Turning Radius with Larger Trailer

aehjr · 07-29-2013, 11:44 AM

I'm currently towing a 26' trailer (Viewfinder V24FK) and looking to upgrade to a trailer that is 35' long (Fuzion 300). My question is how does the longer trailer affect the path the towed trailer traces behind the tow vehicle?

The reason for my question is my driveway has a 90 degree turn with various obstacles that I either cannot move or can only move at high expense ($$$). There is only about a foot of clearance between the trailer awning and an electric pole on the inside of the turn when I pull the current trailer out the driveway. The Fuzion is a foot wider than the current trailer and 9' longer; I'm worried that I may not be able to get the new trailer in and out of my driveway.

Would appreciate any insights anyone might be able to provide on how the larger trailer would track compared to the current one.

Javi · 07-29-2013, 11:58 AM

To be exact you would need to know the difference in distance from ball to center of axles and the difference in overhang from center of axles to rear bumper..

But I don't need math to tell you it ain't gonna fit.

Festus2 · 07-29-2013, 12:25 PM

Basically, the longer the TT the larger the turning radius that will be required. As you pointed out, the Fuzion is not only 9' longer but 1' wider. The combination of these two will certainly provide a challenge to get it into your driveway and especially around a 90 degree turn.

Are you certain that the overall length - including hitch, bumper, etc., - is 35' or would you also have to include those to get its real length?

Having only a foot clearance between your shorter and narrower Viewfinder doesn't sound like much additional room to squeeze your Fuzion by but .........

It would be nice if you had a friend who has a similar sized unit to "experiment" to see if his RV could get in and out.

Let us know how you make out.

aehjr · 07-29-2013, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Festus2

Are you certain that the overall length - including hitch, bumper, etc., - is 35' or would you also have to include those to get its real length?

It would be nice if you had a friend who has a similar sized unit to "experiment" to see if his RV could get in and out.

Let us know how you make out.

Thanks... The 35' length (34' 8" to be exact) is what is quoted on the Keystone website so I am guessing that number is pretty close.

I've been trying to think of someone who has a trailer that size but all the folks I know who camp have 5th wheels.

I'm meeting today with one of my neighbors in hopes of convincing him to let me widen the driveway on the outside radius. Unless he agrees to a fairly substantial widening, it won't be enough.

Widening the driveway on the inside radius requires me to pay the electric company to move a power pole ($5000-$10,000) AND convincing my other neighbor to let me move a section of fence on the corner of his property. Not good odds on either one of those options...

I'll let you know how it turns out.

aehjr · 07-29-2013, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi

To be exact you would need to know the difference in distance from ball to center of axles and the difference in overhang from center of axles to rear bumper..

But I don't need math to tell you it ain't gonna fit.

Javi - I can get those numbers from my trailer and approximate them from the floorplan diagram for the Fuzion. Once I have those numbers, how do I "crunch them" to know what the difference in track will be?

Thanks!

Festus2 · 07-29-2013, 01:32 PM

While there may be a lot of merit in what Javi is suggesting --- working it out on paper and doing the math - but will it work in the real world? Be a shame for you to buy the unit then find out it won't make it --- even though on paper it would or should.

440justin · 07-29-2013, 05:26 PM

Here is an option that might be less than making the drive way wider.

http://parkit360.ca/

Andymon · 07-29-2013, 05:40 PM

I really wish I could help but I didn't pay a lot of attention in algebra class.

bigcitypopo · 07-29-2013, 06:45 PM

I think this calls for the "geek" in the man to come out.. Build a scale diagram... And play cars with it...

MarkS · 07-29-2013, 07:32 PM

You could just rent a space in a storage yard. Much cheaper than moving a power pole.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

**JRTJH** · 07-29-2013, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marks

you could just rent a space in a storage yard. Much cheaper than moving a power pole.

Sent from my ipad using tapatalk hd

amen !!!!!

