helped. However, I just put new tires on our Springdale 266RL and they did the bearings, etc. Brake shoes, drums, bearings and seals are all new.

I have a Hayes Energizer III 81741B brake controller I got about 5 years ago for my car trailer. It will lock up the car trailer wheels easily. I can tell how it's working with no trouble.

With my TT, (which is about 5,000 pounds heavier), today I couldn't tell if the TT's brakes were working well or not. I did some 5 to 20 mph testing out on our rural road. I, "think," the TT's brakes come on roughly with the pickup. At first, when applying the brakes in the pickup, the truck,"twisted," ever so slightly; then after a few applications, resumed straight stopping. We are just now getting the TT out to use, so there is probably a little rust, etc., on the drum surfaces....probably caused the above temporary behavior.

However, on our large gravel area here at our old farmstead, I can run about 5 mph and move the squeeze lever on the controller, (which is now set to maximum), and I get a little drag from the TT but hardly enough to stop the whole outfit.

I'm running a '97 Dodge Cummins with 4-wheel anti-locks. Hayes controller with proper pigtail plugged right in under the dash. I understand newer trucks, "broadcast," the anti-lock function to the TT's brakes too, but I'm not sure my old truck is that up-to-date. I do have an exhaust brake on my manual trans truck too.

Right now, my controller is set to max on the dial, I think I'm getting some braking, but it's sure not dazzling.

We leave in 10 days for a trip. I'm just not sure what this is doing and I don't have the experience to know what I should expect.

??

Dennis

[ctpd814]

By what you have posted, it sounds like the brakes are activating when you step on the pedal, but do not have enough stopping power. If this is the case, it sounds like the trailer brakes are out of adjustment. Jack up one of the trailer wheels and spin it. Have someone activate the trailer brakes while the wheel is spinning. You should be able to hear the brake activate. The wheel should come to a instant stop and you should not be able to move it until the brake is released. If you don't hear the brake activate and the wheel is free spinning, there is a problem with braking system on the trailer. If you hear the brake activate, but the wheel does not stop instantly or you can still turn it with your your hand, it is out of adjustment.

[DennisT]

ct:

Now that's a good post. Dang. Could have done all that this morning at the tire store.

I think you are right.

One question: when the TT is sitting on the ground and I'm listening close to one tire/wheel and someone in the truck applies the brake, would I hear brake activation with the wheel still on the ground? If so, what does activation sound like? Click, etc.????

That might be one way to at least, "hear," if each wheel's brake is, "live." Next step would be your jack-up-and-spin test.

Being really green about RV's, I bought this TT at a big dealer in Liberty Lake, WA., late last summer. I knew I'd pay 20%+ more there than, say, private sale. But I had no experience in evaluating TT's and no one to go with me looking. I got service records from that dealer that showed it coming in from original owners as trade in with, "brakes not working and disconnected." Service records showed all new hubs, bearings, and brakes installed and reconnected. And, indeed, this morning all looked new. Now I'm wondering if they did all that and never adjusted the brakes.....just sent it down the road.

It is all beginning to get under my skin....

Dennis

Dennis

[86GT2r]

When the brakes are activated, you normally can hear a humming noise from the wheel. The noise will not indicate proper brake adjustment, only that power is being applied.

[DennisT]

86:
Thank you. What you said is meaningful because now if I can hear a humming from each wheel I know I have a circuit. If I don't hear it, I can guess I have a brake wiring circuit that has gone open. A wire could go open or a coil could go open. Either should kill the hum.

I know my shoes are like new. If I hear a hum at each wheel and I adjust the brakes up, I have a good chance that all will be well.

Dennis

[jsmith948]

Just an additional thought - new brakes need to be 'burnished' in. This info is either in the generic Keystone manual or the Dexter manual. It involves making a series of hard, low speed stops. Too lengthly to post here; but, if you don't have the manual, you can go online and get it.

[ctpd814]

You may hear a hum or a click or both. The hum is power to the brakes. The click is the magnet grabbing the inside of the drum.

I found a video that may help. He is kind of long winded but gives you some tips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KdGKGMv1Qs

Hope this helps.

[DennisT]

My tire store owed me a favor so I went back there and they jacked up each side. Front axle wheels made no effort to stop. He found a poorly connected wire underneath that had disconnected; reconnected that and now all wheels stop immediately when the squeeze lever is actuated. Did it on all four wheels one at a time with tires in the air. Then they adjusted shoes up some as they found they needed it.

However, with controller gain set to max and on gravel,TT will still not lock up wheels. I can feel brakes come on but it is a gradual sensation of braking.

I think I'm OK after all this was done. Am also wondering that, when traveling and braking more vigorously when needed, if the, "swing weight," or whatever that is in the controller that must be set vertically, might add more voltage for braking.

Thanks for all the input,
Dennis