Trent McCain · 07-30-2013, 08:18 AM

Can you attack from a different angle? I own/operate a small trucking company, so I always make it a habit if possible, not back on my "blind side" Afew years ago we came home from a weekend trip in the dark, I couldn't see very well, and the wife/kids aren't the best with directions either. Needless to say after 3 trys, I finally gave in and parked the rig in the street for the night. The next morning, due to the truck already facing south in the street, I decided to try and back it on my blind side, and hit it on the first shot. We have a privacy fence on the south of our drive and the "curb side" of the 5th is 2 ft from it when parked. This allows the "road side" slide to be deployed, and still park a vehicle beside in the driveway. Granted, daylight helped, and we don't have any obsticales in the way, but it made all the difference in the world. Might be worth a look

Trent

aehjr · 07-30-2013, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 440justin

Here is an option that might be less than making the drive way wider.

http://parkit360.ca/

This looks intriguing. Anyone here have any experience with using it? And yes, it would be WAY less expensive.

Agree with all the folks who mentioned renting a storage space. We did that when we lived in Virginia; when we moved to Colorado and were able to store the trailer at home, we got spoiled. Will just have to get used to heading out on trips via the storage lot again.

f6bits · 07-30-2013, 04:41 PM

I like the math approach. I'd measure it all out, then diagram it on grid paper and cut out a trailer using the same grid paper. That'll at least show you if it can physically slide around the corner.

labs4life · 07-30-2013, 04:43 PM

The storage unit keeps on coming versus the parking rig. You break even from a cost stand point plus the added convenience factor. I would definitely look into that before the storage route if it was an option from an initial cost perspective!

twstdpear · 07-30-2013, 06:09 PM

That Parkit360 is currently $1600 for the 11000lb model. It's a really neat idea, but expensive. Given the choice between paying for it and keeping the trailer at home versus a storage lot, I'd be getting the dolly.

When we had our driveway completely dug out and replaced early last year due to other remodeling we were doing, I took the opportunity to add a spur down the side of the house to park our trailer. The new setup requires me to back in at about a 45 degree angle and cut hard when the trailer wheels get to the side of the house. Our previous Hybrid (21' box, 25.5' total) was easy to get in the spot the first try. Our Cougar 28RBS is about 7' longer and it's a bit trickier to back in and not go off-track, since there's less tolerance. I'm regularly pulling back out and trying again, even after something like eight trips now. It's surprising how much of a difference that extra 7' makes.

aehjr · 08-29-2013, 12:16 PM

Our driveway (in addition to the obstacles) has some notable elevation change too in the area of the corner. When I get ready to pursue this, I'll have to speak to someone at Parkit to figure out how much weight the big one can handle under those conditions.
We are picking up the new trailer this weekend. For storage, we are going to use an outdoor storage lot near the house for now. Once I figure out the difference in turning radius and moving it around in close quarters, I'll have a feel for what the options will be on my property.

hankaye · 08-30-2013, 07:42 AM

aehjr, Howdy;

Have you thought about installing a hitch to the front of your tow vehicle?
Think I mentioned this in another thread somewhere in here.
The storage places that 'Park it for you', will have some sort of rig that has
the ball (pivot point), closer to the turning wheels of the pushing vehicle,
some places use small farm tractors, larger riding mowers or forklifts
What this does is allow you to turn in an extremely tight radius. Almost
pivot the RV or what ever on a one foot spot. You will need spotters as you
will be very close to the front of the RV. Ever wonder how the folks at those
storage yards get the RV's so close together ... ???
Takes a bit of getting used to but once you get it , ... ya got it!
You will, of course, be limited by the length of the RV from front inside axel
to the rear most outside corner when making tight turns.

hank

aehjr · 08-30-2013, 06:15 PM

I didn't think of that. That might do the trick. I'll investigate the options for a hitch on the front of my truck.

Thanks!

**JRTJH** · 08-30-2013, 06:44 PM

If you're going to install a receiver on the front of your tow vehicle, doublecheck the front axle rating and the actual weight, add the weight of the receiver (about 75 lbs) and then add the tongue weight of your RV. Granted you won't be travelling long distances, but you will probably be very close if not over your GAWR. if you're a "little over" no big deal, but you can easily add enough weight to be 750 pounds or more over the limit. That may not be something you want to challenge, even if it's only a few feet of "high torque" steering.

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